Archive through July 03, 2008

[jschlipp]

Thanks Ron for the info. good luck with your 169--I see Q/A but wanted more info

PAINT. color calls for 483B but no current reference for that. does any know how different is this color compared to the 483? darker or lighter...just curious
Suggestions about Low ash oil use

 

[tsmoker]

Kraig,

Yes you can sand and repaint. Just don't sand back to metal or you will have to prime again.

 

[mstetar]

I saw a pic somewhere of a PTO generator attachment for a 100 anyone know anything about it? I would be intrested in buying one

 

[gtatchell]

Matthew Stetar - KentuckyKen & Digger both posted pics & info on May 4th, 2007, of a Pincor unit manufactured by Pioneer Gen-E-Motor of Chicago, but I can't work out how to put their pics here.

 

[lhinds]

Kraig; You can sand out the bad places in the paint and repaint. Just a slow process. You are doing a good looking job on the parts.I know what you mean about buying tools and leave them laying in the tool box. I bought the double pin tool from Ky. Ken and waited 6 months to use it. Works very good. Thanks for all the pictures.
Luther

 

[dgallagher]

Does anyone have a good method of removing the hydro handle from a 129? Thanks

 

[rbedell]

James S:

The is NO difference in the shade of paint color between #483 and #483B. The only difference is that #483B has a "rust inhibitor" in the formula.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Todd, Tom, Luther, thanks!

David G., if the setscrew is out the best way to remove a stuck hydro handle it to tap (may have to hit it pretty good, but start out lightly) it farther on with a hammer to break the "bond" between the cast handle and the steel splined shaft. Be SURE to protect the finish of the handle with a piece of wood or leather and/or use a rubber mallet. Once you break it loose it should wriggle up and off. Note, I learned this trick from Art Aytay.

 

[bmcmeen]

We stopped at an interesting antique store yesterday in Chenoa, IL while on the way to El Paso. Figured I'd pickup some paint...

 

[jbliler]

Kraig, You are having too much fun! Glad seeing the photos is easier now.

 

[jbliler]

Bryan, nice score! Have a quart can to match it. Does yours list the lead content in the paint? The yellow was a bit toxic by todays standards.

 

[bmcmeen]

Jerry B. -

Nope, no mention of how deadly it is

The reason why the place was so interesting is that about a quarter of the interior and a bit of the outside was used to display the owner's tractors:

 

[jbliler]

WOW those junk /antque stores are a lot of fun now and then. The ones that are full of guy stuff are rare.

 

[bmcmeen]

Jerry B. -

Believe it or not, the term is "Mantiques"

While we were in back, he fired up his orchard in the store and his friend borrowed it to drive into town.

 

[rrschmitt]

David G,

Give Kraig's and Art's method a try on your hydro lever first. On my 169 rebuild, the lever was really stuck tight from years of setting outside by the PO. I ended up removing the lower attachment bolts that support the hydro control shaft to the frame, and then used a big punch and hammer to "pull" the shaft out of the lever and dash pedistal by hitting on the lower control arm that is welded to the shaft. I was initially afraid that the fiberglass dash panel might be damaged by the hydro lever but it came through fine.

 

[mmiller]

Kraig,
Nice work on the OCC. Your pics have inspired me to get back on #4861, which I started restoring 2 years ago this month and haven't touched in a year!

 

[etifft]

I have a 1650. The steering has become a little sloppy. A lot of play in the steering wheel until the wheels turn.

Can someone tell me what I should look at to attempt to correct some of this slop?

Thanks in advance for the help.....

Ed

 

[scolson]

Where's a good place to buy new tires for a 123?

 

[jmitchell]

Man O Man..I got a doozie of a electrical problem with a circa 69-70 Cub 126.

This machine has started faithfully from cold with very little choke and ran great with no electrical issues that I know of..The charge indicator gauge has worked fine, showing more charge rate right after start-up, and then moves back left to just past the center of it's dial range tapering off as the battery recovers and is recharged, from the initial current draw-down from starting the engine.

OK. I recently had a new clutch installed. Long story short, the guy who did the clutch job said he found a loose/disconnected wire at the voltage regulator and reconnected it. He never mentioned what color wire and I never thought to ask. Personally I never noticed a disconnected wire before, but then again, maybe I was not looking very close either, due to the fact the machine started and charged fine..So this is where the mystery begins. Last Saturday after work, I started the tractor, it was charging and running fine, and the voltage meter showed the charge tapering off as normal. I ran it for maybe an hour and happened to look down at the volt meter and seen it was pegged to the Positive side of gauge. I throttled the engine back, got no drop in charge rate and then decided to shut the key off and stop the engine. It shut down and I looked under the hood and found nothing looking out of the ordinary. ..So I thought I'd restart the engine and take the machine back to the garage..When I turned the key on..I got no movement from the volt meter and no reaction at all from the starter/generator..

I've check the wiring to the voltage regulator and it appears to be correct. I had a very loose connection on solenoid on the battery side. I tightened that up. Still no reaction at the volt meter or the S/G. I swapped out the S/G for a known good one and still nothing..

If any of you guys have any ideas as to what to check and how, Please do let me know as this it driving me nuts and my grass is growing like mad!

Thanks so much for any help or advice.

John Mitchell
Cecilia. Ky.

 

[thoffman]

Bryan,
Would that be Don Corrie's(sp) place????