Norm B.
You get real tired, real quick!
You get real tired, real quick!
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Archive through January 16, 2012
- Thread starter kshultz
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mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Chris P. Welcome aboard and nice little AC 310. One of my buddies has an AC 410 and a 716.
Norm B. What Charlie and Tom H. said... PLUS if you push or pull it too fast and too far while doing so ... You will need another hydro. A.K.A. ... Pressure will build within the system and things will begin to turn and you'll ruin the pump.
Off to work. It's snowing right now and we're supposed to get 3/4s of an inch. Everyone drive safe and have a wonderful day.
Norm B. What Charlie and Tom H. said... PLUS if you push or pull it too fast and too far while doing so ... You will need another hydro. A.K.A. ... Pressure will build within the system and things will begin to turn and you'll ruin the pump.
Off to work. It's snowing right now and we're supposed to get 3/4s of an inch. Everyone drive safe and have a wonderful day.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Norm B: I won't tell you that when I first brought my 149 home, I drove it half-way across the yard before it stalled and I couldn't get it restarted. I didn't know what the handle on the side was for, and it wouldn't have done me any good anyway, because the lever that operated the valves was MIA. I left it sitting in the elements (nothing new for her) for two weeks before I discovered that the pressure had dissipated on its own. I could have gotten it out of the rain, but I didn't know it.
However, even with a new lever installed, I gotta say, it still pays to wait 15-20 minutes before trying to move it very far. Getting it moving again immediately after stopping, is a little like trying to get a car out of the snow or mud; a little forward, and little backward, a little more, and then . . . it starts to roll free.
I can't tell you how many times I pushed my 782 with automatic valves (which seem to work quite nicely, thank you) across the yard over the two years I ran the Briggs & Scrappem engine in it. And, yes, Tom, I wished mightily for a gear drive on those days. (Gosh, these Cub Cadets are heavy!)
Lew: Thanks for the pictures of your setup; it doesn't appear that you had to make any modifications to the front of the under-carriage, and it looks like you gave yourself the same 1/2" gap at the rear that I'm trying to eliminate.
If I remember correctly, Kraig has posted before that the difference between a narrow frame undercarriage and a wide frame undercarriage is that the hangers on the narrow frames are located INSIDE the rails, whereas the wide frames are located OUTSIDE the rails. I would have to do some welding to truly convert one of the wide frame undercarriages and adapt it correctly to my 42" deck.
Chris P: Aside from being a moderator, Charlie "Digger" Proctor, also owns this site. Everyone here, except one guy from Kentucky, accords him a special kind of respect. To paraphrase Bill Cosby, "He made it possible for you to post on this forum; and he can make it impossible for you to post too."
However, even with a new lever installed, I gotta say, it still pays to wait 15-20 minutes before trying to move it very far. Getting it moving again immediately after stopping, is a little like trying to get a car out of the snow or mud; a little forward, and little backward, a little more, and then . . . it starts to roll free.
I can't tell you how many times I pushed my 782 with automatic valves (which seem to work quite nicely, thank you) across the yard over the two years I ran the Briggs & Scrappem engine in it. And, yes, Tom, I wished mightily for a gear drive on those days. (Gosh, these Cub Cadets are heavy!)
Lew: Thanks for the pictures of your setup; it doesn't appear that you had to make any modifications to the front of the under-carriage, and it looks like you gave yourself the same 1/2" gap at the rear that I'm trying to eliminate.
If I remember correctly, Kraig has posted before that the difference between a narrow frame undercarriage and a wide frame undercarriage is that the hangers on the narrow frames are located INSIDE the rails, whereas the wide frames are located OUTSIDE the rails. I would have to do some welding to truly convert one of the wide frame undercarriages and adapt it correctly to my 42" deck.
Chris P: Aside from being a moderator, Charlie "Digger" Proctor, also owns this site. Everyone here, except one guy from Kentucky, accords him a special kind of respect. To paraphrase Bill Cosby, "He made it possible for you to post on this forum; and he can make it impossible for you to post too."
Don Tanner. I have found that when parking a cub for a extended amount of time, To drain all gas and let it run until the carb is completly empty.I hadn't started my 1250 for 32 months. Sunday i put gas and a battery in it and it started right up.I usually try to keep 6 to 8 ready to work all year. But that is a lot of batteries to maintain, when they usually just last for 1 to 2 years unles u pay big prices for them.
DONALD T. - Yep, I still have the first set of sockets & combination wrenches, WRIGHT brand I bought about 40 yrs ago. I've broke a few sockets and typically replace them with Craftsman, plus I've bought a couple other sets of Craftsman combination wrenches, both SAE & Metric, and impact sockets , both 1/2" & 3/8" drive, and have complete sets of Craftsman shallow & deep SAE & Metric sockets now. I even have a couple 8-point sockets which come in handy working on old FARMALL's since they used a lot of square head bolts & nuts. Ohhh And I have 6, 8, 12 inch & 15 inch crescent wrenches in both SAE & Metric too!
