Archive through January 25, 2005

[scollins]

Unrelated note to previous posting-- Is there a block or oil pan heater for these kohler engines? The tractor had some real problems trying to start when it was real cold out. If so, how well do they work? And is it worth the $$$ to buy and install?

Seth

 

[digger]

Tom R.
At least they didn't tell you like someone told me a long time ago!!!!
He said " Change the damn condensor stupid!"

 

[scollins]

Dave-- Plan on using the loader mainly for moving snow. In the summer remove the loader and run the deck.

Seth

 

[bmcmeen]

Betsy -

Possible? Anything's possible. Likely? Probably not. If it was loose enough to leak it probably would've fallen out by now.

BTW, all required gaskets and seals are still available from Cub Cadet.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Seth, what works best for cold weather starting (for me anyway) is a magnetic heater (should be readily available at auto stores) that you place on the rear differential. This heats up the Hy-Tran making it easier for the engine to turn over. Rememeber the engine is directly connected to the hydro pump via the driveshaft. When you are turning the engine over the pump is moving that cold thick Hy-Tran. BTW, for proper credit I should state that David Schmidt told me about this trick.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on January 25, 2005)

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[sblunier]

Dave K. & Tom

Subject: IH 3pt/sleeve hitch

I specifically asked about the # of drawbar bolts because an IH sleeve hitch will NOT correctly fit an AL rear end casting. MOST people believe that the lighter casting in the lower portion of the late model AL rear ends is not up to the task of heavy sleeve hitch loads/usage.

Yes, the lift parts will fit just fine (possible interference issues with the dip stick tube and the upper casting), but the lower drawbar bracket will be an issue for fit and possibly strength if you have an AL rear end casting.

(Message edited by sblunier on January 25, 2005)

 

[dkirk]

Sunday snowthrowing experience was quite fun. Got 1.5 hours of quality time on the 1250 with QA42A performing admirably. The "snow dunes" averaged around 2 feet in height. Halfway through the job I heard a whalathump and saw a rubber dog toy launch about 20 feet into the air. Inspection showed no damage to impeller nor dog toy. Was driving back to garage after finishing and noticed a small track of snow that I missed. Idled engine down, engaged auger, and no auger rotation. Drive sprocket pin sheared. Timing could not have been more convenient.

First year I ran this thrower, I sheared the original spirol pin. Replaced it with a mild steel clevis pin. This lasted for 5 seasons. Think I'll refit with clevis pin again as it's much easier to change.

It was +5 degrees F (at the tractor)when engine was started that Sunday morning. Cranked through only two compression strokes and fired right up, thanks to Mobil 1 10W-30, Harbor Freight Battery Tender, and (of course) the PointSaver. Tractor and engine performed perfectly.

When employed at Mercury Marine, we tested all the popular carburetor and fuel injector cleaners available. The best (by far) was Regaine, manufactured by Gumout. Works like a chemical carburetor overhaul. Available at Target and most automotive equipment stores. Go easy on the mix as it'll eat hell out of the bowl gasket - follow the directions on bottle.

 

[tturner]

When I try to start my hydro in the cold I just hit the hydro release. I know that that is a terrible idea, but the transmission is terrible to begin with so I really am not hurting anything. I will be putting a manual transmission under it this summer. Go ahead and give me heck for this. Also, I know that you are saying that it doesn't help, but it really does run cooler. My head doesn't have the paint burnt off like most heads do. So nobody else run stuff in their gas?

 

[wcompton]

Tyler-
You're really not doing anything by hitting the release. When the hydro's in neutral or when you're on the release valves, the charge pump is still pumping and making pressure.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tyler T., FAQ Entry #20

 

[pdorow]

D. Kirk

That Mobile 1 is great stuff,no problem starting!

 

[dkirk]

Paul,

I agree, and you can use use the 10W-30 year-round.

 

[lbuttke]

Dave Kemp,
Thanks for the info on the pump, I will be running it of the front PTO wit a short V belt.
I have to waite until the pump arrives to design the bracket to mount it.
I also still need to gather other needed parts like a oil reserve tank, cylinders, dual control valve, hoses, ect. but hopefully by the time summer gets here I will have all the parts and have the loader built,for I got a big project comming up this summer and need a loader to do it with. Aint no way I am going to shovel that much dirt.

 

[moreilly]

Hi, its the new kid again with little questions.
I broke the fuse for the PTO and the markings are so worn It's tough to read them does BUSS NDL 10 sound right?
I had to put a new spark plug in it and it did'nt feel right, so I took it real easy. Then I found out it was an aluminum head. Are you seasoned vet's using a toque wrench or going by feel? And do you shim the spark plug to point the electrode in a certain direction
I had a little trouble getting around on the snow with the snow blower on,does more wieght help or are chains a much needed?
Any imput would help, thanks

 

[jhillegass]

Jim P.

On that gear box and keyway problem... I assume you know what the inside of the case and parts look like (sounds like you've been there a time or two). If it would help, I can take some pictures of my stuff thats apart and laying on my workbench and post them later.

 

[thoffman]

Have any of you guys seen the "split" wheel weights for the 12" front IH Cub wheels? PIX?

 

[tcbusch]

Seth,
When I built the one arm loader for the 147 I was facing the same issues of wanting to run all of the possible attachments. It is possible with some imagination. But you will need to fabricate custom brackets. Dave K made some custom brackets for the loader mutt that looked like they mounted on the side of the frame as well.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Scott Urchel....I'm tryin' to get in contact with you. Call me.

 

[dreid]

I'm embarassed to say that it has been over two decades since I left my family farm (returning occasionally to help out) but with that lapse in time I've forgotten a lot of the daily nitty gritty details of stuff. For David Kirk -- having just broken your shear pin, and you said "mild steel clevis pin" had lasted five years, can you tell me what size, length and where you will(did) find such a piece? If I go to a Farm and Fleet or an auto supply store would they have such? Remember my manual for the snow thrower is really crappy, and I can't see any hint of a shear pin placement, so I'm not sure what your's looks like, or how the thing gets held in place on the rapidly spinning driveshaft. Any chance you could take a picture of yours and post it?