Charlie, did you fix that somehow? Or did you buy a new shaft?
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Archive through January 25, 2005
- Thread starter scollins
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CC Specialties fired me off a new shaft. I dint have a good welder at the time or a lathe. but for what it cost, it would not have been worth my time to fix it.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Dave P....
i used POR15 on my blower, i just wire brushed real good, wiped it down and swabbed it on. per directions, when it was tacky, i put implement enamel primer and paint on it, and that's it. i ran it all last winter w/o any issues
i used POR15 on my blower, i just wire brushed real good, wiped it down and swabbed it on. per directions, when it was tacky, i put implement enamel primer and paint on it, and that's it. i ran it all last winter w/o any issues
Scott: You're in Marcellus with that cool Fairlane, yes? Did you put the graphite paint on over the POR? I've used that stuff before on my MG, it's really great stuff. I've been grindin on that SOB auger all week, then I remembered the POR15! Dave
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- "Big" Steve Blunier, Roanoke, IL
Guys A good lub for sealed or plugged gearboxes is special grease used in the gearboxes of 2200 CaseIHseries cornheads. It is runny grease so it will flow into the bearing. Also Rhino makes a lub for there brushcutter gearbox that is very simular.Both seems to lub very well and stays in the gearbox. My 2 cents.
Kraig,
I just got in from hooking up the thrower and doing some test runs/tweeking. Just before I signed out I saw that item frim McMaster.com on page 1045. Think I goting to have my brother have a couple sent to his work, where they get stuff sent there every day.
I think you could load it up with Neversnease and then put a piece of tubing (like gas line) over it.
I just got in from hooking up the thrower and doing some test runs/tweeking. Just before I signed out I saw that item frim McMaster.com on page 1045. Think I goting to have my brother have a couple sent to his work, where they get stuff sent there every day.
I think you could load it up with Neversnease and then put a piece of tubing (like gas line) over it.
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- "Big" Steve Blunier, Roanoke, IL
Jim One of the reasons the snapring fails is that the driveshaft is not sliding in and out causing excessive force on snapring.
I was hoping fix the box in place, but thinking I am better off removing and doing a complete tear down. Make sure no chunks of key stock floating around.
I had this apart 6 years ago, should have not reused the 30 yr old snap rings. Shaft, gears, bearings were in good shape at the time.
Box was packed with grease, most of which was not doing much, just siting in the corners. Replaced with 90w gear lub. I think I read in manual that what is to be used, not sure though.
I had this apart 6 years ago, should have not reused the 30 yr old snap rings. Shaft, gears, bearings were in good shape at the time.
Box was packed with grease, most of which was not doing much, just siting in the corners. Replaced with 90w gear lub. I think I read in manual that what is to be used, not sure though.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
My thrower has 90wt. in a "grease" gear box...I like the idea of oil getting to all of the bearings etc. (dry grease killed the first gearbox).
In the future I will probably go with the corn head grease for ease of checking/maint. (you need to tip the thrower up to check on 90wt.
)
In the future I will probably go with the corn head grease for ease of checking/maint. (you need to tip the thrower up to check on 90wt.
I've used POR 15 in the past. It works really good. I did have some rust form under it though. If you want to paint it all you have to do is sand the glossy finish off then primer and paint. Was thinking about doing the same with my blower this summer... If I have time.
Bryan,
The "what do you put in your gearbox" discussion is what I was looking for in my original post. I see that a few members have answered the question today. My concerns about the grease turning hard has been confirmed. When I said you didn't answer my question I was referring to the specific weight of the fluid. There is a gray line where oil stops and grease starts. I was slightly interested in what was in the manual but more interested in what others have found works the best.
I am an Automation Consultant by trade and get my fair share of questions from customers and colleagues that are in the manual. I understand your frustration.
I am used to having phone conversions to discuss things. I am new to using a forum to discuss things. Sometimes I don't ask the question that will give me the type of answer I looking for. I like to be quick and to the point. This isn't the first time this approach has failed on this site. I think you might have pointed it out when I posted an indirect question a while ago. I guess this will be a learning process for me. Maybe I can take a few hints from Dave K. He seams to be way detailed in his posts.
BTW,
I went down to the IH dealer today and they recommended EP GEAR GREASE. It comes in a quart bottle just like 90W gear oil. Its around the same consistency as bar chain oil. This should be thin enough to flow and thick enough not to leak.
Thanks for your time,
The "what do you put in your gearbox" discussion is what I was looking for in my original post. I see that a few members have answered the question today. My concerns about the grease turning hard has been confirmed. When I said you didn't answer my question I was referring to the specific weight of the fluid. There is a gray line where oil stops and grease starts. I was slightly interested in what was in the manual but more interested in what others have found works the best.
