Mac,
I dunno about everyone else, but I've been better, course I've been worse too.
I dunno about everyone else, but I've been better, course I've been worse too.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through February 19, 2007
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I got the 127 repaired today.
I tried following the manual on how to elimanate the hydro creep and slop in the hydro control handle. Pages 42 & 43, Says to use a wedge behind the self locking nut, move lever full reverse to tighten and forward to loosen.
Well try as I might I could not get that lock nut to stay put, So I did the next best possable thing to adjust it, I removed the steering shaft from the 127 giving me full access to that lock nut. Put a vicegrip on the nut, turned the hydro handle to reverse one time. Thats all the adjustment it needed, no more hydro creep or slop in the control handle.
The only thing I was unable to do was give it the 10 pound pull test/setting as I dont have a scale like that.
I tried following the manual on how to elimanate the hydro creep and slop in the hydro control handle. Pages 42 & 43, Says to use a wedge behind the self locking nut, move lever full reverse to tighten and forward to loosen.
Well try as I might I could not get that lock nut to stay put, So I did the next best possable thing to adjust it, I removed the steering shaft from the 127 giving me full access to that lock nut. Put a vicegrip on the nut, turned the hydro handle to reverse one time. Thats all the adjustment it needed, no more hydro creep or slop in the control handle.
The only thing I was unable to do was give it the 10 pound pull test/setting as I dont have a scale like that.
tgallagher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 79
- displayname
- Timothy S. Gallagher
Ok, Dumb question...
I have to torque my connecting rod (posi-lock) to 140 inch pounds.
My torque wrench has foot pounds only.
so, I'm assuming that there are 12 inch pound/foot pound?
I.E. 120 inch pounds= 10 foot pounds?
I have to torque my connecting rod (posi-lock) to 140 inch pounds.
My torque wrench has foot pounds only.
so, I'm assuming that there are 12 inch pound/foot pound?
I.E. 120 inch pounds= 10 foot pounds?
Mike M.
I consulted a machinist for a very similar problem with the original motor in my 129. PO broke a rod, and there were similar sized chunks out of the piston skirt and bottom of the cylinder. They tried to patch it with a new rod, but it smoked worse than a Rumley when I test fired it before tearing it down. It had a brand new rod, crank was worn .008-.014 under, cylinder had about .008 taper. I considered having the machine work done, but to make a long story short, I found a much more serviceable block for $25 that needed only a light honing and valve lapping, and had a good crank, rod, and piston, though it needed a camshaft. I did salvage the external parts, such as the carb, S/G, flywheel, sheet metal and head for the new block, and have a usable cam for a future project.
While he said that he couldn't do anything with the crank, as long as the missing chunk didn't reach as high as the piston pin, you were probably OK with the block. As to whether the block is worth saving or not, a lot depends on the condition of the rest of the internal engine parts. You might be better off starting with another motor, if the price and condition is right. Besides the bore, my biggest concern would be the crank. I would clean up the aluminum cladding on the crank and mike it out. Crank journals tend to wear egg-shaped, so mike it along several axis, and at several points on the journal. The only standard undersize rod is a .010, if you are worn past that you will either need another crank, or you can grind it .020 under, and get a specially made rod with the proper undersize Clevite bearing inserts. Such rods are available from some of the vendors that supply performance parts for the pullers, but are expensive.
If the crank is grindable to .010, then you are probably looking at about $60 for machine work on the crank, another $50 or so for the bore, and $40 for valve work if it needs it, plus $75-120 for a Stens rebuild kit. Don't forget to check the cam as well, particularly the lobe for the breaker points. If you need a new crank, figure on close to $200 for a new one, and $50-$75 for a used one which may or may not need to be ground. I would stay away from any used crank on Ebay which the seller does not show a good picture of the journals, nor provides measurements of the journals. I see a lot of guys trying to pass off junk as serviceable cranks.
I consulted a machinist for a very similar problem with the original motor in my 129. PO broke a rod, and there were similar sized chunks out of the piston skirt and bottom of the cylinder. They tried to patch it with a new rod, but it smoked worse than a Rumley when I test fired it before tearing it down. It had a brand new rod, crank was worn .008-.014 under, cylinder had about .008 taper. I considered having the machine work done, but to make a long story short, I found a much more serviceable block for $25 that needed only a light honing and valve lapping, and had a good crank, rod, and piston, though it needed a camshaft. I did salvage the external parts, such as the carb, S/G, flywheel, sheet metal and head for the new block, and have a usable cam for a future project.
While he said that he couldn't do anything with the crank, as long as the missing chunk didn't reach as high as the piston pin, you were probably OK with the block. As to whether the block is worth saving or not, a lot depends on the condition of the rest of the internal engine parts. You might be better off starting with another motor, if the price and condition is right. Besides the bore, my biggest concern would be the crank. I would clean up the aluminum cladding on the crank and mike it out. Crank journals tend to wear egg-shaped, so mike it along several axis, and at several points on the journal. The only standard undersize rod is a .010, if you are worn past that you will either need another crank, or you can grind it .020 under, and get a specially made rod with the proper undersize Clevite bearing inserts. Such rods are available from some of the vendors that supply performance parts for the pullers, but are expensive.
