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Made a vise stop for my mill table

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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Inspired by Jeff, I got some shop time with the Jet this weekend.

Probably way overkill and overly complicated but it gave me some face time with the mill.
Photos should be self explanatory, I hope!
Using it already to size up pieces for a burr puzzle.
Got six 3" pieces done using 1/2" square aluminum rod and they are within 001" overall length. I thought that was close enough for government work like we used to say in the Army COE!!

Made the top nut w/two sized threads for 1/4" and 5/16" pins.
Should be adjustable enough to center most anything that will fit in the vise. (I thought that was important) but I don't know why, just felt like doing it!

Drilled them1/2" and 3/4" holes using an end mill. first time for that as well. Was really surprised how fast they sliced through that thick metal, using plenty of lube of course.
Had a heck of a time getting things centered using the dials what with figuring in the backlash etc. what a PITA! You guys that have been doing this all these years w/o a DRO have my respect for sure! BTW, a new DRO PRO EL400 is leaning against the wall in my shop still in the box!!

DSCN7590.JPG
DSCN7591.JPG
 

jderstine

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Jeff Derstine
Glad I was some inspiration. Looks good and they come in quite handy for multiple pieces.

Here's the one I made for the 4" Kurt vise I was able to pick up for a decent price.

The stop I made is similar to factory offered stop but a whole lot cheaper since I made it
( Almost $110 )

Milled a flat on the bar so it would sit against the back and then drilled the holes for mounting it. I used the drill bit to make sure it was perpendicular when I turned the bar over to mill the bolt flats.

The round piece has #10-32 pinch bolts to hold the part in place when tightened.

The "blank" arm still needs to have a drilled and tapped hole put in it for a piece of all thread so I can reach inside the vise. The round bar can also be positioned under the back bar for extra clearance.

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I made another shorter round bar for the stop. I used the stop I just made as I drilled and tapped the hole at the far left. I took the part out of the vise, turned it 90* and put it back against the stop. That kept me from edge finding the part everytime I took it out.

Below is a square 5C collet block that allows you to index every 90* easily

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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Jeff, I was going to use a long, 6" or so carriage bolt but did not have any long enough.
My vise did not have any holes in it and I didn't want tom drill any.
I picked up a nice used Kurt D675 yesterday and it has holes so may use them for something along the lines of what you did.
The jaws are all peckered up though. Don't know whether to replace them or not.
 

jderstine

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Jeff Derstine
Jeff, I was going to use a long, 6" or so carriage bolt but did not have any long enough.
My vise did not have any holes in it and I didn't want tom drill any.
I picked up a nice used Kurt D675 yesterday and it has holes so may use them for something along the lines of what you did.
The jaws are all peckered up though. Don't know whether to replace them or not.
If the jaws are messed up, just make new ones from CRS ( 3/4" x 1-3/4" x 6" ) or aluminum. We use soft jaws all the time at work. I made a few sets of soft jaws for my 4" kurt vise. they are handy to have for specialized parts too.

I used hot rolled steel for the one set but milled the scale off and then surface ground them at work to make them perfectly flat.

Rebuild kits are available for the D675 if you need one. Here it is from McMaster for $23.25 McMaster-Carr
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
If the jaws are messed up, just make new ones from CRS ( 3/4" x 1-3/4" x 6" ) or aluminum. We use soft jaws all the time at work. I made a few sets of soft jaws for my 4" kurt vise. they are handy to have for specialized parts too.

I used hot rolled steel for the one set but milled the scale off and then surface ground them at work to make them perfectly flat.

Rebuild kits are available for the D675 if you need one. Here it is from McMaster for $23.25 McMaster-Carr
$19 right from Kurt w/free shipping!!
There suppoded to be a grease fitting on the rear of the vise?
Parts lookup shows one in a special plug of some sort.
Mune just has wheat appears to be a yellow plastic plug.
Maybe I should drill and insert a zert in there??
 

jderstine

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Jeff Derstine
We have a few D675 Kurt vises at work. I will try to remember to look for the grease fitting Monday.

If you haven't disassembled a Kurt vise before, they are simple to do.

Remove jaws.

Flip vise over and remove the two SHCS holding the stationary jaw. The jaw is held in place b those two SHCS and a key.

Turn the vise back over and in the center on the back is another threaded hole. It may have one or two set screws in it. Remove it (them ) and then lift the movable jaw while pushing slightly forward. There will be a "half ball" in the movable jaw that is pressed against by the "nut" (threaded casting) on the movable jaw screw.

Now turn the casting off the screw by turning it in a tightening direction.

Depending on the year of manufacture and exact model, there will either be a threaded collar or a "three wrap" snap ring. Remove that and then the screw should slide out.

Now clear everything as well as possible and using a stone in a circular motion( with lubricant) , make sure everything is burr free.

Clean again to make sure there isn't any grit left.

I like to put a thin layer of grease down on the machined surfaces. Spread it on with your fingers or a putty knife and then using a razor blade, scrape the grease off. This will allow an extremely thin layer of grease to remain without being a "chip collector".

Grease the screw, the area where the thrust washers and in the casting. Re assemble.

Jeff
 

Poczik15

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Jan 30, 2020
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Location
Southwest Michigan
Inspired by Jeff, I got some shop time with the Jet this weekend.

Probably way overkill and overly complicated but it gave me some face time with the mill.
Photos should be self explanatory, I hope!
Using it already to size up pieces for a burr puzzle.
Got six 3" pieces done using 1/2" square aluminum rod and they are within 001" overall length. I thought that was close enough for government work like we used to say in the Army COE!!

Made the top nut w/two sized threads for 1/4" and 5/16" pins.
Should be adjustable enough to center most anything that will fit in the vise. (I thought that was important) but I don't know why, just felt like doing it!

Drilled them1/2" and 3/4" holes using an end mill. first time for that as well. Was really surprised how fast they sliced through that thick metal, using plenty of lube of course.
Had a heck of a time getting things centered using the dials what with figuring in the backlash etc. what a PITA! You guys that have been doing this all these years w/o a DRO have my respect for sure! BTW, a new DRO PRO EL400 is leaning against the wall in my shop still in the box!!

View attachment 136688View attachment 136689
NICE!! like I said in the other thread about the deck, im new to tinkering. but machining....... thats what i know!!
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
That's great!!
I wish I did!!
Maybe you can help me out from time to time.
 

mmasheris

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Aug 8, 2006
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Michael A.Masheris
Dave that mill table is too clean get busy and use it
 

dschwandt

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Mar 31, 2012
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David Schwandt
I see they have that listed on the parts diagram. A metal plug of sorts withn a hole for the zert.
Guess I should order one. Should have included that when I ordered the new jaws that showed up yesterday. The will replace the peckered up ones that were on it when I picked it up.

Then I can use the smaller vise stop (pictured) I made last week,

DSCN7686.JPG
 

jderstine

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Jeff Derstine
(1st) grease fitting
Some of the Kurt vises have the grease fittings and some just have a plastic cap on the end. All long as you keep it greased( and clear of chips), it shouldn't matter which you use.
(2nd) vise stop
That stop will work fine for most of what you're doing. It will only be in the way if you are milling close to the jaw.
Jeff
 

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