I am an Automation Consultant by trade and get my fair share of questions from customers and colleagues that are in the manual. I understand your frustration.
I am used to having phone conversions to discuss things. I am new to using a forum to discuss things. Sometimes I don't ask the question that will give me the type of answer I looking for. I like to be quick and to the point. This isn't the first time this approach has failed on this site. I think you might have pointed it out when I posted an indirect question a while ago. I guess this will be a learning process for me. Maybe I can take a few hints from Dave K. He seams to be way detailed in his posts.
BTW,
I went down to the IH dealer today and they recommended EP GEAR GREASE. It comes in a quart bottle just like 90W gear oil. Its around the same consistency as bar chain oil. This should be thin enough to flow and thick enough not to leak.
Thanks for your time,
Jim- there MAY have been nothing wrong with the 6-year-old snapring... you might just have gotten it installed backwards...
For those who don't know... snaprings have TWO faces... the sharp face, and the rounded face. Look REALLY close... if you install a snapring backwards, thrust against the sharp face will cause the rounded face to pop the snapring off the shaft (or ID, whichever type). Many don't realize this, and go through lots of grief with snaprings.
Always install the snapring so that the SHARP edge faces AWAY from the thrust... and if you've installed on backwards, or had one pop off, look at the groove really close- make sure it's clean, and squared off... once one gets 'ejected', it rounds the groove and increases propensity for ejecting it again later... even when installed the right way.
Terry- I'll take that as a compliment, although some probably consider it to be more down the lines of 'ad nausieum'... :-} At least I use recycled bits and bytes... gotta keep the data landfills from overflowing.
For those who don't know... snaprings have TWO faces... the sharp face, and the rounded face. Look REALLY close... if you install a snapring backwards, thrust against the sharp face will cause the rounded face to pop the snapring off the shaft (or ID, whichever type). Many don't realize this, and go through lots of grief with snaprings.
Always install the snapring so that the SHARP edge faces AWAY from the thrust... and if you've installed on backwards, or had one pop off, look at the groove really close- make sure it's clean, and squared off... once one gets 'ejected', it rounds the groove and increases propensity for ejecting it again later... even when installed the right way.
Terry- I'll take that as a compliment, although some probably consider it to be more down the lines of 'ad nausieum'... :-} At least I use recycled bits and bytes... gotta keep the data landfills from overflowing.
Dave,
The snap rings are factory orignals, was thinkin I should have replaced 6 yrs ago.
Remove gear box last night, snap ring is ok but the groove is lacking in depth now. The inner race of the outer bearing wore the shaft down. Need to replace shaft. I know about about snap ring direction, but that does not mean I got it installed correctly. Just one of those details that somtimes gets over looked, oops
The snap rings are factory orignals, was thinkin I should have replaced 6 yrs ago.
Remove gear box last night, snap ring is ok but the groove is lacking in depth now. The inner race of the outer bearing wore the shaft down. Need to replace shaft. I know about about snap ring direction, but that does not mean I got it installed correctly. Just one of those details that somtimes gets over looked, oops
dgallagher
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- David Gallagher
Can the hydraulic cylinder on my 149 be rebuilt? It has a small leak. Thanks.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Dave P..
yep.. that's me. my auger took 2 months to fix, as the PO got into an arguement with a dog chain, and lost. i didn't use graphite paint, mainly because i like the look of the white. i did, however, wax the snot out of it, and seems to throw pretty good. i need to block the engine heat away, tho... you should stop by, i'll give you a tour...
yep.. that's me. my auger took 2 months to fix, as the PO got into an arguement with a dog chain, and lost. i didn't use graphite paint, mainly because i like the look of the white. i did, however, wax the snot out of it, and seems to throw pretty good. i need to block the engine heat away, tho... you should stop by, i'll give you a tour...
Tom H., here's the installed u-joint.
Ray L., I figured as long as I was taking photos I should take some of the strobe light for you.
)Kraig,
Thanks for the pics of the Mars, er strobe lamp. Still need to get out and buy one. . .
Bryan,
Finally, after months of excavation in our crawl, I've discovered <u>Interurbans</u> written by Middleton, published by Kalbach. A must read with sections on both the North and South Shore Electrics. Lunch??"
Thanks for the pics of the Mars, er strobe lamp. Still need to get out and buy one. . .
Bryan,
Finally, after months of excavation in our crawl, I've discovered <u>Interurbans</u> written by Middleton, published by Kalbach. A must read with sections on both the North and South Shore Electrics. Lunch??"
