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Archive through January 04, 2009
- Thread starter theaton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Well I was working on a 107 to covert it over to hydro ported trans and with a 16 hp kohler. The frame is notched out just like the 147. I need more power for throwing snow and log splitting. Also to pull in dead vehicles into the auto shop I own. Right now I own a 107(grass cutter), 147( the bull, snowthrower, snowplower, shop pullin tractor, and the project 107/169 with hydro lift (soon to be) would like to make it a micro backhoe out of it. Already did the front axle swap and spindles. And notched the frame for the 16hp kohler. Just need to do the transmission and pump swap yet. A 149 would be a nice addition to the cub family. My first wide front. Then I might just have to buy another one for parts then.
There is talk at work about what to do with the old cub parts. I did hear about clearing out the room to make room for a driver's lounge. One of the parts guys said they might just throw out the parts in scrap dumpster. If that is the case I will be CUB DUMPSTER DIVING for sure. I'm trying to talk to the owner on letting me have the pick of the room 1st. But I'm the only one interested in them so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If by somereason I was able to get up there again just to look what parts are the hardest to get besides electric lift parts? please let me as soon as possible. Brandon
Brandon, If I were you I would try to get all of the parts regardless of what they are, if they are cub parts, the guys on here would certainly buy the ones they needed! I would talk to your boss about getting the whole lot of them! Just think of the parts as an investment!
dlamoureux
Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2008
- Messages
- 16
- displayname
- David Lamoureux
Hello Guys. I have two quick questions.
What was the stock rim size for the rear wheels on a 106?
Was there an additional size option for the rear rims?
Lammy
What was the stock rim size for the rear wheels on a 106?
Was there an additional size option for the rear rims?
Lammy
mfrade
Well-known member
Denny, I know of course that you're right. It doesn't make it any easier or better imho... After 20 years of buying my parts with the same crew it all goes away because you don't sell enough?? Where's the loyalty in that? I know it's just business. But I will remember that lack of loyalty. They can keep their 50th Anniv. model. I'm glad they support what they can for machines they didn't even build, but they don't build'em like IH did!
Hi. I know of a red cub cadet mower. It is a running machine, mowed nice, nice shape for the year. Is missing a hood. The guy that owns it had a bad key switch so got one at napa and wired it in. Well he got one of the wires hooked up wrong and had smoke coming from the engine. He pulled flywheel and found a wire burned off. Fixed that but still doesnt have spark to engine. Can anyone tell me what we need to remedy this?
Here are #s off engine and machine.
Engine
Model 191707 5677 Type 01 Code 82021212
Mower
Model 132 182 399 Serial #03500300072315
Thanks for any information you might have.
Dominic
Here are #s off engine and machine.
Engine
Model 191707 5677 Type 01 Code 82021212
Mower
Model 132 182 399 Serial #03500300072315
Thanks for any information you might have.
Dominic
Charlie- I forgive you man. Thanks for the link, I didn't see it on my earlier searches.
Now about my charging system. How should I trouble shoot it? If the stator windings are bad I imagine I have big trouble, if it is the voltage regulator that should be replaceable? But how do I test them? Also I had some trouble with the ignition switch when I first got this thing and I see that the charging circuit passes through it, can I pick up a new one at napa and maybe solve all my trouble?
-everettdale
Now about my charging system. How should I trouble shoot it? If the stator windings are bad I imagine I have big trouble, if it is the voltage regulator that should be replaceable? But how do I test them? Also I had some trouble with the ignition switch when I first got this thing and I see that the charging circuit passes through it, can I pick up a new one at napa and maybe solve all my trouble?
-everettdale
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Steve-
Nice tractor! I have it's twin here. Same AG tires and all. Now you just need some wheel weights...
OK, does anybody have a fix for this???
I had to remove the grill-shell and accidentally pulled the prong off the headlight in the process. Obviously it needs to be re-soldered, but how do I heat up the head-light stud without wrecking the bulb in the process?
Nice tractor! I have it's twin here. Same AG tires and all. Now you just need some wheel weights...
OK, does anybody have a fix for this???
I had to remove the grill-shell and accidentally pulled the prong off the headlight in the process. Obviously it needs to be re-soldered, but how do I heat up the head-light stud without wrecking the bulb in the process?
DAVID L. - Stock rear tires on a 106 were probably 6-12 Good Year turf tires on 4-1/2" wide x 12" dia wheels. Optional were 23-8.50 X 12 turf tires of either GY, BFG, or Firestone brand, I've seen all three, on a 7" x 12" wheel. But I doubt many of the 106's actually came on the 6-12 tires, most I have seen have had the 23-8.50's, with the 4.00/4.80 X 8 frts. Also optional were 16-6.50 x 8 frts.
BRANDON K. - I noticed a Cub Cadet for sale in the classifieds here yesterday that was selling complete with a P.F. Engineering designed loader AND backhoe. You REALLY wanted another CC didn't You? Can't remember what model of CC it was on but looked really nice.