If the crank is grindable to .010, then you are probably looking at about $60 for machine work on the crank, another $50 or so for the bore, and $40 for valve work if it needs it, plus $75-120 for a Stens rebuild kit. Don't forget to check the cam as well, particularly the lobe for the breaker points. If you need a new crank, figure on close to $200 for a new one, and $50-$75 for a used one which may or may not need to be ground. I would stay away from any used crank on Ebay which the seller does not show a good picture of the journals, nor provides measurements of the journals. I see a lot of guys trying to pass off junk as serviceable cranks.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Lonnie B.
Do you have a fish scale in your tacke box? That is what I use for that adjustment.
Do you have a fish scale in your tacke box? That is what I use for that adjustment.
mmiller
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Michael A. Miller
Thanks to James, Dennis, and Bruce for your comments on rebuilding the K321. I need to take the rest of it apart and mic the bore before I decide if I'll try to rebuild it. I'm also pretty skeptical about reusing that crank. Even if I can clean up the crank pin, I know it got real hot. You can see the discoloration in one of the photos.
Michael M,
I have a K 301 block with the same custom features. I purchased it as a "rebuildable" project, found that hunk missing, and have let it set in a sealed plastic tub until I decide what to do with it. The head is probably worth what I paid for the engine, so I don't feel bad about it.
Where you live will partially determine machine costs. I just checked with a shop here (Northwest Chicago suburbs) and was told that turning the crank would be $100, and boring to next size would be $65. The shop I checked with would have to send the crank out to another business, but could do pretty much anything else I needed in-house.
I notice in your profile that you're a machinist. I would think it would cost you less, especially in a town with a name like Mechanicsville.
I have a K 301 block with the same custom features. I purchased it as a "rebuildable" project, found that hunk missing, and have let it set in a sealed plastic tub until I decide what to do with it. The head is probably worth what I paid for the engine, so I don't feel bad about it.
Where you live will partially determine machine costs. I just checked with a shop here (Northwest Chicago suburbs) and was told that turning the crank would be $100, and boring to next size would be $65. The shop I checked with would have to send the crank out to another business, but could do pretty much anything else I needed in-house.
I notice in your profile that you're a machinist. I would think it would cost you less, especially in a town with a name like Mechanicsville.
MICHAEL, BRUCE - I just had the machine work on My K321 I started rebuilding three years ago done about 2 months ago....bore .010" O/S, grind the crank journal .011" U/S, the forged rod w/replacable insert requires .001" more clearance than the std. rod. And the shop "back ground" the underside of both valves, checked the guides, ground the seats and checked the head & block decks for flatness....Bill was $135. Shop was FIRST RATE in the quality of work so it may be worth while to shop around. It won't quite be a "KILLER KOHLER" when it's done but it'll be close! Just don't ask what the bills add up to....But it should hang right with My 982 when it's done.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
For the time being, those looking for Kirk Engines can find his site here (the sponsor button above has also been updated):
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/Sponsors/kirkengines/
Note that he can be reached at [email protected] as well.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/Sponsors/kirkengines/
Note that he can be reached at [email protected] as well.
Michael M., send Don Vogt an email to see if he has any used cranks and/or blocks. He is a sponsor of this website, use his button at the top of the page. I just bought a crank from him a few weeks ago for my Killer Kohler ™ project. Don's a great guy do deal with.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Mike M:
I wouldn't give up on that block without actually consulting one of the Kohler specialists. That chunk missing from the block matches the "long" dimension of the piston skirt, where the piston rocking issue would be minimized - the chunk out of the cylinder wall looks to be less than a 1/2" in heigth from your picture. Keep in mind that hot rodders (maybe even Kohler hot rodders) clearance the bottom of the cylinder, if needed when putting stroker cranks in, so that the big end of the rod clears. It's possible to just chamfer the area thats broken out and go... Just my two cents.
I wouldn't give up on that block without actually consulting one of the Kohler specialists. That chunk missing from the block matches the "long" dimension of the piston skirt, where the piston rocking issue would be minimized - the chunk out of the cylinder wall looks to be less than a 1/2" in heigth from your picture. Keep in mind that hot rodders (maybe even Kohler hot rodders) clearance the bottom of the cylinder, if needed when putting stroker cranks in, so that the big end of the rod clears. It's possible to just chamfer the area thats broken out and go... Just my two cents.
PSA,
For all those that have been emailing me wanting to know more about CERMA, the new website is up and fully functional.
https://secure.cermatechnology.com/index.html
For those wanting to try it, use my ID# of 10030.
Since I have tried this product with 100% satisfaction, It will be more than likely become a sponsor for the forum real soon.
For all those that have been emailing me wanting to know more about CERMA, the new website is up and fully functional.
https://secure.cermatechnology.com/index.html
For those wanting to try it, use my ID# of 10030.
Since I have tried this product with 100% satisfaction, It will be more than likely become a sponsor for the forum real soon.
K
kmcgiver
Guest
ARRRG the world is gainst me!!!!! Sever problems here, puter problems at home, I cant win!!!
