Timothy G.,
Like these?
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200304487_200304487
Ryan W
Like these?
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200304487_200304487
Ryan W
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Archive through February 24, 2007
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Lee E.,
THANKS A TON FOR THE EXCELLENT PICS!
If you don't mind, I've got a couple of questions:
1) It appears to me that your vertical tubing was at least 36" tall, correct?
2) How much oil did you put into the tubing, enough to bring the level up from the bottom of the "U" about 15" on each side?
3) If I'm reading it correctly, you ended up with 9.0" of "lift" or vacuum on the engine side with your test run. Then you multiplied that value by 0.9, which = 8.1" According to the Service Manual , they call for an adequate test reading of 5" - 10" of vacuum (which seems pretty wide to me). Nevertheless, your result was within those limits. So I'm guessing you were you happy with the test?
4) Do you think you'll perform the test periodically to track the condition of your engine?
5) If you (or I) were to use fuel oil instead of 3-in-1 oil, would you use the same 0.9 correction factor?
Thanks again, Eric, for the great information!
Ryan W
THANKS A TON FOR THE EXCELLENT PICS!
If you don't mind, I've got a couple of questions:
1) It appears to me that your vertical tubing was at least 36" tall, correct?
2) How much oil did you put into the tubing, enough to bring the level up from the bottom of the "U" about 15" on each side?
3) If I'm reading it correctly, you ended up with 9.0" of "lift" or vacuum on the engine side with your test run. Then you multiplied that value by 0.9, which = 8.1" According to the Service Manual , they call for an adequate test reading of 5" - 10" of vacuum (which seems pretty wide to me). Nevertheless, your result was within those limits. So I'm guessing you were you happy with the test?
4) Do you think you'll perform the test periodically to track the condition of your engine?
5) If you (or I) were to use fuel oil instead of 3-in-1 oil, would you use the same 0.9 correction factor?
Thanks again, Eric, for the great information!
Ryan W
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Just looked at weather for upper mid-west. Anybody near minniap/StPaul better hunker down, think you gonna get buried soon. Seat time guys!
ljerickson
Well-known member
Hey Ryan,
Here's my suggestions:
1) Buy about 10 ft of tubing. It's cheap.
2) I just poured enough oil into the tube to bring the level up to about a foot and half. In fact I got too much in the first try. After I poured some out the oil column seperated. This problem was solved by pushing a long piece of baling wire down the tube.
3) I have some plans to use this tractor next summer. I think this test is good enough to delay an overhaul until next winter anyway.
4) After I do an overhaul, I'll probably do a reference test. This tractor is likely to have an easy life after this. But might do some tests if it get used some.
5) Kerosene has a specific gravity of 0.82. Fuel oil runs from about 0.90 to 0.99. I doubt this test is all that accurate. Pick a number and go with that.
Lee
Here's my suggestions:
1) Buy about 10 ft of tubing. It's cheap.
2) I just poured enough oil into the tube to bring the level up to about a foot and half. In fact I got too much in the first try. After I poured some out the oil column seperated. This problem was solved by pushing a long piece of baling wire down the tube.
3) I have some plans to use this tractor next summer. I think this test is good enough to delay an overhaul until next winter anyway.
4) After I do an overhaul, I'll probably do a reference test. This tractor is likely to have an easy life after this. But might do some tests if it get used some.
5) Kerosene has a specific gravity of 0.82. Fuel oil runs from about 0.90 to 0.99. I doubt this test is all that accurate. Pick a number and go with that.
Lee
Allen S.
You don't have to that far north!
It was funny today watching the wife go to the truck, get the ice scraper out and do the living room windows,LOL
After the power came back on that is!
Ran the generator for about 4 hours today, when the whole county went out.
You don't have to that far north!
It was funny today watching the wife go to the truck, get the ice scraper out and do the living room windows,LOL
After the power came back on that is!
Ran the generator for about 4 hours today, when the whole county went out.
tgallagher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 79
- displayname
- Timothy S. Gallagher
He's got the right color...
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Steve T, looks like your son ran out of fuel and now running on 'battery backup'.
