• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through February 21, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Roland B.

Thanks for the info! Where did ya find that? Happen to have anymore? Would like to build my own hitch but want to make it right.

Thanks!

Rob
 
Rob F:

That was part of the Technical Specifications from a CAT O Spec Sheet. It was published by the ASAE. That information was not part of any Cub Cadet data.

Have any more...?????????????

Richard Christensen (Forum Member) done an excellent job of fabricating a CAT O hitch for the IH Cubs. Maybe you can contact him or he will chime in here for his input.

beerchug.gif
 
Dennis F., Thanks for the info. I re-touqued the head before startup this morning. Yes, some bolts took 1/8 of a turn or so. Then, I hiched it to a log and towed it up and down all the driveways around the farm in 2nd. People driving buy must have thought "look at that nut".

Now, I dropped the oil and I'm going to let it drain for an hour or so.

Next question...

At an idle, if I pull the dipstick out, how much air/vapor should I be seeing?
 
TIMOTHY G. - That's not a good way to test for blowby. The Kohler manual describes making a "U Tube Manometer" from a cork or rubber stopper and some clear vinyl tubing. I've used this procedure in the past and it works real good....You can buy everything You need at most hardware stores for a few bucks.... And follow the instructions in the manual. Not sure how many hours of run time You have on the engine but I wouldn't worry about blowby until You have 5-10 hours on it and the rings seal fairly well.
 
Dennis F., ok. It's really more vapor in the cold air because I put my thumb over the dipstick tube and it seems like there actually is a little suction if anything. It's running great and hopefully it will go 3000 hrs or so. anybody know where to buy an hour meter that I can hook to the coil or somwhere?
 
TIMOTHY - The Kohler manual explains it really well but I think Your correct that there's supposed to be a small vacuum in the crankcase when the breather vent is operating correctly. Depending on Your plans for the engine 3000 hours may be a REAL stretch for a K161/181. My K241 I rebuilt in 1985 has about 1500 hrs +/- on it now and it's not in real bad shape but it doesn't pull like it did years ago. If You keep the oil changed every 30 hrs or so, don't over-load the engine or over heat it You could get 2000 hours. The shop I had do the machine work on My K321 had a similar sized Jon Dear but newer, #214 I think sitting in His shop that the engine was rebuilt at around 1500-1600 hrs and the shop owner said it was just about worn out.
Northern Hydraulics has HOBBS hourmeters of several different styles in the catalogs and I know they have an "On-Line Cat." also. My hour meter on the 72 was as Jesse James says "A FREE-BE"
I heard many years ago a gallon of gasoline makes about five quarts of water/water vapor so the air coming out of Your engine's crankcase, thru the vent or the dip stick tube will be noticable. I even saw some blowby from the breather vent on My 129 when it was really HOT out while mowing in the summer.
 
You will also notice that if the muffler is original, it much larger, and round with the exhaust hole offset twords the grill casting. these are all the correct parts that should be there.(black and white) (the funny lookin plate is the heat shield, so that the hot air still exits from the front of the tractor. there also should be an hour meter that is either CC or newer in the left side panel (sittin on it) here are some more pics of 169's that I have found on the net. If only I had one...
52194.jpg

52195.jpg

52196.jpg

52197.jpg
 
my K321 has knocks, rattles, and blowby, and it burns oil, but it jes won't die.
I am gonna rebuild it regardless, unless it blows up before I get the chance to rebuild it
 
Here is the final picture that Angel took yesterday for me. This is the first time that I've had two Cub Cadets running at the same time. Decisions. Decisions. Which should I drive first?


52203.jpg
 
Slow news day today. I'll take this opportunity to say that I wish I had a model 100 to match this post number. Some day...
 
The red one Marlin!
I think all Cub Cadets and Cubs should have been red. The only reason they chose yellow was to attract the women.
ihrotate.gif
 
help.gif

I have a problem with my 100 that is causeing me to
bash.gif

When I close the hood it overlaps the steering wheel by 1" or so. (<font size="-2">yeah I know don't close the hood</font>
The only way to get the hood to close all the way is to remove the 4 bolts on the front casting and tip it forward enough so the hood slides past the steering wheel, but overhangs the dash by 1 inch also, unlike my other cubs, 102& 72 which only go past the dash by maybe 3/8"
I measured this hood against another hood from another 100, }same lenght. Steering wheel is the same diamature as all my other ones here.
I used a steering wheel off a 126 and am able to close the hood, but would like to use the correct steering wheel.

What if anything am I over looking that could be the cause of the hood not closeing corectly
 
Looking for information on a Cub 149, I have had this tractor for about 25 years. Last week in the snow (I live in Illinois) I lost the Trans. I have been looking on the net for a replacement and have seen several with varying prices. My question is how interchangeable are they. I have seen Trans for 1250-1650, 682-782, 147, and 109-169. I know the 109-169 will work, but will the others interchange with no problem. I looked through the FAQ’S but did not see this addressed. Any help on this will be appreciated.
 
Lonny,
I have seen and heard of the pedestals sliding forward before. Just a thought.
Also the grills have been known to get bent.
 
Charlie,

I will check out the pedestal to see if it move forward.
I have to different grill castings, what is the chance that both of them could be bent?
I will have to work on it over the weekend between the snow flakes the weather man is predicting.

I will let you know what I find out on the pedestal placement.
 
John, gota keep them hydro's on a leash...
beerchug.gif
I would find one from a 1X9/1X7 series. the only difference I BELIEVE is that the 1X9's had outer disk brakes, but the 1X7's didn't. (I've seen a 127 wothout em, but my grandpa has em on his old 147...)
 
Lonny,
I guess the odds would be slim to none.
Course there is also a chance that someone messed with the bolts/washers on the grills at one time too.
 
Charlie,
I have to take out the 4 bolts in the grill just to get the hood closed.
I checked for bent frame, no bend noticeable when useing a streight iron.

I will get this figured out, with the help of the fourm, lost of good info to get here.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top