SON is amassing a HUGE tool set right now. Lots of Craftsman new stuff, and some MAC & Snap-On when he can get deals on them off Craigs List. He's got a shiny new 41" Craftsman top & bottom tool box set to fill. The tool box alone cost about what my first car did!
I don't really have a problem with Craftsman hand tools, power tools, Yes, had too many fail on me. When I need a new tool I'm not going to chase a truck around three counties to get it. Local hardware store that went out of business 5 yrs ago handled S-K tools, I'd rank them right up there with Snap-On & Mac, they looked like fine jewelry compared to my stuff.
Last time I was at Sears, 2-3 weeks ago looking for tamper-proof TORX bits I was amazed at how little stuff my local Sears store had. I may have to look at KOBALT stuff at H-D next time.
SON is amassing a HUGE tool set right now. Lots of Craftsman new stuff, and some MAC & Snap-On when he can get deals on them off Craigs List. He's got a shiny new 41" Craftsman top & bottom tool box set to fill. The tool box alone cost about what my first car did!
I don't really have a problem with Craftsman hand tools, power tools, Yes, had too many fail on me. When I need a new tool I'm not going to chase a truck around three counties to get it. Local hardware store that went out of business 5 yrs ago handled S-K tools, I'd rank them right up there with Snap-On & Mac, they looked like fine jewelry compared to my stuff.
Last time I was at Sears, 2-3 weeks ago looking for tamper-proof TORX bits I was amazed at how little stuff my local Sears store had. I may have to look at KOBALT stuff at H-D next time.
kphill
Well-known member
Dennis, Wright is still in business..We use their tools at work, as well as Snap-On..Wright tools are very well made without the shiny "bling" like Snap-On.. http://www.wrighttool.com/
kphill
Well-known member
And I usually buy Craftsman as well for the same reasons as you..And no Cub Cadet owner should be without a set of these.. CLICK HERE
Jeremiah:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
If I remember correctly, Kraig has posted before that the difference between a narrow frame undercarriage and a wide frame undercarriage is that the hangers on the narrow frames are located INSIDE the rails, whereas the wide frames are located OUTSIDE the rails. I would have to do some welding to truly convert one of the wide frame undercarriages and adapt it correctly to my 42" deck.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">I don't recall ever stating that.</font>
<font size="-1">You might be thinking of the front QA pins on dozer blade sub frames. For those the pins face inward on a NF and outward on a WF.</font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
If I remember correctly, Kraig has posted before that the difference between a narrow frame undercarriage and a wide frame undercarriage is that the hangers on the narrow frames are located INSIDE the rails, whereas the wide frames are located OUTSIDE the rails. I would have to do some welding to truly convert one of the wide frame undercarriages and adapt it correctly to my 42" deck.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">I don't recall ever stating that.</font>
KEVIN - I think we used a lot of Wright tools at FARMALL too. Have to agree on the "Bling", it costs a lot especially in Snap-On's case.
I haven't bought a set of roll pin punches yet, but there has been a time or two where I wished I'd had them. I do have a good selection of punches & chisels.
SON was up three weeks ago and we were working in the shop. He opened my plier drawer and said he has to duplicate what I have. I feel sorry for him, I know my stuff is old and the prices now on Vice-Grips & Channel-Locs are crazy!
What I really need to find a really GOOD set of screw drivers and throw my old junk away! Best screw driver I have is a 30+ yr old Stanley 8" straight blade I bought to scrape stuff like gaskets off and pry with. Everything else I have, even new Craftsman screw drivers are JUNK.
I haven't bought a set of roll pin punches yet, but there has been a time or two where I wished I'd had them. I do have a good selection of punches & chisels.
SON was up three weeks ago and we were working in the shop. He opened my plier drawer and said he has to duplicate what I have. I feel sorry for him, I know my stuff is old and the prices now on Vice-Grips & Channel-Locs are crazy!
What I really need to find a really GOOD set of screw drivers and throw my old junk away! Best screw driver I have is a 30+ yr old Stanley 8" straight blade I bought to scrape stuff like gaskets off and pry with. Everything else I have, even new Craftsman screw drivers are JUNK.
James J. G., WELCOME!
Sounds like the reverse check valve is stuck down. Brent Lyons had the same issue just a few weeks ago. Read back through the archives for the info. Basically you'll have to remove the fenders, seat support and pull out the rear end to get access to the valves. Once you get it apart you'll want to clean the area around the valves and you might be able to pull the valve button up with a pliers. However more than likely you'll have to remove the valve and clean it up.
A link to the archives on the release valves
Another link to the archives on the release valves.
Here's a link to the Service Manual for the 123 This should show you how to get the tractor apart to the point that you can access the relief valves.
A link to the archives on the release valves
Another link to the archives on the release valves.
Here's a link to the Service Manual for the 123 This should show you how to get the tractor apart to the point that you can access the relief valves.
james john gebolys
Those hyd release vales can stick and not work. I would try running the engine at half power and keep moving the hydro handel back and forh from forward to rev and see if the hydro valve don`t let go. Sometimes they will.
Denny
I have a set of Crescent open end and gear box end wrenches. They do come in handy and I use them on my Cubs.