MIKE F. - Unfortunately the "GOOD OLD IH Dealers" are all long gone. I clearly remember the Parts Guy at the IH dealer in My home town. I was about 14-15 yrs old...walked in one day after school and asked for a Temp gauge for My Super H. He didn't even turn around to look in a parts book, just reached behind Him and grabbed the part off the shelf and set it on the counter and started writing up the bill. Another time Dad & I walked in and described what We wanted to do.....put a tach on the Super H like the IH 300/350's had. He turned around and walked back into the rows of parts shelves a step or two and grabbed a small box maybe 8-10 inches square. Walked back and set it on the counter. It had the correct used distributor drive housing to run a tach off a 350, a drive cable, and a brand new mechanical tack for a 350 still in the factory box with zero hours on the hour meter. He made Dad a deal on the whole box of stuff, it was My Birthday present in about 1969. He had the stuff all ready because He was going to put the tach on the H He used on His little farming operation right on the edge of town. But the Paying Customer came first. Those kinds of people are still around, several of them post frequently on the RPM forum, And several post here too. It's just really sad that there's so many who really don't care about this old stuff.
It's funny, the part I remember asking for most frequently at that IH dealer was the head gasket for the K161 in the CC 70. I think the block was warped....but it would blow about once a month....I got so I could replace it in about 15 minutes one summer. Following summer it got a complete K181 replacement motor.
BRANDON K. - I noticed a Cub Cadet for sale in the classifieds here yesterday that was selling complete with a P.F. Engineering designed loader AND backhoe. You REALLY wanted another CC didn't You? Can't remember what model of CC it was on but looked really nice.
MIKE F. - Unfortunately the "GOOD OLD IH Dealers" are all long gone. I clearly remember the Parts Guy at the IH dealer in My home town. I was about 14-15 yrs old...walked in one day after school and asked for a Temp gauge for My Super H. He didn't even turn around to look in a parts book, just reached behind Him and grabbed the part off the shelf and set it on the counter and started writing up the bill. Another time Dad & I walked in and described what We wanted to do.....put a tach on the Super H like the IH 300/350's had. He turned around and walked back into the rows of parts shelves a step or two and grabbed a small box maybe 8-10 inches square. Walked back and set it on the counter. It had the correct used distributor drive housing to run a tach off a 350, a drive cable, and a brand new mechanical tack for a 350 still in the factory box with zero hours on the hour meter. He made Dad a deal on the whole box of stuff, it was My Birthday present in about 1969. He had the stuff all ready because He was going to put the tach on the H He used on His little farming operation right on the edge of town. But the Paying Customer came first. Those kinds of people are still around, several of them post frequently on the RPM forum, And several post here too. It's just really sad that there's so many who really don't care about this old stuff.
It's funny, the part I remember asking for most frequently at that IH dealer was the head gasket for the K161 in the CC 70. I think the block was warped....but it would blow about once a month....I got so I could replace it in about 15 minutes one summer. Following summer it got a complete K181 replacement motor.
ART - I had that happen on one of the headlights on My Super H last winter....I tried soldering it a couple times...finally replaced the sealed beam.
You could possibly try to crimp the copper strip slightly on the post where it attaches and then with a small, maybe 40W soldering iron try to get a dab of solder on just the post & clip. Too much heat and You'll unsolder something futher down stream as You know.
Problem I had with the Super H is the wires for the sealed beam had to exit the headlight housing really close to where they attached to the sealed beam but couldn't touch the housing because they'd short out. You've got lots of room, so Your chance of success is MUCH better.
You could possibly try to crimp the copper strip slightly on the post where it attaches and then with a small, maybe 40W soldering iron try to get a dab of solder on just the post & clip. Too much heat and You'll unsolder something futher down stream as You know.
Problem I had with the Super H is the wires for the sealed beam had to exit the headlight housing really close to where they attached to the sealed beam but couldn't touch the housing because they'd short out. You've got lots of room, so Your chance of success is MUCH better.
Art A, the light you have there is a simple fix !I posted back about glue used to repair heater defroster in a car back window. Had a broken 1 here and went to local parts place and bought a glue that would repair the break,it worked for me and was cheaper than replacement glass. and cold solder? later Don T
Off to town to get a piece of threaded rod and make a lift rod for my 54" blade
Off to town to get a piece of threaded rod and make a lift rod for my 54" blade
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Art- I think Don's got the right idea - <font size="-2">(looking around for the Grump)</font> - try a buildup of JB Weld over the repair job to strengthen it...
Dennis - I knew our local Cub Dealer was in trouble a few years ago when they moved from the old IH Dealership building, to a storefront on the other side of town and became strictly a L&G store. They still had the old parts stock, and Paul could reach into the parts bin without looking at the books, but with a big box store right across the road, it was only a matter of time.. (they've been gone about three years now..)
Dennis - I knew our local Cub Dealer was in trouble a few years ago when they moved from the old IH Dealership building, to a storefront on the other side of town and became strictly a L&G store. They still had the old parts stock, and Paul could reach into the parts bin without looking at the books, but with a big box store right across the road, it was only a matter of time.. (they've been gone about three years now..)
Art, solder away, I believe the parts inside the bulb are welded not soldered. Get a hot iron and use silver solder, it's stronger and has a higher melting temp. In order to get enough heat into the terminal you'll want to remove the wire. Also, clean up the terminal and remove any tarnishing. If you have some solder flux paste use that so that the solder flows nicely and sticks better. Or go to Fleet Farm and buy a new bulb for $4.
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
Brenden, interesting log splitter concept. I'd, of course, have to use a 1x4/5 series chassis, a "125 WS". I take it your concept uses the lift arm to operate the hydraulic valve. Great food for thought.
