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Archive through January 16, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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FWIW-
My axle bolt setup is just a jam nut that's been tapped for a knurled-face set screw, IMHO nylon inserts are junk, and for some reason Loctite hasn't done the trick to keep the nut tight (probably because I didn't properly clean/primer the threads to begin with). The castelated nut would work, but with a rigid-mount engine with the "sump" pan I just don't have the room.
 
Are the bevel gears inin the gearbox of a QA42A and a QA42 the same?
Thanks
TPG
 
Ken "U",
Saw something accross the steet about Percision Classic's. Is there a Cub Cadte in the works> Can you fill us in?
 
Can't fully comment on the precision CC toy yet..........
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Hey experienced Cubbies- I'm still trying to get this old CW-36 thrower up and running. Thought a flat driveway would eliminate the need for weights and chains. Ha! So I got some chains, ok cast my own weights, ok, The impeller seems to bog down quite easily. New belt, does that thing need to be tightened wicked tight? Its not sandblasted and pretty but I thought it would work better than this. Also, on the raise/lower handle the button sticks-BAD. I can get by in the warmer weather, but now it sucks. What do I need to do to disassemble that thing, clean, lube etc? THANKS!!! Dave
 
Ken,
Since you can't "fully comment" on it, are the wheels turing in the right direction?
 
David P., spray a bunch of PB Blaster or some other quality penetrating oil inside the lift arm to lubricate the rod (if this doesn't fix it, it is possible that the spring has rusted to the point where it has lost it's strength). Yes the belt will need to be quite tight. If the inside of the auger housing is rusty it will NOT work well. The rust will hold onto the snow, that is likely why is seems to bog down. Save yourself the headache and remove the auger and the discharge chute and clean the rust off of the inside of the auger housing, pay special attention to the area of the discharge chute. Give the inside of the auger housing a good coat of paint then brush on 2 coats of Slip-Plate or some other good quality graphite paint you will not believe the difference. It'll help a bit to remove the rust from the auger itself but it is not as important as the auger housing and discharge chute. Also a good coat of Slip-Plate on the area where the discharge chute rotates will greatly reduce the force required to rotate the discharge chute and prevent it from freezing up.
 
Kraig- I knew you would be one of the first to respond! Yeah, I knew the rust wouldn't help
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do I need to strip the whole thing down and have it sandblasted? Where would I get slip-plate paint? I know paint wont stick to rust/dirt. Mid January is a funny time to be tearing this thing down. If I need to dissassemble the spring thing, how does it come outta there? Thanks as always. Dave
 
David P., the button on the top of the lift arm is just threaded onto the rod that is inside. It should just unscrew, but it is most likely rusted on. Spray some PB Blaster down inside and let it soak for a while before you try to unscrew the button. It'd be best if you take the auger housing down to bare metal. If you have a 4" or 4.5" angle gringer it'll work well for doing this. Get a sanding disk adapter for it and some coarse sanding disks. You can also use a wire brush attachment for the angle grinder but it won't work as fast as the sanding disk. Be sure to wear a quality dust mask while removing the rust and old paint. Slip-Plate is available at Graingers and Fleet Farm carries a similar product called simply Graphite Paint. Be sure to get the brush on version rather then the spray on version as the brush on version has more graphite. The cheap foam brushes work well for putting the Slip-Plate on.

I did my QA42 in November 2000. I heated my unheated garage with a space heater and preheated the metal up with a heat gun before painting it. The paint turned out very good for a rattle can paint job. I brought the auger housing inside the house to warm up and then brushed on the graphite paint.

25070.jpg

Before.

25071.jpg

After.
 
David P.
Do what Kraig said, but if you have snow and need it quick! May I suggest doing the chute section right now with the paint and slip plate,and changing the thrower pulley from the 3 1/2" down to a 2 1/2" or 3". Just make sure that your auger bearings are good and tight.
Worked wonders for mine.
25073.jpg
 
I recoated the auger housing and discharge chute this fall.
25075.jpg


25076.jpg


25077.jpg
 
Kraig,
Ya know! I don't think we have seen pics of that pretty thrower in action since you fixed it up have we?
 
Charlie, good point on the auger bearings. I replaced mine in November 2000 when I refurbished the QA42.

David P., should you need one, the part number for the spring in the lift handle is 732-3023. The button on top is part number IH-376307-R2. The rod inside is part of the lift handle assembly so be careful not to twist it off when removing the button!!!! Be sure to spray plenty of penetrating spray (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or some other good quality penetrant) on it before you try to remove it!! Good luck.
 
Charlie, have you seen the two videos of my QA42 in action? That photo you posted is a image taken from the video clip. The videos are on Volume 2, in "Forum Member Photos", I think you can figure out the rest, if you wish, go ahead and post a link to them. :eek:)
 
Charlie, thanks! Keep in mind that, that's a tired old 12hp in my 125 and the QA42 has a stock pulley. The snow was a heavy wet snow and was about 6" deep. The videos were taken in March of 2001.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on January 17, 2005)
 

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