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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kendell - Yeah, but you'd probably wear out your fingers typing, by pointing out every detail ("pick up hammer in one hand and punch in the other"...). After 21 years in the Air Force, I'm pretty hard to offend with detailed instructions - they break everything down into baby steps!
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Roger May

I'm here in NE Ohio and it's been single digits lately here. My 149 sits out in the metal shed behind the garage and I've been so happy/surprised that it fires up quite nicely. It has a new battery last summer, turns over like a '40 Ford, just slowly, evenly comes to life with little effort.
 
Dave, Scott and Kraig....UPDATE...I did the test with meter...12 volts across battery...no voltage across + & - on coil...Uncovered the points, turned over engine and no spark...I ran a jump wire from + at Battery to + on coil,,turned over engine and no spark at points. I tested the spark plug last night and there was no spark. Does the "no spark" at the points tell me it is the coil that is bad ?
 
Charles-

Put your meter on the ohm setting and see what the resistance between the + and - terminals is. Disconnect both leads from the coil first. It should be some finite number. If it's infinity or zero, the coil is bad.
 
KENDELL - To add to Your excellent instructions on the manual PTO, used clutch discs tend to not drag as much as new ones, plus the instructions say there should be clearance between the thrust button and center pin in the clutch, I think the exact measurement is "Thickness of a match book cover". My local dealer has a box of matches on the parts counter next to the cash register.... I always pick up a couple PTO adjusting gauges every trip!
 
Matt....removed wires from + /- posts on coil and got no ohm reading on the meter
 
I'm new asking for help. I ahve a 10hp. Cub Cadet(I gather this is a 100) that I use for plowing snow.I need to know which manuals to buy? Lately the clutch has been sticking and won't release.The clutch doesn't seem to slip as I can push until I lose traction. I have approx 100lbs of wheel weight total.There doesn't seem to be a pattern for this. I push in the pedal and release and the tractor won't move. i 'jerk' the pedal and sometimes the clutch releases.I searched previous postings and didn't find this problem. I'm new to this tractor so I need some direction. thanks Bob.
 
Charles-

Make sure you try it on the lowest (0-10 ohms on my meter) setting...I *think* the resistance should be about 4-6 ohms or something like that. If you're really getting zero, the coil is shorted internally, and that is probably your problem.
 
Last few days I've seen people chatting about PTOs.
Electric vs Manual. My question is:
Which one is better and why?
Personlly I like the manual as it can be rebuilt. Can an electric be rebuilt?

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I prefer the manual pto's because: 1.i only own NF's. 2. you can starta mower of blower slowly and with ease, whereas an electric pto is instantly. I would always worry about a belt or another possibly expensive part breaking. Yes they are expensive to buy rebuilt ones or to have them rebuilt; but in my head they're still better.
 
robert welcome! im not very good with clutches but im sure someone else will have an answer... your not too awful far from me, my sister is looking at houses out your way.
 
Josh the song goes "Big 35's windin' on the asphalt...not 33's lol
 
I see a conspiracy here, all the implement dealers in the country got together and said (these mechanical PTO's are so good they will never fail, we better build an electrical PTO so we can make tons of money. I'm sure that is the only reason they all changed.
 
Matt, I was just waiting for you to bring that up. My truck has 33's on it, remember?
 
I've had both electric and manual PTO (LOTS of both) and overall, I've had less issues with the electric PTOs. They're simple, have few parts, and are easy to trouble shoot. The air gap is either right or wrong, and the coil/wiring either works or doesn't. Replacement of an electric clutch can be a lot more expensive than overhauling a mechanical clutch, although the coils can be rewound if you're patient. There's a ton of parts in the mechanical clutch, they can be finicky to adjust, and they have to be rebuilt from time to time. They are generally much more difficult to remove than the electric clutch. Only the brake style stops immediately when you shut off the attachment...all the earlier ones spin for a long time afterwards. It's nice to be able to ease the mechanical clutches on. On the electric, there is no position between off and on. As long as you're near idle when engaging the electric clutch, there isn't much danger of breaking anything.

All in all...I prefer the electric clutches. They have been more maintenance-free for me. I've only had one coil go bad, and it was my fault it became open.
 
Dennis, thanks for the information about the regular vs. copper gasket. Yes, the cylinder is bored 0.020 over by my caliper but I have only taken the head off. Both the head and cylinder are pretty clean but I will remove the carbon. I don't plan on taking it apart any more than that.
This site is the only one I read as a new Cub owner and a guy who likes to tinker in the garage. Thanks again,
Brian
 
RICHARD C. - I think the switch to elec. PTO's had more to do with OSHA's requirement for "No Cut in Reverse". but I know what Your saying. ;-) Having been around full scale ag equip. all my life, both with LPTO & transmission driven PTO's I prefer the mech. PTO's, I know why IHC/CC had to incorporate brakes on the PTO, and I actually find them silly and unneeded as well. Only takes a second or two for anything I run with the PTO to slow to a stop. If I need to work on or adjust the attachment I shut the tractor off as the ops manual says.

And don't get Me started on IHC's "Free Gas Cap" program which I found out a month ago is STILL going on after 20+ yrs. A stand-up comic routine by Ron White come immediately to mind!
 
My ZTR has a big Ogura clutch for the deck drive.. I shudder every time I engage it, especially if I've got the vac blower mounted also, as that drives off the RH spindle...
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BTW -the expanded version of BTDT is BTDTGTTSATIA
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Brian M:
Remember that the accurate way to measure the bore is using a set of snap gages, measuring top, middle and bottom, both parallel and 90 degrees from parallel to the crank. It'll be larger at the bottom and larger 90 degrees from crank direction as the piston rocks....
 

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