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Archive through February 23, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ljones

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
737
Location
Kentucky
displayname
Lucas Jones
Kraig nice original in your profile pic What size brinly plow is that?
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On my original it has the same tires yours does
mine are made by goodyear do they still make that type of tread? I also noticed you have no wheel weights or ag tires do you get good traction on mine I get horible traction mostly becaus they are drierotted and worn down.
 
I need a hydro release lever for my wideframe can any one give me some measurments of this?
I would like to try to make one before i have to spend money to buy one.
 
Lucas, thank you! That would be a 10" Brinly with the old style frame. That was garden soil (sandy clay loam with lots of compost) that I left fallow, nice loose soil very easy plowing. Not much of a test of the traction. I had recently finished the refurb on the Original and I just HAD to go play.
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I believe that GoodYear tread is NLA.

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Oh, I have wheel weights on it now.
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the part I need measurments on is #545728-r1 I know cc specialties has them but would like to try to make one first
 
O-K....CALLING FARMALL GRAY!! Where are You TODD?

Just got My RPM and you include a picture of a Kohler engine with a little ROOTS style supercharger and don't say ANYTHING about it except the caption of the picture.

We want (need) details.....See you in the Pulling forum!
 
Have you plowed in hard soil with the plow did
the original handel it fine.I am going to get a
plow for my original but I dont know what size
to get I will get ag tires and wheel weights also
but insted I might get a plow for my 122.
 
Lucas, so far all I have plowed is garden soil. Ag tires and wheel weights certainly would help.
 
I would be plowing garden soil but ours has clay
so Im worried a 10 would be to big to much to handel I think an 8 might work better for my original or I cuold proably put a 10 on my
122. Are the old style frame brinlys hard to find.
 
lucas donald jones
If you want to plow by a 10" and make it shine.Having them clean is the thing here. If you got clay then all the better to have the plow clean and shinny.I cleaned mine and what a difference pulling it. Just my .02
 
Todd...Screw charger ?! Oooo boy...I'll be right next to Denny, just don't mind the
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How can I test to see if my starter generator is charging it starts fine but I am
not shure it is charging or it may be the voltage regulator
 
LUCAS - What Don is try to say, the steel moldboard of the plow has to have a "Land Polish" on it. It has to shine like a mirror.

Sanding, wire brushing, rubbing A LOT with a Scotch-Bright pad or fine steel wool helps, but to really make a plow roll dirt correctly it needs to polish itself with dirt. There really isn't anything you can put on the moldboard either to get it to start "Scouring". There's paints that Case/IH/NH sell called "Till-coat" but it's for spraying/brushing on a plow that's already shiny so it won't rust. Grease is also used.

BRENDAN - Yep, cutest little polished Jimmy blower, small, looked like maybe a 2 or 3-53? Little 2" wide toothed timing belt running it. Looked like it may have had a billet head & OHV conversion since the blower was mounted on top of the head. WE NEED DETAILS!!!
 
Lucas J.
On the starter generator,
Lick your finger, then touch that finger to the F terminal and your tongue to the other, That'll do it!
Then let us know how it goes.
 
Cub Cadet FAQ's #47

Easy Starter Generator Test

Here is an easy test for proper functioning of a Delco Starter-Generator (SG) unit. It can be done on the workbench or tractor with drive belt removed, and all wires removed from the F terminal. For the bench test you’ll need a battery, jumper cables, and a test lead. On the tractor, only the test lead is required.

The usual electrical failure on these units is that they will motor but not generate. This is caused by the generator field coil failing in open circuit mode. This test will check for electrical continuity through the generator coil without disassembly of the unit.

On the bench, ground the SG with the negative jumper cable to the (-) terminal of the battery, and connect the positive jumper to the A (armature) terminal and to the (+) terminal of the battery. Connect the test lead to the F (field) terminal of the SG unit, leaving the other end free. On the tractor, turn the key to start position. The SG should spin up rapidly and run like any DC electric motor. While running, take the test lead that’s connected to the F terminal and ground it to the frame of the SG. The unit should begin to slow down. This indicates the charge coil is good. If it does not slow down, the coil has failed in open circuit and will need replacement. Don’t continue this test for more than a few seconds as your running the charge coil fully shorted.

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Lucas,
It's one thing to ask the same question on multiple forums. BUT, it's another to copy the information from one to another!

There's absolutely no reason to ask in more than one venue other than to see who answers first.
And we're not playing that game here.

Charlie
 
this is for Chip Stewart, I don't think any of the regular guys on here, caught this, But did you imply you have fluid but no tube in your tires? or maybe I read it wrong.
If it is calcuim chloride, you may want to use a tube as it will eat up the steel rim.
Pictures of this has been posted before and they are not pretty.
Just thought you should know.
 

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