Lonny,
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Archive through January 16, 2007
- Thread starter gcoleman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
That is looking very good Ken!!! I like the white lettering on the tires with the red that sets it off. I know a lot of people are not into that fine of details but to me it is important.
Question: did you clear coat the frame also?
My little K241 is back together. Thanks to Capt. Kirk on some good reading, Wild Bill for a couple sugestions, and Brian Miller for some really nice work. Got it all painted, but what I did was leave some of the bolt heads "shiny" really set that 10hp off.
Every thing else coming together slowly but right.
Pops
Question: did you clear coat the frame also?
My little K241 is back together. Thanks to Capt. Kirk on some good reading, Wild Bill for a couple sugestions, and Brian Miller for some really nice work. Got it all painted, but what I did was leave some of the bolt heads "shiny" really set that 10hp off.
Every thing else coming together slowly but right.
Pops
I do have another question for all you mechanical guru's! Here at the hospital in our stables besides a newer Cub and all the equipment we use for it we also have an old Case with blade, deck, and hardly ever used snowblower!
Looking at it very close to "me" I think that Case snowblower could be transformed over to use on the 1000 anybody ever try this?
Pops
Looking at it very close to "me" I think that Case snowblower could be transformed over to use on the 1000 anybody ever try this?
Pops
Pops,
I doubt your going to get much of a reply on your question.
I don't know anyone here that adapts odd ball stuff to their Cubs since it's to easy to find the right piece of equipment in the first place.
Of course there are other sites that seem to specialize in that sort of thing!
I doubt your going to get much of a reply on your question.
I don't know anyone here that adapts odd ball stuff to their Cubs since it's to easy to find the right piece of equipment in the first place.
Of course there are other sites that seem to specialize in that sort of thing!
The forum is based on different people's opinions. I know and understand that, but I have a question and this is the best place I can think to ask. I read(not too long ago) a 782 was a better machine compared to a 1650 because it had a smoother engine. If that's the case- would the series II engine fit on a 1650? And would that make the machines equal, or are there other features that would still make the 782 better? I have never seen a 782 so besides this forum I know absoluetely nothing about them. I am at home for lunch and it's time for me to go back so I did not have time to check the archives for any info on this. Thanks in advance for the information.
Gary L,
Fitting a twin cylinder KT-17 Kohler into a 1650 chassis frame would require significant modifications to the forward portion of the frame. I'm sure there are some experts on the forum that could attempt such modifications but it would require more time, skill and tools than I currently have. Plus I'd hate to chop up a perfectly good Quietline frame, but that's just me. The KT-17 twin is much wider then the K341 single cylinder engine as the KT's cylinder heads hang over each side by several inches. The 82 series chassis frame is basically rolled into a triangular shape and flatten at the front to accommodate the twin cylinder engine.
Fitting a twin cylinder KT-17 Kohler into a 1650 chassis frame would require significant modifications to the forward portion of the frame. I'm sure there are some experts on the forum that could attempt such modifications but it would require more time, skill and tools than I currently have. Plus I'd hate to chop up a perfectly good Quietline frame, but that's just me. The KT-17 twin is much wider then the K341 single cylinder engine as the KT's cylinder heads hang over each side by several inches. The 82 series chassis frame is basically rolled into a triangular shape and flatten at the front to accommodate the twin cylinder engine.
"I've had a 129 and 20 horse Kawasaki sitting here for years and I'd like to marry the two but I refuse to cut the frame!"
Ken, if you wait a couple more years you might not have to cut the frame.
Just kidding, Ken.
I picture you going outside to the back of the shed where the 129 and the 20 horse are sitting every couple of months. Standing there stoking your chin saying hmmmmmmm to yourself. After a couple of hours you give up and head back into the house.
Ken, if you wait a couple more years you might not have to cut the frame.
Just kidding, Ken.
I picture you going outside to the back of the shed where the 129 and the 20 horse are sitting every couple of months. Standing there stoking your chin saying hmmmmmmm to yourself. After a couple of hours you give up and head back into the house.
Glen: Ya don't have a manual yet do ya?
I follow the manual and get the timing really close with my Ohm meter..(look through the sight hole in the blower housing get the line on the flywheel with an 'S' in the center of the hole, at that time the points should >just< be breaking..if your meter has an 'audible' setting it should stop squealing right when the 'S' line is in the center of the sight hole)..and since I recently bought a timing light, I then check it with the timing light and make 'fine tunings' until it is pretty much perfect. The timing light will 'flash' when the plug fires, at that time the 'S' line should be centered in the hole.
I follow the manual and get the timing really close with my Ohm meter..(look through the sight hole in the blower housing get the line on the flywheel with an 'S' in the center of the hole, at that time the points should >just< be breaking..if your meter has an 'audible' setting it should stop squealing right when the 'S' line is in the center of the sight hole)..and since I recently bought a timing light, I then check it with the timing light and make 'fine tunings' until it is pretty much perfect. The timing light will 'flash' when the plug fires, at that time the 'S' line should be centered in the hole.
Kendell,
No apologies necessary - as long as it works and is reliable, that's what really counts. You can work on the cosmetics later. A little time spent with a grinder and some paint and it'll look factory. Nice job!
Ken M., that's a beautiful 782.
No apologies necessary - as long as it works and is reliable, that's what really counts. You can work on the cosmetics later. A little time spent with a grinder and some paint and it'll look factory. Nice job!
Ken M., that's a beautiful 782.
Gary L. I have seen a 1450 with a V twin Command in it. It fits pretty well with a small notch for the starter. You also eliminate the ISO mounts. Then of course you would have the rumble of the "V-Rod" which is way cool!
Kentuck,thats close,I dont think my kodak will do that but im going to practice more. BenP,thanks for the nice words,there hard to get sometimes. RyanD,I just make sure that the tires are clean and dry,thenuse a small art brush and apply several coats of bright white gloss till happy with them. LonnieB,I am going to try posting more than one pic at a time of my latest project,its a manual "FOOT"operated angle blade"sears" 42in.that I engineered today and it works great you just push the rod and then move blade agianst dirt or snow or what ever and the realease and your on your way"WHEW"sorry for the long post just trying to get caught up. kenny m. P.S. digger please be easy on me ole buddy"lol".
