Steve M., looks like an all original Original with a home built snow/dozer blade. Can you post a few photos that show the snow/dozer blade mount in more detail?
Archive through January 04, 2009
- Thread starter theaton
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Keith, good point about the seat, I was looking at it as having not been restored. If we're going there, the front tires appear to be wheel barrow tires.
Steve, I was just curious to see how the blade is attached. Nice job on the SO76 hood.
Steve, I was just curious to see how the blade is attached. Nice job on the SO76 hood.
Cory, why do you think your 106 is loosing compression? You could try Yamaha Ring Free, (<--- it's expensive!), Marvel Mystery Oil, or Sea Foam in the gas, if your rings are sticking one of these might free them up. It will take several tanks before you'll see any results, if any.
Under edit ---> <FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
Under edit ---> <FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
I don't know that I'd call creepers on Originals "rare", but they were optional equipment like fenders, rear lifts and lights so they are not as plentiful. They do show up for sale now and again. Now, if it was an M&W 9 speed that would be rare...
i was just wondering i have saw lots of orignals an thats the first one i saw with the creeper i have saw pis of them i had it parked out back for a few days an i had 4 guys stop an try to buy it from me thats y i was wondering
Cory O,
I assume your conclusion on loss compression is based on a loss of power. Loss of compression could be due to a blown head gasket, a sticky valve not completely seating due to carbon build up or your ACR not disengaging once it starts. You could try squirting some M-M Oil in the intake while running to see if that helps with a sticky valve and mix some in the gas per the directions too.
Blown head gaskets can easily be replaced if that's your problem and it will also give you a chance clean off any carbon buildup on the head, piston and valves and generally inspect the condition of your engine. Be careful removing your head bolts and use penetrating oil so you don't break any off.
Loss of power could also be attributed to your points gap/timing being off so you might want to get a new set of points if your haven't replaced them in many years and set the gap at .020".
I assume your conclusion on loss compression is based on a loss of power. Loss of compression could be due to a blown head gasket, a sticky valve not completely seating due to carbon build up or your ACR not disengaging once it starts. You could try squirting some M-M Oil in the intake while running to see if that helps with a sticky valve and mix some in the gas per the directions too.
Blown head gaskets can easily be replaced if that's your problem and it will also give you a chance clean off any carbon buildup on the head, piston and valves and generally inspect the condition of your engine. Be careful removing your head bolts and use penetrating oil so you don't break any off.
Loss of power could also be attributed to your points gap/timing being off so you might want to get a new set of points if your haven't replaced them in many years and set the gap at .020".
bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Art...Did the same thing to my 102 this year, too much of a hurry. I ended up soldering it back on. Just make sure it's real clean and I used flux paste. Worked good.
Kraig...Yep, lift handle operates direction valve. The two stage pump is under the clutch scatter shield.
This little project started across the street when someone was looking for ideas. I was bored so came up with this. I may have to make one from a 1250, only because I have the remains of one.
Kraig...Yep, lift handle operates direction valve. The two stage pump is under the clutch scatter shield.
This little project started across the street when someone was looking for ideas. I was bored so came up with this. I may have to make one from a 1250, only because I have the remains of one.
Brendan, hmmm, I do have a spare 7hp Kohler, with that engine it would be a "72 WS" except the donor chassis would be a high tunnel not a low tunnel and would have a fiberglass dash. The tunnel would go away and be replaced with a heavy duty I-beam so the high tunnel wouldn't matter, but that still leaves the dash. I know, I could call it a "SGWS". (Nick, that would be a Slant Grill Wood Splitter.) Hey, if the grill/dash was reversed, you could install headlights and then you could use the splitter at night.... Naw, bad idea.
Art,
A good ole fashioned Weller gun and 20 seconds and your good to go. BTDT.
A good ole fashioned Weller gun and 20 seconds and your good to go. BTDT.
Art, if you are solder challenged, I'll do your soldering repair for a future welding repair, say welding one of my 125's trunions.
To answer some questions about the bigger cubs and lo boys. they are same tractors. With two exceptions. The cubs have a drop front axle and the rear end housing are turned down for more clearance for cultivating while the lo boys had a straight front axle and the rear end housings were rotated 90* to match ride height with the front, lower ground clearance. Mainly used for lawn mowing.
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- Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
Did someone say TRUNION REPAIR? Watch in the next few days for a trunion repair part coming available.
