Hello; I bought a 1970 Cub Cadet 127 last Saturday. It's needs lots of tlc. The wiring is in great condition with all original wire ends including the battery cable ends. The gas tank is very clean on the inside. I should have it running in a couple of weeks.
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Archive through February 21, 2012
- Thread starter elincoln
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Edward Good Luck on your 127.
I got my 149 running today. No bolts in the seat and no front end on it yet but it was fun. Should of checked the brakes before I went out on it lol. Got some rewiring to do tomorrow for the ignition switch.
Im ordering parts tomorrow. Does anyone know the size of the the belt from the PTO to the deck 38". I keep finding 50 and 60"... That's a big difference. I got the 149 in not running and had no belt on it. Help
Just need help with the belt.
Picture size to large. will make them smaller and post in restore area.
I got my 149 running today. No bolts in the seat and no front end on it yet but it was fun. Should of checked the brakes before I went out on it lol. Got some rewiring to do tomorrow for the ignition switch.
Im ordering parts tomorrow. Does anyone know the size of the the belt from the PTO to the deck 38". I keep finding 50 and 60"... That's a big difference. I got the 149 in not running and had no belt on it. Help
Just need help with the belt.
Picture size to large. will make them smaller and post in restore area.
Dave M.
Welcome to my world!
Welcome to my world!
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Edward L - welcome to the Forum. Glad to see someone else not far away joining in. I'm up in the Mill Creek area and there's another member over in Snohomish if I recall, that has a 147 he was adding a bucket loader to. I saw a 127 in the area here that had a hydraulic lift and wondered if that's the unit you picked up. I believe it was on the other side of the Sound. It's good yours has a good wiring harness since the xx6/xx7 original cloth covered harness was prone to failure. Anxious to see some pics of what you picked up and what your intention is - restore it to a worker unit, or make it a show tractor. You're not far away so I might be able to provide some eagle-eye advice if you're interested.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Harry Bursell
I do understand what you are saying about belt alignment. A straight edge acrost both pulleys will tell me how far the basket pulley has to be slid on the crank to align the pulleys,I understand the closer that the V of the pulley aligns the better belt wear and contact (less side belt wear and slip).I do remember now the install on my 129 lol,I had the basket pulley on and did not have the brace installed for the starter-generator and had to take it all apart again to get the bolt in the block. My eye`s could be bad ,looking at Krag`s picture it looks like he installed a stud to mount that bracket
.
I hope Kraig will set me straight as to why he did that.
My 147 had some kind of cloth coating on the wire set,I did not like the looks of it and replaced it. The 125 wire set that came with the tractor had the covering also. The used wire set I`am installing does not have that cloth covering but is damaged from the sun that the colour does not show up on each wire. Charlie and Mike set me straight on that
. I look forward to each day in my shop coming closer to the day I can take the 125 for a drive.
Today I will taking my truck in for new rotors and pads and a 4x4 cable posi-lok . This mod will allow me to shift in 4x4 low and not engage the front axle . This will help backing up my heavy fifth wheel camper and keep trans temps low.Just having a ball here with my retirement.
Denny
I see a kit for your PSD also.The cable looks like emergency brake style cable with a covering to protect it from damage. I bet you would like that mod also.
I do understand what you are saying about belt alignment. A straight edge acrost both pulleys will tell me how far the basket pulley has to be slid on the crank to align the pulleys,I understand the closer that the V of the pulley aligns the better belt wear and contact (less side belt wear and slip).I do remember now the install on my 129 lol,I had the basket pulley on and did not have the brace installed for the starter-generator and had to take it all apart again to get the bolt in the block. My eye`s could be bad ,looking at Krag`s picture it looks like he installed a stud to mount that bracket
I hope Kraig will set me straight as to why he did that.
My 147 had some kind of cloth coating on the wire set,I did not like the looks of it and replaced it. The 125 wire set that came with the tractor had the covering also. The used wire set I`am installing does not have that cloth covering but is damaged from the sun that the colour does not show up on each wire. Charlie and Mike set me straight on that
Today I will taking my truck in for new rotors and pads and a 4x4 cable posi-lok . This mod will allow me to shift in 4x4 low and not engage the front axle . This will help backing up my heavy fifth wheel camper and keep trans temps low.Just having a ball here with my retirement.
Denny
I see a kit for your PSD also.The cable looks like emergency brake style cable with a covering to protect it from damage. I bet you would like that mod also.
DON - My PSD has always had the ability to use low range in 2WD. I have manual trans, manual T-case, Manual hubs. All my 4X4's have been that way.... because they're FORDS. ;-)
I remember 32 yrs ago playing around in a shopping mall parking lot one night with my buddy along in my '78 F150. I was doing donuts in 3-4 inches of snow, all my 4X4's have had traction-loc rearends so it's easy to spin the back end around. I had the frt hubs locked in and just snicked the lever into 4-H from 2-H and I REALLY had to try to get the back end out and then it would only step out so far. My buddy was amazed (as I was) about how much more traction & stability the frt wheel pulling made. If that truck hadn't of turned into such a rust bucket that was the truck I wish I'd kept, Dana 44 mono-beam frt axle, 9" Ford rear, NP 205 cast iron gear drive T-case, 300-6. With a hot 351W dropped in it it would have been fast too.
