Archive through February 15, 2007

[kide]

Ken's brochure- Lift handle - seems like it would be forward if it's down - and it doesn't look like the float button is engaged (you gotta look reeeeeel close

). Other than that, musta been one of them California snow storms - no gloves???

Kraig - at least in 8 years I figured out it was a "36". That was the one I "z'd" the mounting on so it would mount on a WF and then had to take the Z out and put it back to normal when I traded - after the TIG job and a little grinding it was actually straighter than the other side..

 

[kide]

Jeff B.:
You probably already figured it out, but up and down slack would probably indicate #1 may be loose, the bearing / cone assy in #2 are shot or likewise for #3.

Photo swiped from FAQ 16

 

[aschumacher]

Jeff B, besides parts catalog for diagram, go to FAQ's at top of this page, then go to more FAQ's at top of that page. look at 18A, steering box rebuild.

 

[gcoleman]

I finally got my new tie rod and tie rod ends, so now I have bailin wire free steerin... and a front tir rod that isnt pitted almost all the way through...

 

[lbuttke]

Kraig,

On that 1x5 photo, it looks as if there is a funky looking plastic hub cap on the front tire.

 

[gcoleman]

Charlie those V61 tires would really make your 1450 (I think) look sharp... and would accent those nice 26 X 12-12's
On another subject, what was the biggest mower deck that IH made for wideframes?
How many rear mowers could be used with a 90 deg. gear box turned so the shaft faces rearwards with the pulley removed, and a splined shaft installed (if that don't already hold the pulley in place...)

 

[tcbusch]

Charlie,
With any luck you will be able to wave your wing during plow day this year.

 

[bcook]

Kentucky Ken: No phone call needed.......

You asked why people mess with these old Cub Cadets that 'are always breaking/always need repaired', instead of buying a new tractor....I bought/buy what I can afford and can work on myself = old stuff. I can't afford new tractors, and implements..THAT is why I personaly mess with old stuff that sometimes breaks!!

-Never- said I was better than you. Don't know why you're saying that?

 

[jbrubaker]

thx for the tips guys, but how do i pull the entire steering column to replace those bearings

 

[rbedell]

G Coleman:

The 982 could be fitted with the 60C mower deck.

 

[kweaver]

Jeff - it'll have to come out from underneath.

 

[kweaver]

Charlie - I went and looked at those 2 JD 317's today, front hydraulic ports but no rear lift. He had 2 cubs in his shed. A 1020 (10 something) and a 149. He has to use the 149 to mow with because he crashed a motorcycle and had a permanent stiff right leg (no knee). He said the 149 was just right because another welder friend of mine made him an elevated extended foot rest. Oops that's not stock is it... He said he couldn't use the green ones since he can't use the pedals on the right side. And as icing he has a close to new 25 HP Kohler sitting there but it's a vertical shaft

.... but the 2 greens and the 25hp are changing address

The greens came from the Case / IH dealer

 

[glouderback]

Jeff,
Pull the steering wheel off and take 2 bolts out holding it to the frame underneath. It will then slide out from the bottom.
G.L.
[email protected]

 

[eford]

I've been having rough times plowing with a back blade. It's brinly sleev-type that will go either direction. I figure a front blade is better but...
Is there a trick to getting the same results as with a front or am I SOL? BTW I'm going to fabricate my own rear IH 3point blade. Have an interesting idea for it too. I'll have to draw it out.

 

[kweaver]

Earl - If you want a true style 3-pt that pivots and swivels I'll send ya a pic of my little monster's blade I built.

How about changing buttons so the name / number / location can be read ?

That's something sponsors need to consider too. A full size business card looks good when you're handing them out but when it comes to shrinking them ... more isn't better

 

[kweaver]

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF - On Your steering gearbox rebuild...the top bearing, (#2 in the pic) and it's thrust collar or race MAY be pushed up into the diecast housing and there may not be enough of the casting left to support the new bearings & race...My #72 was worn that bad....I had to take a piece of 1-1/2" OD X 3/4" ID tubing about and inch long and slide it down inside the steering tube and drill thru the casting, tube, and into the sleeve, tap it and thread screws into the sleeve to support that top bearing.... Also the bottom race may hammer itself into the adjusting nut on the bottom. Also the ground races on the steering worm shaft need to be VERY smooth....You may have to smooth them up with a round grinding wheel on a Dremel or ???? but the grinding HAS to be equal all the way around....

MICHAEL MILLER - Here Ya GO....

....Great repair....Wish I knew someone with a chrome shop or plasma spray welding equip. to salvage parts like that! I know the axles in My 72 are probably worst than Your were.....where the bushing have worn into the axle carrier.

 

[digger]

Kentuck,
The business card type buttons are temporary to get the new sponsors name up there as fast as possible.
If you'll notice, by clicking in Marlins button it takes you to his web site that has the larger version of his card that's easier to read.
Once his website is up and running, the button will be modified to reflect his business name and logo only. And won't be to cluttered.

You'll also notice that Chris's button only has a mail to on it, that means that his web site is not up as of yet.
I'm on top of things and am moving them along as quick as possible.
It does take some time as you know, Both Marlin and Chris are working away in the background to get both sites ready as fast as time, their jobs and the cold will let them.

 

[kweaver]

Well if you'd take that darn cast off .......

 

[digger]

It's NOT a darn cast!
It's a damn cast! And believe me, I'm way past ready to get the sucker off!