Archive through February 24, 2008
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Speaking of cracks, I just pulled the engine from a 1650 that was prone to vibrate a little more than usual. It was missing one engine bolt and the remaining three consisted of one fine threaded bolt and two course threaded bolts. The snubbers and three of the rubber iso mounts were gone except for the metal parts and the frame was barely bolted to anything. It shook like CRAZY!
But my question is, are there other places in a quietline (besides what Richard pointed out) that are prone to cracking? I'd like to take care of any problems while I'm at it. I haven't looked to closely yet, there is still about an inch of gunk all over everything that I need to clean off first.
But my question is, are there other places in a quietline (besides what Richard pointed out) that are prone to cracking? I'd like to take care of any problems while I'm at it. I haven't looked to closely yet, there is still about an inch of gunk all over everything that I need to clean off first.
KENtucky, thanks. Hmmmm, I'll have to check with Luther to see if he wants a possum, I doubt it, so I'll have to dispose of it some other way. I wonder if dropping it off at Art's place is considered proper disposal.
Richard, ouch! Someone sure abused that poor QL.
I'll have a closer look behind the axle channel. From the photos I took it looks pretty good there. The only place that looks at all questionable is on the left rear mounting hole. I' can't tell from the photo if it's just the line where the paint chipped off or if it might be a crack. I'll have a closer look tonight.
Richard, ouch! Someone sure abused that poor QL.
KENtucky, ah! After a closer look, now that I know where to look, there might just be a crack there. I'll have to clean it up a little more for a better look. Thank you! Glad you didn't break your neck.
Thanks, but no thanks on the Possum recipes. I see there's one there for Graeme.
Thanks, but no thanks on the Possum recipes. I see there's one there for Graeme.
KENtucky, I hope it's not cracked. Here's where I'm looking, just to the left of the red line noted by the two arrows.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kraig-
I don't see one either. Typically cracks start at an edge or at a hole or weld or something, not in the middle of nowhere.
I don't see one either. Typically cracks start at an edge or at a hole or weld or something, not in the middle of nowhere.
Matt, look at the photo of KENtucky's 122 where it cracked. The line I see is in the same location, at the edge of the axle channel that is underneath the frame. Note the axle channel does not go full width, there is a cutout for the bump stop on the axle, here's a photo of the bottom of a narrow frame axle channel, this one belongs to "Big Bob" I HOPE there isn't a crack there! I'll find out when I have a better look tonight.
Shane, yes Art does have a nice welder and has in the past done welding for me, he welded my AC 620 loader. If that is a crack hopefully Art will still be willing to do welding for me, maybe I better not toss the possum in his yard. Maybe I should cook it first.
I wonder which he'd prefer; Possum and Taters or Possum Pot Pie....
I wonder which he'd prefer; Possum and Taters or Possum Pot Pie....
Kraig - Sorry I ran out on you but I went to get more OSB and 2x4s to build more shelving then I took the blast cabinet out the front door around to the back of the shop. There's a perfectly cluttered up corner just waiting to be cleaned out for it 
I'm pretty good at spotting cracks (use to make my living at it) but I think you're okay on that frame.
<font size="-2">Okay no crack jokes!</font>
Richard - On your craked frame , I'm not so sure it developed a second crack. I think they missed the orginal crack the first time they welded it. I've seen aluminum boats come in here just like that were they MISSED the crack with a MIG
I'm pretty good at spotting cracks (use to make my living at it) but I think you're okay on that frame.
<font size="-2">Okay no crack jokes!</font>
Richard - On your craked frame , I'm not so sure it developed a second crack. I think they missed the orginal crack the first time they welded it. I've seen aluminum boats come in here just like that were they MISSED the crack with a MIG
A question on replaceing the head gasket on a 10hp Kohler.
How long do I waite to retork the headbolts to 30 foot pounds after running the motor for 15 minutes per the Kohler manual?
The manual says to let motor cool down, but for how long?
Does the motor need to be completely cold again?
I ask because I am on the 3rd head gasket in this motor and have always found the headbolts loose.
I am also replaceing the head with a different one I purchased from a fellow forum member.
How long do I waite to retork the headbolts to 30 foot pounds after running the motor for 15 minutes per the Kohler manual?
The manual says to let motor cool down, but for how long?
Does the motor need to be completely cold again?
I ask because I am on the 3rd head gasket in this motor and have always found the headbolts loose.
I am also replaceing the head with a different one I purchased from a fellow forum member.
Lonny-
Others may have had other luck, but I've always just torqued to 35 without retorqe and been just fine (new fasteners and quality SAE washers as well)
BTW- After 3 gaskets, I'm assuming you've checked the block for flatness?
<font size="-2">and I hope I'm giving good advice, I'm the "fellow forum member" in question</font>
Others may have had other luck, but I've always just torqued to 35 without retorqe and been just fine (new fasteners and quality SAE washers as well)
BTW- After 3 gaskets, I'm assuming you've checked the block for flatness?
<font size="-2">and I hope I'm giving good advice, I'm the "fellow forum member" in question</font>
This is the 105 that my son-in-law put his version of hyd. lift on some years ago. It has down pressure and tended to bend the stop bracket. The control handle is barely visible right under the front edge of the seat. It hasn't run in about 5 years. I had intentions of restoring it but now it is sold and will be picked up Saturday.
William B.
You gotta hit the enter key after each pic.
You gotta hit the enter key after each pic.
Wyatt,
The head I purchased from you is the one I am useing this time around.
Was useing orginal head from motor the first 3 head gaskets.
And no I have not checked the block for flattness, how does one go about doing that?
I am useing new grade 8 bolts for the 4 head bolts and new grade 8 nuts on the 5 studs.
This time around also.
The head I purchased from you is the one I am useing this time around.
Was useing orginal head from motor the first 3 head gaskets.
And no I have not checked the block for flattness, how does one go about doing that?
I am useing new grade 8 bolts for the 4 head bolts and new grade 8 nuts on the 5 studs.
This time around also.
KENtucky, I hit that area for a few seconds with my angle grinder with wire cup brush to clean it up. No crack!
Some of what appears to be rust in the photo was a build up of grease. The line I was seeing turned out to be an indent in the grease where the oil pan sat. I guess I didn't abuse this Cub when I was a kid as much as I thought I had, that or these Cubs are just plain tough!
Lonny B,
I used a Snap-On (or equivalent) straight edge to check my 12hp block before installing the head. I dont know what the allowable warpage spec is. You could check the amount of warpage with the straight edge across the top of the block. With the straight edge on the block, use a set of feeler gauges under the straight edge to check for warpage. Also, if you don't have feeler gauges put the straight edge on the block and useing a drop light on the opposite side of the straight edge. Check to see if any light can be seen under the straight edge. Good Luck!
I used a Snap-On (or equivalent) straight edge to check my 12hp block before installing the head. I dont know what the allowable warpage spec is. You could check the amount of warpage with the straight edge across the top of the block. With the straight edge on the block, use a set of feeler gauges under the straight edge to check for warpage. Also, if you don't have feeler gauges put the straight edge on the block and useing a drop light on the opposite side of the straight edge. Check to see if any light can be seen under the straight edge. Good Luck!
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