Steve B., simple answer, both, make big snow piles with the blade on the 1872 then clean up the snow piles with the 782 and snowthrower.
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Archive through January 13, 2009
- Thread starter dslater
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
STEVE B. - Use whichever Cubbie has the cab.
KENDELL - Yep, back in the "Good Ole' Days when I was tuning My SBC I'd crank in advance till it pinged on premium gas, then back it off a degree or two. Did the same with the 5.0L Mustang too....but when gas would get expensive Wife would put regular gas in it. I'm surprised the head gaskets lasted as long as they did in that engine!
Also, PTO setcrews....the clutch on I think My 72 has 5/16" NC setcrews...works fine with anti-sieze...plus the bigger setscrews have bigger hex recesses for bigger allen wrenches. Might have been the 129 though. I think 3/8" NC would be the biggest size I would go to however. Those holes are kinda close to the back side of the pulley.
KENDELL - Yep, back in the "Good Ole' Days when I was tuning My SBC I'd crank in advance till it pinged on premium gas, then back it off a degree or two. Did the same with the 5.0L Mustang too....but when gas would get expensive Wife would put regular gas in it. I'm surprised the head gaskets lasted as long as they did in that engine!
Also, PTO setcrews....the clutch on I think My 72 has 5/16" NC setcrews...works fine with anti-sieze...plus the bigger setscrews have bigger hex recesses for bigger allen wrenches. Might have been the 129 though. I think 3/8" NC would be the biggest size I would go to however. Those holes are kinda close to the back side of the pulley.
dsacksteder
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- Dustin Sacksteder
OK, I saw a picture on here a while back and can't find it in the search. I cant remember what the attachment was called. It was a gouge or finger or ripper or cable layer that I believe layed wire in the ground at the same time. I'm not sure on this though. I there was such a thing I thought it would be great for putting in in ground dog fence. Anyone know the attachment Im thinking of?? It was a homemade job. THanks,Dustin
Dustin, is this the attachment you saw? This was made by Ed Stillions for installing "invisible dog fencing".
dsacksteder
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- Dustin Sacksteder
Kraig, you da man, thats not the one i was thinking of, but its better yet. How well did it perform? thanks
any idea where I would get a drive cup grass screen and pulley assembly???
Previous blurb...O.K. Gang... I replaced the clutch assemply on the 104 seem to go rather smoothly until I went to start it up... The metal cage/screen protecting the flywheel has broken off the pulley (Not the clutch cage, the one attached to the engine). could this have been the cause to break the roll pins off in the clutch assembly? How do you get that sucker off with out removing all engine bolts clutch etc??? Any reason why that would break off the bolts connecting the pulley, if you look at it you couldn't tell until you start the engine a sparks start flying...Thanks Guys!!!
Previous blurb...O.K. Gang... I replaced the clutch assemply on the 104 seem to go rather smoothly until I went to start it up... The metal cage/screen protecting the flywheel has broken off the pulley (Not the clutch cage, the one attached to the engine). could this have been the cause to break the roll pins off in the clutch assembly? How do you get that sucker off with out removing all engine bolts clutch etc??? Any reason why that would break off the bolts connecting the pulley, if you look at it you couldn't tell until you start the engine a sparks start flying...Thanks Guys!!!
Douglas, are you tightening the jam nut? Does your 73 still have the jam nut? And just in case you don't have them, here are the adjusting instructions.
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
Steve M,
Looks in pretty decent shape for a CW-36 snow THROWER
Here is a manual for it.
And another version
Looks in pretty decent shape for a CW-36 snow THROWER
Here is a manual for it.
And another version
KEVIN P. - If I understand correctly what You broke, that actually attaches UNDER the big hex nut & flat washer that holds Your flywheel onto the tapered end of the crankshaft. All that actually drives it is a short little 1/4" dia dowel pin and the friction of the big nut & washer.
Sorry to say the engine really has to come out, BUT since it's a 10 HP, the bottom of the oil pan should be flat. Remove the four 3/8" capscrews from the underside of the frame that fasten the engine in, back the PTO clutch linkage ALL the way out so one end comes out of the turnbuckle that adjusts the clutch, slide the engine forward, then lift the engine up and slide a piece of 1/2" to 3/4" plywood under the engine to hold it up above the top of the frame. I don't think You'll have to remove the choke & throttle linkage, leave the hood & grill on. Use either an impact wrench or a socket & ratchet to remove the big hex nut, I think it's 15/16" if I remember right. If You use the socket/ratchet You may have to hit the handle with a hammer to break the nut loose. The grass screen is held onto the diecast driver/pulley with four little hex head screws. If Your screen isn't torn up too bad You may just need the driver with dowel pin. Don't mess with the flywheel, just install the driver, thick flat washer, nut, maybe a drop of Lock-Tite, and You should tighten that nut with a torque wrench. Then install Your three-pin clutch driver, anti-rattle springs go on the pins before You slide the engine back into position. Set the engine back down into the frame, slide it back, install the four 3/8" capscrrews that hold the engine in...reattach the PTO clutch rod to the turnbuckle & adjust.
With any kind of luck You should be able to accomplish that repair in an hour or two.
