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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Nathan,

Crack the lines, let the fluid that's there run out, then cap or tape any open ends to avoid contamination. Cycle the valve a few times (engine off) to relieve any trapped pressure before your begin.
 
Thanks Charlie! I like your description. I'll just add some wheel weights like I wanted. I kinda guessed that as long as I operate the tractor normally it wouldn't cause a problem. But I didn't know if there was a limit to watch out for. Maybe I'll go three weights per wheel if I can find another set
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Bruce, I forget who that tractor belongs to, I'll have to search my archive to see if I can find out. Here are some images from the Brinly spring assist manual.
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Cool catch, Kevin!

The non-title snowmobile trailer shouldn't be a problem- just go out, clean up the paint a bit, fix any broken welds, then tell the DMV that you built it... they'll assign you a new title!
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Question for the experts. I am getting a little frustrated with this problem.
Went to start my 1650 and it will hardly turn over. Took the battery to the store and they tested it and it is fine. Checked the voltage drop from the positive post of the battery to the positive post of the starter and have about a 0.5V to 0.75V drop. Also did the same with the negative side of the battery to the case of the starter and had about 0.3 to 0.4V drop. This doesn't seem too bad but maybe I am wrong. The starter just does not seem to be able to turn the motor over. I replaced the brushes about a year ago. I think that I am overlooking something real obvious so any ideas will be helpful.
Thanks
Seth
 
BLyons-Thanks for the info. It's a good start. I'll talk to him about the rest. Good luck to you guys as well. If you get any pics along the way, it would be great to see.
 
Steve B--Thanks for the info. that's what I thought, but it's always nice to know that it is going to work or is correct. I'll be doing that later this aft.
 
NEIL - What color tractor does that "Other Guy" run? Bet He just doesn't want your old 782 showing up His (Pick a color) High priced tractor.
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With just two little sets of IHC weights, 50+/-# per wheel even with chains it'd be really hard to hurt one of these little tractors. I was running just over 90#/wheel on My tired old gear-drive 72 the other day, with chains on turf tires I was getting along fine with the blower. I think hanging 300-400# off the back of a CC is a little excessive but I've seen them lead long & productive lifes that way also. Till Your total tractor weight gets over 1200-1500# I wouldn't worry.
 
Seth: Were your tests under starting load?? If not, install a new ground cable direct from the neg terminal of the battery to the mounting bracket of the S/G. Been there - done that...In the 1650, the problem is where the ground cable connects to the fender/frame "sandwich". Corrosion builds up between those layers after many years and will refuse to pass heavy loads of electrons. You'll really have to clean that up thoroughly so that no impedance remains. Try to get away from the "sandwich" & use the frame only.
Myron B

(Message edited by mbounds on January 11, 2005)
 
Seth Collins
A quick check to see where your problem is would be to use a GOOD pair of Jumper cables and connect a known good battery directly to the starter. With the Clutch down and locked, connect the plus and minus cable leads to the battery, connect the plus cable lead to the starter terminal and then momentary connect the negative lead to the starter where it bolts to the engine.

If it spins over easy you have cable or connection problems. If it still turns over slow you have a bad starter or compression release on the engine.

When trouble shooting always try to start as simple as you can and going directly to the starter eliminates a lot of stuff.
 
Myron,
The starter was under load. Now thinking about it a little more-- The starter did seem to stop at one particular spot. But if I got past it I would get a few revs. Also if I let it set a little bit then it seemed to want to start a little more. I did have the battery charger on the battery too.
Seth
 
Seth- the voltage drop you measured implies a pretty big resistance for those cables... it should be in the 0.01 range or less. Clean posts, replace cables, etc., and try again.

BTW- the 'stopping at one place' sounds kinda like the engine 'firing' on approach to Top Dead Center, and kicking back a little bit. Mine do that, and after checking ignition timing MANY times, and adjusting a tad one way or the other, I think it's predominantly the result of engine just not turning over fast enough. I suspect it's a Kohler thing.
 
Nice photos Steve...
That is the best lookin tractor I've ever seen..I mean the red one....
 
Kurt,

I won't disagree!!!! It likes the W-I-D-E blade too, lots of fun in our recent "dry" snow!!!!
 
Dennis...he runs a Gravely garden tractor. Pretty tough tractor...but I still like the front engine Cubs. He uses no weights on the rear wheels. But he must not be aware of the strength of the 782 rear end and hydro drive. I'll just have to show him I suppose.

If I go 100 total on the wheels, and 100 in suitcase on a custom rear rack...that should do real well in snow and not hurt a thing. I only weigh 175 so I need some help on the back!!
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Neil, Wyatt C., used to run with more than a "few" weights on his Cub when at Plow Day...
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Well I got out to take some pictures of my new 125 today, its not at home yet so thats why its out in the snow still.

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Kevin D2, you should ask them where the cab is! It has the brackets for the IH Windbreaker cab.....
 

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