Krag is way to fast for me
Those hyd release vales can stick and not work. I would try running the engine at half power and keep moving the hydro handel back and forh from forward to rev and see if the hydro valve don`t let go. Sometimes they will.
Denny
I have a set of Crescent open end and gear box end wrenches. They do come in handy and I use them on my Cubs.
Krag is way to fast for me
Don, however your suggestion of running the tractor hydro lever back and forth to free it up is a good one.
One I always forget.
James - Yes, Welcome!
As Kraig mentioned, I did have this issue a couple weeks ago on my 125. The reverse check valve was stuck down which was allowing the fluid to bypass and give no reverse. Kind of a pain to take a NF apart, but while you are there it is a perfect time to clean everything up to allow better cooling to the hydro.
BTW, I got the 125 going again over the weekend. Rust sediment appears to be pretty much gone. So I took it for a drive into the backyard. Got down the hill, rounded the corner and promptly lost all traction due to the light dusting of snow on the ground.
Since I didn't feel like going to get chains, I just parked it in the backyard shed. The good news I have room in the garage now to work on the 147 (new engine). Have a good day all!
Brent
As Kraig mentioned, I did have this issue a couple weeks ago on my 125. The reverse check valve was stuck down which was allowing the fluid to bypass and give no reverse. Kind of a pain to take a NF apart, but while you are there it is a perfect time to clean everything up to allow better cooling to the hydro.
BTW, I got the 125 going again over the weekend. Rust sediment appears to be pretty much gone. So I took it for a drive into the backyard. Got down the hill, rounded the corner and promptly lost all traction due to the light dusting of snow on the ground.
Since I didn't feel like going to get chains, I just parked it in the backyard shed. The good news I have room in the garage now to work on the 147 (new engine). Have a good day all!
Brent
DON - I made a "SPECIAL" cabinent with pegboard doors to mount over my work bench just so I had someplace close to hang my collection of Gear Wrenches, I have SAE & metric plus a set of "Shorty SAE & Metric, plus SON found a BIG set of four Metrics, think they're 22,24,27, & 32 mm.
I hope the guy who invented GearWrenches is retired to some Banana Republic someplace warm and sitting on a beach some place warm!
I hope the guy who invented GearWrenches is retired to some Banana Republic someplace warm and sitting on a beach some place warm!
Dennis Frisk,
The best screwdrivers that I own are made by Klein.I have some short and long shanked drivers as well as some big square shanked flat heads.
I've got my wiper motor connected on my 1650/ snowthrower to turn the chute.It works excellant!
The best screwdrivers that I own are made by Klein.I have some short and long shanked drivers as well as some big square shanked flat heads.
I've got my wiper motor connected on my 1650/ snowthrower to turn the chute.It works excellant!
jchamberlin
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I'm with Dave on the quality of Klein tools, I believe they're made in Chicago and marketed through electrical supply distributors, among other outlets.
Kraig, to be honest, all I remember were the pictures you posted displaying the NF pins pointing in and the WF pins pointing out; I'm glad you recalled and corrected the context.
Besides, after thinking about it, I realized that simply re-orienting the pins wouldn't work anyway; its not enough to compensate for the differences between a wide frame and a narrow frame.
If the outside dimensions of the rails on a proper 42" undercarriage are 10-3/4" to match the inner dimensions of the pins on the 42" deck; then hanging them from a wide frame rock-shaft would mean machining a new piece that screws onto the lift link itself.
Carriage for 42" Deck (note lift link):
Two-piece lift link used for most wide frame undercarriages:
Judging from the difficulty I'm having, and after examining the illustrations from the manuals above, I'd say that narrow frame's undercarriage, the one designed for the 38"/42"/48" deck, must be wider than the undercarriages for the WF/QL/82 tractors.
So, if the part of the later-style lift link that does the adjusting (the part with internal threads ) were to be modified so that the shank is extended 1/2", or 1/4" each side, the rails on the carriage could brought out to meet the pins on the deck.
At least that would be one way to do it.
Kraig, to be honest, all I remember were the pictures you posted displaying the NF pins pointing in and the WF pins pointing out; I'm glad you recalled and corrected the context.
Besides, after thinking about it, I realized that simply re-orienting the pins wouldn't work anyway; its not enough to compensate for the differences between a wide frame and a narrow frame.
If the outside dimensions of the rails on a proper 42" undercarriage are 10-3/4" to match the inner dimensions of the pins on the 42" deck; then hanging them from a wide frame rock-shaft would mean machining a new piece that screws onto the lift link itself.
Carriage for 42" Deck (note lift link):
Two-piece lift link used for most wide frame undercarriages:
Judging from the difficulty I'm having, and after examining the illustrations from the manuals above, I'd say that narrow frame's undercarriage, the one designed for the 38"/42"/48" deck, must be wider than the undercarriages for the WF/QL/82 tractors.
So, if the part of the later-style lift link that does the adjusting (the part with internal threads ) were to be modified so that the shank is extended 1/2", or 1/4" each side, the rails on the carriage could brought out to meet the pins on the deck.
At least that would be one way to do it.
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