Scott, I do not believe that is a Cub Cadet cab, it may have been made to fit the 1x4/5 series by an after market manufacturer though. It looks kind of like the style of an older Curtis brand cab.
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Archive through February 15, 2009
- Thread starter kfreeman
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klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
Brennan,
I think your new switch is a new style key switch that would work for a recoil pull start Original or 70. Off makes a connection to ground the points and kill then engine and on makes the circuit open so it will run.
I think your new switch is a new style key switch that would work for a recoil pull start Original or 70. Off makes a connection to ground the points and kill then engine and on makes the circuit open so it will run.
KRAIG, MATT - re: 1100 CC.....may as well buy a jd, wheel donkey, or simple tractor.
LONNIE B. - I'd buy that 460 L-O-N-G before that green one You posted on the other side of the tracks. In spite of the bad reputation from the rearend recall program they really were a decent tractor, a lot of them are still in operation daily as chore tractors.
There's a Guy over on RPM looking for those cast frt wheels & pedistal for His Super M...and has the correct ones for the 460 to trade. Looks like You'd need a "Correct" 8-spoke rear wheel for the right rear too. A couple hours with some degreaser & pressure washer would make that tractor look pretty good. Parts are actually getting easier to find for the 460/560 because the aftermarket is kicking in.
LONNIE B. - I'd buy that 460 L-O-N-G before that green one You posted on the other side of the tracks. In spite of the bad reputation from the rearend recall program they really were a decent tractor, a lot of them are still in operation daily as chore tractors.
There's a Guy over on RPM looking for those cast frt wheels & pedistal for His Super M...and has the correct ones for the 460 to trade. Looks like You'd need a "Correct" 8-spoke rear wheel for the right rear too. A couple hours with some degreaser & pressure washer would make that tractor look pretty good. Parts are actually getting easier to find for the 460/560 because the aftermarket is kicking in.
Brennan Hoyt and other timed-deck-wheel searchers…
I could be mistaken, but I believe that the restoration quality wheels the green guys have to restore their 39" decks on their early 110's are identical, save the color of the steel rim….
I could be mistaken, but I believe that the restoration quality wheels the green guys have to restore their 39" decks on their early 110's are identical, save the color of the steel rim….
Brennan H,
Did the switch come from a Cub Cadet or Case IH dealer, or is it an aftermarket switch that "replaces" the IH 403562-R2 switch? Is your tractor electric start or recoil (pull) start? I am assuming it is electric start because of the two wire switch connection.
The original electric start switch used a "normal" key, and up to S/N 29408 the part number was IH- 365522-R92 and it used terminals with the screws. After that S/N the switch was part number IH-403562-R2 (or 379594 R91) and used the push on terminals.
Your switch would appear to be made for a magneto ignition system rather than a battery ignition system. A mag sw would be "made" or on when the key was off, to ground the mag and shut the engine down. It would be open or off when the key was on, to allow the mag to function. The original mag switches only had a one wire connection (to the mag) and were grounded thru the switch body. Some of the after market switches available now have a two wire connection (1 wire to the mag, 1 to a ground) and use the Indak type key that you describe. That is why I asked if it was an after market sw that replaces the IH sw. Either way, I would say the switch is not correct and is/was misidentified, all this assuming the rest of the tractor wiring is correctly connected.
The simple fix is to use the switch you removed, if it is good, and just replace the push on wiring terminals to the eyelet type to fit the switch.
Did the switch come from a Cub Cadet or Case IH dealer, or is it an aftermarket switch that "replaces" the IH 403562-R2 switch? Is your tractor electric start or recoil (pull) start? I am assuming it is electric start because of the two wire switch connection.
The original electric start switch used a "normal" key, and up to S/N 29408 the part number was IH- 365522-R92 and it used terminals with the screws. After that S/N the switch was part number IH-403562-R2 (or 379594 R91) and used the push on terminals.
Your switch would appear to be made for a magneto ignition system rather than a battery ignition system. A mag sw would be "made" or on when the key was off, to ground the mag and shut the engine down. It would be open or off when the key was on, to allow the mag to function. The original mag switches only had a one wire connection (to the mag) and were grounded thru the switch body. Some of the after market switches available now have a two wire connection (1 wire to the mag, 1 to a ground) and use the Indak type key that you describe. That is why I asked if it was an after market sw that replaces the IH sw. Either way, I would say the switch is not correct and is/was misidentified, all this assuming the rest of the tractor wiring is correctly connected.
The simple fix is to use the switch you removed, if it is good, and just replace the push on wiring terminals to the eyelet type to fit the switch.
I got that 104 home and got looking at that cab some more. It's green and yellow, I'm not sure what side of the tractor JD puts thier lift levers on but its built right for a lift arm on the cub.
Kraig, I will follow that link to have a look-see. Yes it does look like a Curtis
Also think I'm going to have to replace the steering column po creamed the nut or whats left of it pretty bad, it doesnt even look like a nut at all. I have decided to buy stock on PB Blaster cause I'm going to need a lot of it for this 104!! I have more pics I will post once I get them loaded onto the computer.
Kraig, I will follow that link to have a look-see. Yes it does look like a Curtis
Also think I'm going to have to replace the steering column po creamed the nut or whats left of it pretty bad, it doesnt even look like a nut at all. I have decided to buy stock on PB Blaster cause I'm going to need a lot of it for this 104!! I have more pics I will post once I get them loaded onto the computer.
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- Allen Schumacher
Don T., gonna buy stock in PBB? Look at all the neat stuff they have www.pbblaster.com You might end up owning part of the company one way or the other!
