Archive through July 04, 2013

[asmith]

I've got a problem with the 71 that I can't figure out. I put a new wiring harness on it during the refurb, have the wiring diagram, followed all the connections(four times now)should be right? Here's the problem, it starts without the brake/clutch pedal being depressed and won't start when it's pressed in. Where did I go wrong? I would like to get this fixed before I take it to the Lanesville Heritage weekend in Sept. I've got a problem with creeper, but I'm going to have to live with it until after the show. I can get it in low range(not in the right position) and nothing else, guessing something slipped out.

 

[dtanner]

Alex

( Here's the problem, it starts without the brake/clutch pedal being depressed and won't start when it's pressed in)

Reverse the wires on the safety switch and you should be good.

 

[fcurrier]

Don: I don't think so. That's an in-line switch:

I'm betting on a problem with the start switch wiring.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - it's "like a pebble in my shoe" - been there, done that and got the T-shirt - as long as you have good quality shoes for your CC chores that pebble will eventually round over and smooth out so you'll hardly notice. Dennis mentioned it's an older style head so you could look into the tin used on a 147, and earlier 12hp units, but I don't recall seeing any with high bosses. I believe the early 10hp in 100's had high boss heads but I don't think the tin cover on those would work. It's a situation where 1 pic is worth 1,000's.

Alex S - let us know if Don T's solution fixes your starting problem. My initial reaction was ya, it makes sense - but then on second thoughts it's sort a "huh, how can that work?", since when the switch fails you just place a jumper across the wire connector and the tractor will start with the foot pedal depressed or not depressed. Sure got me wondering.

Under Edit - ole Frank beat me to it. I agree either the wiring to the start switch is the problem, or Alex may have a starting switch with the B, S, I terminals in different locations.

 

[jjsmith]

Sounds to me like the switch could be faulty or the wrong switch. Opening the circuit when it should be closing it or grounding out.

 

[asmith]

Don T. That's the first thing I thought of and tried, not the solution. Then looking at the diagram I noticed the solenoid was backwards and flipped it over, not it. I will look at the connector on the start switch again but I'm sure the wire code matched everything correctly.

 

[fcurrier]

Jeremiah: A recent quote (or paraphrase) from Charlie: "I prefer the high boss head". Maybe he'll chime in on the subject again.

 

[rrschmitt]

Alex S.

I think Joseph S. is on to something with your safety switch. It may have been replace at some point with the wrong type of switch. Remove the wire connector on the safety switch and take a continuity tester or Ohm meter and see if you have continuity across the two terminals in the pedal up position and no continuity with the pedal in the start position. If so, then you have the wrong safety switch. The correct switch will be "open" (no continuity) when the pedal is in the up position and "closed" when the pedal is depressed. If that's not it then you have got something wired or a short somewhere.

 

[mfrade]

AAAAAaaahhhhh J.C., didn't know you were chasing for 100% tractor. In that case I'd go for the Helicoil repair.. or if you want/don't mind a slight "cheat", do as Dennis did and swap over the plug size. Easy to do and not many would ever know even when looking at it! Plus that'll save your tin and airflow! Let us know you're decision.

 

[dtanner]

Harry ; FranK

I jut wanted to see if the safety switch is shorted . that is why I ask him to reverse the wiring .Next thing would be to jump that switch with a wire and then get a new one. The safety switch is only a great think for operators that don`t know how things work or young people that might operate the Cub at some point. If you think safety, replace the bad switch. The problem might go back to his ignition switch. BTDT ,jump the switch , go to the show and then make it correct "IF" it bothers you that it does not work as it should .

One more thing;Alex get out your meeter and check out the safety switch .

 

[danderson]

Harry-I know it's not a 14 but my 122 has a high boss head. The tin does not fit a low boss head. I tried.

 

[asmith]

Joe, Ron & Frank
That's exactly what the problem was, wrong switch. Now if I could get the creeper gear out without messing up the paint job I would be a happy man.

 

[dtanner]

Alex Smith

Lets talk Creeper ! did you check to see that the handle would even make the shift .

I understand some small tweaks might have to be done. I think there are more than "one" handle and some extension that was necessary. Do you know you have the correct hard ware?

 

[asmith]

Don T.
Yes I have the right handle for the creeper. Short handle and I can get it to move both forward and to the rear all the way. When I pull it back to the LO position it will actually stall the motor. When forward to HI I have nothing unless I stop halfway and jimmy it a little I can get it in LO and that's all I have. Before I put it in the tractor I had to replace the pin on the fork.

 

[dtanner]

Alex Smith

a locked gear can only be the shifting forks; You might have to replace one fork.

 

[digger]

Alex S.
You say you replaced the pin.
The pin that holds the yoke can only stick up above the shift lever nor more that 1/8".
If it does, it rubs on the slide that engages all the gears.
Also, when you changed the pin, was there any wear at all on the yoke itself?

 

[fcurrier]

Gotta love a pin on deck:
OK, Dad, I'm up for it.

We knew we could do it!

I guess I did this to show Terry that a pin on deck is a wonderful thing to use. If someone can post a pic of one being clogged I'd like to see it.

 

[asmith]

Charlie,
I do recall the pin being long, but I did shorten it because it rubbed. As for the yoke I don't remember, it was probably two years ago when I put it in and I stopped on the project when my brother passed. Now I'm working the bugs out and know I'll have to split it again.

 

[digger]

Alex S.
Before you remove it.
Get under the machine and move the handle back and forth and see if the detent arm nub lands dead center of the dimples in the creeper.
That will tell you if it's rubbing or not and also if the yoke is worn, it will go past the dimples to some degree.

 

[thoffman]

Have any of you ever used the dash decal for the 86-169 or QL series?? Looks like it would be a b--ch to put on <u>and</u> how well do they stick on that textured surface??