TOM H. - You have any pic's of that FARMALL M you can post in the Larger Farmall forum? The ole girl looks nice in that pic of your 800's lift lever.
EDWARD - Welcome to the IHCC forum. Congrat's on the 127, sounds like you got a nice one. You should have it running great soon. You will appreciate how well built these little tractors are. There's lots of things that just NEVER wear out on them. Even after 40-45 yrs of use they still can do a hard day's work. There's a few trailer queens owned by members here but most CC's get used for work regularly.
I remember 32 yrs ago playing around in a shopping mall parking lot one night with my buddy along in my '78 F150. I was doing donuts in 3-4 inches of snow, all my 4X4's have had traction-loc rearends so it's easy to spin the back end around. I had the frt hubs locked in and just snicked the lever into 4-H from 2-H and I REALLY had to try to get the back end out and then it would only step out so far. My buddy was amazed (as I was) about how much more traction & stability the frt wheel pulling made. If that truck hadn't of turned into such a rust bucket that was the truck I wish I'd kept, Dana 44 mono-beam frt axle, 9" Ford rear, NP 205 cast iron gear drive T-case, 300-6. With a hot 351W dropped in it it would have been fast too.
TOM H. - You have any pic's of that FARMALL M you can post in the Larger Farmall forum? The ole girl looks nice in that pic of your 800's lift lever.
EDWARD - Welcome to the IHCC forum. Congrat's on the 127, sounds like you got a nice one. You should have it running great soon. You will appreciate how well built these little tractors are. There's lots of things that just NEVER wear out on them. Even after 40-45 yrs of use they still can do a hard day's work. There's a few trailer queens owned by members here but most CC's get used for work regularly.
Hydro, here's a photo of the same engine that was taken before it was rebuilt. I count 13 fins.
The half fin you mention is just recessed slightly and doesn't show up in the other photo due to the angle it was taken at.
I don't have a good photo of the S/G pulley to engine pulley alignment in my files. Mainly due to the muffler and heat shield blocking it in all the photos I've found. Here's one from the other side that kind of shows the clearance behind the pulley to the bolt.
I don't have a good photo of the S/G pulley to engine pulley alignment in my files. Mainly due to the muffler and heat shield blocking it in all the photos I've found. Here's one from the other side that kind of shows the clearance behind the pulley to the bolt.
KRAIG - Yep, if Kohler would have moved that hole a half inch further out or 3/4 inch closer to the crankshaft there would have been no problem between the bolt head & flange on the S/G pulley.
I forget which engine it was, may have been the K321 I tore down & rebuilt for the #72 that had a real nice radiused groove wore across the bolt head from rubbing that flange on the pulley.
I forget which engine it was, may have been the K321 I tore down & rebuilt for the #72 that had a real nice radiused groove wore across the bolt head from rubbing that flange on the pulley.
hydroharry
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Don T - glad you understood my suggestion on alignment. Been there, done that and got the T-shirt, on installing the brace - as Dennis points out, you have to wonder why Kohler put that bolt hole right in alignment with the edge of the basket pulley.
Kraig - Oh Great Keeper of the Photos - do you have a "distorted" photo file? Eagle eyes are watching.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Kraig - Oh Great Keeper of the Photos - do you have a "distorted" photo file? Eagle eyes are watching.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro, you mean like this?
VS this:
VS this:
And here I thought it was my eyes goin bad!
Harry; I picked the 127 up in Port Ludlow last Saturday, $150. It' not a cream puff. All the tie-rod ends are rusty and the left spindle was seized in the axle. I want to see what the engine sounds like before I take the tractor apart and sandblast the whole thing. A neighbor has 2 Cub Cadets and the former International dealer in Puyallup said they were worth $1500. They both look to be in the same condition as my 127. I picked up a gallon of Case/IH federal yellow at the Case/IH dealer in Kent. I didn,t expect to find any paint they are a Industrial tractor place
I posted some pictures on Feb 17 with some questons about a 149 I was looking at. The response was great. I went back out and looked at it again. The owner says she will have someone get it running so I can Drive it. The front spindles are not bent. Have a few new questons. The front cowl around the headlights is broke into at the bottom, are those easy to find, also a broken headlight. Are the orginal head lights still avalable. Also it looked like the baffle under the deck is mostly gone. Will that keep it from mowing and are they replaceable.I would not be mowing alot with it. I hope it runs ok, I really like it.
DAVID - Yes, the sealed beam headlights are still available... but I think they're expensive, but maybe you won't. They're a #4411 sealed beam.