Sorry to say the engine really has to come out, BUT since it's a 10 HP, the bottom of the oil pan should be flat. Remove the four 3/8" capscrews from the underside of the frame that fasten the engine in, back the PTO clutch linkage ALL the way out so one end comes out of the turnbuckle that adjusts the clutch, slide the engine forward, then lift the engine up and slide a piece of 1/2" to 3/4" plywood under the engine to hold it up above the top of the frame. I don't think You'll have to remove the choke & throttle linkage, leave the hood & grill on. Use either an impact wrench or a socket & ratchet to remove the big hex nut, I think it's 15/16" if I remember right. If You use the socket/ratchet You may have to hit the handle with a hammer to break the nut loose. The grass screen is held onto the diecast driver/pulley with four little hex head screws. If Your screen isn't torn up too bad You may just need the driver with dowel pin. Don't mess with the flywheel, just install the driver, thick flat washer, nut, maybe a drop of Lock-Tite, and You should tighten that nut with a torque wrench. Then install Your three-pin clutch driver, anti-rattle springs go on the pins before You slide the engine back into position. Set the engine back down into the frame, slide it back, install the four 3/8" capscrrews that hold the engine in...reattach the PTO clutch rod to the turnbuckle & adjust.
With any kind of luck You should be able to accomplish that repair in an hour or two.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Timothy T. I put anti seize on my pto screws and never have any trouble.
I had to shovel the drift in front of the garage this afternoon to get the Dakota close enough to jump start the 125. It's 0* outside and windier than all get out. The town tractor and blade went by three times today and by the time I got home you could barely tell. Poor 125 worked its little butt off and that snow is extra cold when it hits your face. I had to take down one drift so that I could get out in the morning. By the time I finished and put the 125/snowthrower away and parked the Dakota that former big drift on the west side of the drive had just about crossed the drive again and was around two inches high.
Quick show of hands as to how many are planning on going to Spring Plow Day at Rockford this year.
I had to shovel the drift in front of the garage this afternoon to get the Dakota close enough to jump start the 125. It's 0* outside and windier than all get out. The town tractor and blade went by three times today and by the time I got home you could barely tell. Poor 125 worked its little butt off and that snow is extra cold when it hits your face. I had to take down one drift so that I could get out in the morning. By the time I finished and put the 125/snowthrower away and parked the Dakota that former big drift on the west side of the drive had just about crossed the drive again and was around two inches high.
Quick show of hands as to how many are planning on going to Spring Plow Day at Rockford this year.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Kevin-
You may have to make one of these to hold the flywheel if you can't get that big nut off due to the engine rotating.
You may have to make one of these to hold the flywheel if you can't get that big nut off due to the engine rotating.
Hello All,
I started to take the 70 apart for cleaning and inspection tody.doesnt look to bad!!!!Im not going to take it apart much farther util I can find the manuals.
Kraig do you have one of thoes fancy wireing diagrams from roland for the 70??I know they are in the FAQS!!but I like the color ones!!
The steering wheel worked beautiful!!no damage!
I have a question,what are the plates/gards in this photo for??I have no way of highlighting them or point with an arrow so I will try to describe what the heck Im talking about!!...In this picture they are the plates,on this side that cover/are in front of the serial #,bolted on by a peice at a 45 degree angle towards the back by the axel.Kinda has a rusty square on them where there are two threaded holes.1 plate on each side.Clear enough??LOL....I havent seen them on the pictures of the other 70s ive seen
I belive Ive relocated a couple mice also!!They got all kinds of junk stashed under the seat and at the base of the dash tower.
I started to take the 70 apart for cleaning and inspection tody.doesnt look to bad!!!!Im not going to take it apart much farther util I can find the manuals.
Kraig do you have one of thoes fancy wireing diagrams from roland for the 70??I know they are in the FAQS!!but I like the color ones!!
The steering wheel worked beautiful!!no damage!
I have a question,what are the plates/gards in this photo for??I have no way of highlighting them or point with an arrow so I will try to describe what the heck Im talking about!!...In this picture they are the plates,on this side that cover/are in front of the serial #,bolted on by a peice at a 45 degree angle towards the back by the axel.Kinda has a rusty square on them where there are two threaded holes.1 plate on each side.Clear enough??LOL....I havent seen them on the pictures of the other 70s ive seen
I belive Ive relocated a couple mice also!!They got all kinds of junk stashed under the seat and at the base of the dash tower.
Hello!!
One more question....
Do you all have any suggestions for things to look for during the inspection of this tractor??
Im going to clean all the elec. connections,change all the fluids,change the, points, plug, condensor, filter, rebuild the carb,clean the tank and fuel bowl out,replace the fuel line,and "clean" everything.
Anything else Im missing? While the rear end is open??the engine??
I am just qurious what all you inspect on a gear drive!!
Thanks Jason
I guess thats more than one question!!!
One more question....
Do you all have any suggestions for things to look for during the inspection of this tractor??
Im going to clean all the elec. connections,change all the fluids,change the, points, plug, condensor, filter, rebuild the carb,clean the tank and fuel bowl out,replace the fuel line,and "clean" everything.
Anything else Im missing? While the rear end is open??the engine??
I am just qurious what all you inspect on a gear drive!!
Thanks Jason
I guess thats more than one question!!!
mstetar
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- Matt (Diesel Creek)
Jason i know its over at the "other" site, but i got all my manuals there, they actually have quite the selection
<font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font>.com/manuals/service.php
haha i just remembered, my post is probabily gonna get poofed! hope your watching jason!
Edit: lol or they could have programed it to put those red dots there in stead of the words!
second edit: i can email you the ones i downloaded as well, if you still dont get where there at, lol
<font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font>.com/manuals/service.php
haha i just remembered, my post is probabily gonna get poofed! hope your watching jason!
Edit: lol or they could have programed it to put those red dots there in stead of the words!
second edit: i can email you the ones i downloaded as well, if you still dont get where there at, lol
A plowin I did go again. Now with headlights that WORK! and so does the ammeter.plowed 2 lots +walks along with neighbor on his A-C 916(previously mentioned) power lift and blade angle adj from seat -on his-really speeds things up for him.hmmmm I know- start lookin for a hydro lift Cub and hydro cyl angle plow.
But on bright side(pun intended) being able to see at night is great
But on bright side(pun intended) being able to see at night is great
