Archive through January 28, 2015

[ecaye]

I will keep that in mind again thank you for your help hydro Harry.

 

[mbrennan]

I have two older units. A 127 narrow and a 128 wide with a rebuild motor. I was wondering if any of you all use Mobil I in your motors and what weight?

 

[dfrisk]

MIKE B. People HATE to discuss brands of motor oil because too many alternate opinions on what's best.

But, yes, many people here use 10W-30 Mobil 1.

 

[digger]

Mike B.
Didn't we JUST discuss oil on the last page!
Like right after you posted!

 

[nbextermueller]

Milling a rod and adding a bearing does NOT make it weaker. It adds alot of life to both the rod and the crank. We do it to nearly every pulling engine we build. If we can run a milled stock rod to 6000rpm pulling a 3000lb sled, surely it will be fine running 3600rpm throwing snow and spinning a mower.

It's just like D Tanner said, it's all in the oil. Keep it properly lubed and it will run forever milled or not.

 

[dtanner]

Nic Bextermueller

thanks for your comment. I wonder if an oil light bearing would work in a Cub engine ? I have install them in electric motors and have got 18 years out of a furnace 3/4 hp blower . seems the stock bearing will only last four years .

 

[dtanner]

matt moredick

If you are luck and know a good machinist to turn your crank and then make an insert for the rod to crank for the difference . It might be the best move since Harry say`s the rods are hard to find and I bet costly.

Marlin Homrighausen

I think he report back that the control valve had moved (became loose) so full movement of the lever was not possible. he did align and tighten it and it is working properly.

 

[dkirk]

So many good engine questions I can't help but jump in...

Don T., Oilight bearing material is a sintered bronze and is totally unsuitable for a crankpin bearing in an engine as loads are much too high for this material to work properly.

Bearing inserts in Kohler rods work well and there is no strength reduction in the critical area, which is in the beam section, located at the CG of the rod.

I advocate the use of full synthetic oil in air-cooled engines based on the experience I had working at Tecumseh products. Mobil 1 or Amsoil 10W-30 is ideal for use year-round. High temperatures encountered in air-cooled engines cause conventional oils to oxidize rapidly and viscosity increases. Full synthetics have much better high temperature stability, lasting longer and providing consistent lubrication.

 

[rkelm]

David, Is it ok to switch from conventional oil to synthetic at any point without a rebuild?

 

[fcurrier]

Rodney: My take on an answer: I switched to full synthetic (Castrol Edge)in our Jeep at about 168,000 miles. After using dino oil for many years it was a leap of faith, believe me. I fully expected to see oil running out the tailpipe. Not so! No appreciable oil use. Once my stash of 30w dino oil is gone I'll use full synthetic in everything. The writeup here comparing the molecules in synthetic to the molecules in dino re-enforced my decision.

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