The frt cowl around the headlights was/is diecast, some of the sponsors above (colorful boxes) could probably fix you up with a used unbroken one. Or if all the pieces are still there someone with a TIG welder may be able to repair that one.
The baffle on the deck being rusted up and bent up will still allow the mower to mow, just not move the clippings to the discharge chute as the mower should, Some of the grass may escape the blades and not get mowen properly too. It's not hard to remake the baffle, you can bolt them on, just takes time and a strip of 1/8th inch thick X 2" wide steel, and some little short pieces of angle iron, and some small 1/4" bolts, nuts & washers.
The frt cowl around the headlights was/is diecast, some of the sponsors above (colorful boxes) could probably fix you up with a used unbroken one. Or if all the pieces are still there someone with a TIG welder may be able to repair that one.
The baffle on the deck being rusted up and bent up will still allow the mower to mow, just not move the clippings to the discharge chute as the mower should, Some of the grass may escape the blades and not get mowen properly too. It's not hard to remake the baffle, you can bolt them on, just takes time and a strip of 1/8th inch thick X 2" wide steel, and some little short pieces of angle iron, and some small 1/4" bolts, nuts & washers.
fcurrier
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Well, David James, your profile says you have a 149 so I guess your mind's pretty well made up? I've been meaning to add an opinion, so here goes:
The 149, running or not, is as good a place to start the Cub Cadet addiction as any! An awful lot depends on your mechanical capabilities and interest. Very few questions go unanswered, here, though one of your first bits of advice may be to get a repair manual.
I've got 3 149s here and another for parts and would be hard pressed to part with any of them. Sometimes I toss around the idea of finding a 169, then I remind myself that the 16hp Kohler is a whole different animal than the 12 and 14hps and probably a good running 14hp would outdo a worn 16hp. Besides, anything I do requires more traction than power!
Keep us informed on your progress! ;o)
The 149, running or not, is as good a place to start the Cub Cadet addiction as any! An awful lot depends on your mechanical capabilities and interest. Very few questions go unanswered, here, though one of your first bits of advice may be to get a repair manual.
I've got 3 149s here and another for parts and would be hard pressed to part with any of them. Sometimes I toss around the idea of finding a 169, then I remind myself that the 16hp Kohler is a whole different animal than the 12 and 14hps and probably a good running 14hp would outdo a worn 16hp. Besides, anything I do requires more traction than power!
Keep us informed on your progress! ;o)
ok this question is for you guys that put the 26/12/12 ag tires on your tractors, i have a 1250, and im pretty sure i can stuff them under there by raising the fenders a little, my question is, what size front tires do you run to match the bigger back, we want to put ag in the front to match the tread on the back, any information would be great and pictures of what itll look like to thanks in advance
hydroharry
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Kraig - yes that type of photo - you must have a really large file of them.
Charlie - no your eyes ain't going bad. I magnified them on my eagle machine and I still see the IH refective surfaces.
Edward L - that must be the one that was advertised "found under the berry bush". With regard to the "former" dealer saying they were worth $1500, it might be why he is a former dealer. CCs are few and far between around here and I've yet to be able to determine a real market price for most of them.
David J - if possible I'd suggest you try to be there to see how and whoever it is that trys to get it running. As I implied before there are people out there that think because it's yellow paint it must be gold plated. These units are around, especially in your 2 state area.
Hydro Harry
Charlie - no your eyes ain't going bad. I magnified them on my eagle machine and I still see the IH refective surfaces.
Edward L - that must be the one that was advertised "found under the berry bush". With regard to the "former" dealer saying they were worth $1500, it might be why he is a former dealer. CCs are few and far between around here and I've yet to be able to determine a real market price for most of them.
David J - if possible I'd suggest you try to be there to see how and whoever it is that trys to get it running. As I implied before there are people out there that think because it's yellow paint it must be gold plated. These units are around, especially in your 2 state area.
Hydro Harry
DARREN - On the 26-12.00X12 tires, it depends on what brand you install how much you need to raise the fenders, not all tires marked the same size really are the same size.
The SGT's all had 18-8.50X8 frt tires to level them out, but then the frt axles & spindles were different too, but going from a 23 inch dia tire to 26 in dia tire raises the rear of a CC 1-1/2 inches, raising the frt 1 inch doesn't hurt.
Pullers like the "nose down" attitude the 26 inchers provide with the small 16 inch frt tires, helps them transfer weight better while limiting the lowering of their rear hitch point.
The SGT's all had 18-8.50X8 frt tires to level them out, but then the frt axles & spindles were different too, but going from a 23 inch dia tire to 26 in dia tire raises the rear of a CC 1-1/2 inches, raising the frt 1 inch doesn't hurt.
Pullers like the "nose down" attitude the 26 inchers provide with the small 16 inch frt tires, helps them transfer weight better while limiting the lowering of their rear hitch point.