Yes the snow sure is adding up here in Minneapolis. The 1650 has ben getting a good workout today, but no problems at all. I wish my blower was working, the drifts are getting quite large from me pushing the snow into them.
"Oh what fun it is to ride and sing a sleighing song tonight..." It's bad here right now, went from blinding snow to freezing rain/sleet. My friend got his loader fixed and had some seat time about 1/2 hour ago, it's not a cub so I won't say anymore but I'm not looking forward to tomorrow and tomorrow night.
STAY WARM GUYS/GALS!
STAY WARM GUYS/GALS!
Hi guys,hope everybody has electricity. Hard to work on cub with no heat. snow is only 4-6 so far, but as it is coming down I remembered the snowthrower was in repair mode. So at 11:00pm I went to put it in working order. Now both red unit are ready. Time for some fun.
I'm sure you'll have some good blower pics for us won't ya Charlie! That 1450 will do good I bet. I should make a weekend out of visiting you and we can mount the loader on one of your many 1250's,lol. You can have some fun too then!
rbedell
Well-known member
Rob F:
"Is there a typo in the specification for the 3 point hitch? Is it 450lbs or 450lbf as in 450lbs a foot?"
No Typo....LBF is referred to as "pounds of force". In layman's terms, it is the amount of mass (weight) plus the force (gravity) that the hitch will lift and maintain.
"Is there a typo in the specification for the 3 point hitch? Is it 450lbs or 450lbf as in 450lbs a foot?"
No Typo....LBF is referred to as "pounds of force". In layman's terms, it is the amount of mass (weight) plus the force (gravity) that the hitch will lift and maintain.
rbedell
Well-known member
Ryan W:
In my line of work, I use a U Tube Manameter all the time. I have purchased a commercial grade meter (Dwyer 1227).
You can build one with a piece of plywood, some 1/4" polyvinyl tubing, clamps, and a ruler (see attached drawing).
I have taken the drawing in the Kohler Manual and enhanced it. I have added a shut-off valve. (I don't care for that clamp idea).
Build the gauge as noted.
To conduct the test as described, fill the U Tube with water and "zero" out (both legs are equal and at zero). You have two options at this point:
(A) Start engine and throttle to 3600RPM THEN stick the cork wedge into the dipstick tube.
OR
(B) Install cork in the dipstick tube at the beginning. Make sure shut-off valve is in the "OFF" position. Start & throttle up. Once at 3600 RPM, then open the shut-off valve and take your reading.
Either way it will give the condition of the crankcase in terms of Water Column Inches.
I see all these alternative fluids and I guess I don't know why these are being used. Water is the most accurate or an equivalent (Dwyer #A-101 Gauge Oil). For the purist, you can use distilled water for the most accurate reading. Considering the acceptable range (- 5 to -10 WC") good ole tap water will work just fine.
In my line of work, I use a U Tube Manameter all the time. I have purchased a commercial grade meter (Dwyer 1227).
You can build one with a piece of plywood, some 1/4" polyvinyl tubing, clamps, and a ruler (see attached drawing).
I have taken the drawing in the Kohler Manual and enhanced it. I have added a shut-off valve. (I don't care for that clamp idea).
Build the gauge as noted.
To conduct the test as described, fill the U Tube with water and "zero" out (both legs are equal and at zero). You have two options at this point:
(A) Start engine and throttle to 3600RPM THEN stick the cork wedge into the dipstick tube.
OR
(B) Install cork in the dipstick tube at the beginning. Make sure shut-off valve is in the "OFF" position. Start & throttle up. Once at 3600 RPM, then open the shut-off valve and take your reading.
Either way it will give the condition of the crankcase in terms of Water Column Inches.
I see all these alternative fluids and I guess I don't know why these are being used. Water is the most accurate or an equivalent (Dwyer #A-101 Gauge Oil). For the purist, you can use distilled water for the most accurate reading. Considering the acceptable range (- 5 to -10 WC") good ole tap water will work just fine.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
This is how it looks outside our place right now. It's raining and the snow is starting to get heavy. Sure is a strange sound that the town truck is maing while it cleans the streets. Lots of bent trees and limbs on the ground.This is gonna be one those days that I wish our cats could drive one of the tractors.
