Archive through July 12, 2009

[kmcconaughey]

Matt G., that's just a spacer, it should fit inside the hole that is in the handle #4, where it pivots on the mounting bolt, the mounting bolt then bottoms out on the spacer leaving the PTO engagement handle free to pivot.. I have one somewhere in my shed for my 125 that I have disassembled. I can take a photo tomorrow but it's really just a simple spacer. Think short piece of tubing, no threads.

Matt S., you might want to give credit for the photo of the Original. That was Mike Masheris's "M&W" Original, it now belongs to William DeTurck (unless he's sold it). Not sure who took the photo, but it looks like something that Hank Will would have composed. Credit should be given to the person that took the photo unless you took it...

 

[mstetar]

yah i talked to William DeTurck a while back and he said i could use the pics for whatever i wanted but whenever i get the site all said and done i plan on havig a "credits" page where every pic will have ownership claims and thanks so thanks kraig because i actually thought of that as i was typing this post....

 

[csanderson]

Mark G- You might try the "Cub Cadet haulers" section, on the contents page. There's a place there to ask if anyone is going your way, and could help you out. Worth a try.

 

[rpalmer]

Ryan D Wilke,

How do I determine if I need to polarize it?

The manual states that anytime you break the electrical connection. Example removing a battery cable.

What are the symptoms of it NOT being polarized?

Not charging or a component that you just burned out for no apparent reason.

Your direction are correct. The thing about them though is that today many voltage regulators have the Gen. terminal under the regulator and not sticking out the side along with the Bat. and Field.

 

[mgonitzke]

Richard/Ryan-

I'm pretty sure the manual says you only need to repolarize the s/g when you do something major, i.e. install a new regulator or remove/reinstall an existing one. It makes no sense to me why you'd have to repolarize after changing the battery.

 

[rpalmer]

Matt G.,

The first thing you do when changing the S/G or V/R is to disconnect the battery cable. And that should be the negative first and then the positive. Then in reverse reconnecting. This is SOP

 

[dfrisk]

CLINT - I worked in a large shop that made food & chemical processing equipment for about 6 yrs. There's even a couple parts I bought in the rocket fuel mixer that mixes the propellent for the solid rocket boosters of the Space Shuttle. We machined LOTS of stainless, Stellites, Hastalloy, even a little Titanium. Worst thing to machine were sand castings from a foundry here in Wisconsin that was the flighting sections for the big mixers like the rccket fuel mixer. They were two and a half percent carbon, not the typical .25%, or .3%, or .4% carbon like normal machinable materials. Stuff was something over 70 Rockwell C. We didn't turn many chips off those castings, some weighed 250-400#, just a lot of grinding & wire EDM.

I'm not a big fan of stainless for many applications but the material You used will make a good driveshaft for Your hydro that will last forever! And Your 100% correct about machining SS, big cuts at low speed is the only way.

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD P. - re repolarizing the V/R or S/G. I disconnect the positive battery cable every time I park My CC 72 for more than an hour or so. I never repolarize it and it charges fine. I think repolarization is only required when breaking the circuit between the S/G and V/R.

 

[landreo]

I was a member years ago who decided to get more involved in Cub Cadets. I have been gone for several years. I don't claim to be an expert in anything but have the most knowledge on electrical things. I would be interested to know what manual states to repolarize the S/G. I have not seen that. Eitherway, unless I am missing something, the S/G should not have to be repolarized. Removing the battery or regulator should not change the residual magnetism which is what repolarizing restores. When you repolarize a generator,not a S/G, you connect the A terminal to the battery. When you hit the starter key on a S/G the A terminal is connected to the battery to spin the S/G. So everytime you crank the S/G you effectively repolarize. Starting the tractor should repolarize and renew the residual magnetism.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I have to agree with Larry. I've always heard that Cub Cadets had "self polarizing" systems. If you hook everything up correctly it "self polarizes" the first time you crank it over.

Larry, BTW, welcome back!