Glen & Kentuck,
That's the old PRELIMINARY website.
The new and improved site will prolly be ready by mid week.
That's the old PRELIMINARY website.
The new and improved site will prolly be ready by mid week.
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Archive through February 10, 2007
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Steve B.
<font size="+2">SLAM!!!!!!!
</font>
<font size="+2">SLAM!!!!!!!
Glen,
Probably the best thing you can do about the gas tank is to just loosen the straps and offset the tank to one side or the other, as far as the hood clearance will permit. This will give you maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch to play with.
Probably the best thing you can do about the gas tank is to just loosen the straps and offset the tank to one side or the other, as far as the hood clearance will permit. This will give you maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch to play with.
Jim M.
Sure can, not a problem at all.
Sure can, not a problem at all.
Here's one for you guys,
I readjusted the PTO clutch using my homemade gauge, but I still have problems with the PTO not releasing completely-unless I slow the engine down to idle, then the PTO will disengage. Yes I did adjust the turnbuckle as well. Speeding the engine up with the PTO disengaged will not cause engagement of the PTO, only prevent disengagement.
I readjusted the PTO clutch using my homemade gauge, but I still have problems with the PTO not releasing completely-unless I slow the engine down to idle, then the PTO will disengage. Yes I did adjust the turnbuckle as well. Speeding the engine up with the PTO disengaged will not cause engagement of the PTO, only prevent disengagement.
Bruce,
Pics would be great in the released position and in the on position.
Is your button in good shape?
Is there anything bent?
Pics would be great in the released position and in the on position.
Is your button in good shape?
Is there anything bent?
jmdaugherty
Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2006
- Messages
- 18
- displayname
- J. Michael Daugherty
The stock front rubber on Cub Cadets is generally pretty kind to turf but a pretty vague when pushing snow. I was trying to execute a turn while backing away from a snow pile, I noticed the steering was even more ineffective than usual. I turned my head to look forward as I eased the control lever ahead. The fact that the front tires were pointed in different directions caught my attention. The tie rod had dropped off the right spindle assembly. Don't you hate it when a "permanently lubricated" part only lasts 30 years?
I wasn't quite done clearing the snow but enough was done to get by. The real job was going to be getting the Cub back to the shop in the present condition. The joint slipped back together easily enough but wouldn't stay in place. A quick search provided a rubber band which I tripled up and slipped over the joint.
Although I hoped only to make it back to the shop, the rubber band seemed to make the joint pretty solid. I cautiously pushed a little more snow. Red Green often says "It's only temporary unless it works." My repair looked more pretty temoporary but I used the tractor a few more times before I made it the the dealer to pick up a replacement part.
Changed the joint, but it probably would have held for a while until the rubber band dried out.
I wasn't quite done clearing the snow but enough was done to get by. The real job was going to be getting the Cub back to the shop in the present condition. The joint slipped back together easily enough but wouldn't stay in place. A quick search provided a rubber band which I tripled up and slipped over the joint.
Although I hoped only to make it back to the shop, the rubber band seemed to make the joint pretty solid. I cautiously pushed a little more snow. Red Green often says "It's only temporary unless it works." My repair looked more pretty temoporary but I used the tractor a few more times before I made it the the dealer to pick up a replacement part.
Changed the joint, but it probably would have held for a while until the rubber band dried out.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
If you need to keep working and can't get right to the dealer to get a new tie rod end, put the two pieces back together and take a center punch and punch around the edge of the hole. It'll push enough metal down to capture the ball again. I've used 'em for a few weeks that way.
I'm planning on converting the 129 to heim joints at the same time I do the steering box upgrade this spring..Oughta steer like a dream after that..
I'm planning on converting the 129 to heim joints at the same time I do the steering box upgrade this spring..Oughta steer like a dream after that..
J. Micheal D., Kendall I. - My old VW Beetle lost the nut to the tie rod turning left at an intersection in the middle of nowhere late at night. Just so happens I had some old electrical hardware (lamp fittings and such) with me that turned out to have the same metric sized thread. I cinched her up, added wire for safety, and had better steering than before! Dumb luck. I felt kinda like McGyver.
On topic part: Why are roll pins used over a standard bolt?
On topic part: Why are roll pins used over a standard bolt?
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Mention of the PTO clutch (wear) button (and a post about brass replacements) got me to thinking that some of the youngsters might not know a couple of things about the manual (non electric) PTO clutches. I fought with the PTO clutch on the 129 for a while before realizing that the only time those wear buttons should actually get any wear is just as you're engaging the PTO (just for an instance, the clutch will be spinning as the release arm is pulling the wear button away from the clutch) and the reverse (which is worse, since the release button will touch the spinning clutch thrust button until the PTO has stopped turning). So - a couple of things will preserve the wear button:
1: Idle the engine down before disengaging the PTO.
2: If you don't have a PTO driven implement on the machine, make sure the PTO isn't spinning when disengaged, or as soon as you've started the tractor, engage the PTO. I always leave the PTO in the engaged position, after starting, since even after a complete rebuild, new bearing and all, there's enough drag in the clutch to spin it if there isn't a belt around it. Letting the wear button continue to touch the clutch thrust button will melt it quick and if the release arm contacts the thrust button face, it'll start chewing it up.. Oh --and I just remembered, make sure to keep the recommended clearance between the thrust button and the wear button..
1: Idle the engine down before disengaging the PTO.
2: If you don't have a PTO driven implement on the machine, make sure the PTO isn't spinning when disengaged, or as soon as you've started the tractor, engage the PTO. I always leave the PTO in the engaged position, after starting, since even after a complete rebuild, new bearing and all, there's enough drag in the clutch to spin it if there isn't a belt around it. Letting the wear button continue to touch the clutch thrust button will melt it quick and if the release arm contacts the thrust button face, it'll start chewing it up.. Oh --and I just remembered, make sure to keep the recommended clearance between the thrust button and the wear button..
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Jim P...
my buddies are from salamanca and westfield...
All.
we made national news... Redfield NY has 10 ft of fluff now... My mom grew up in that town, she said they all used to sled of the roof in the winter... woo-hoo!!
my buddies are from salamanca and westfield...
All.
we made national news... Redfield NY has 10 ft of fluff now... My mom grew up in that town, she said they all used to sled of the roof in the winter... woo-hoo!!
Impressed the hell out of a friend today.Used my "cute little tractor",as he called it,(my 128),to pull a Toyota truck onto a car dolly.Half throttle in 1st gear;NO SWEAT!Would have posted a pic but I'm not "digitally capable".However,that will be corrected shortly.So...you guys got any tips for a newbie to make my pic posting as smooth as a K341 at full throttle? Thanks!
I ventured out into my chilly pole building and got the PTO working properly again. I looked in both my 129 and 102 manuals, the 129 manual describes compression springs, but didn't show them, the 102 manual did. Sure enough, the compression springs were missing on the PTO, and I looked into my spring assortment and found some suitable springs. After trimming them to the proper length, I got it all back together, and I also corrected a problem with the bearing being not quite flush with the end of the crank.
After putting the adjusted and repaired PTO back onto the tractor, it worked well, save the annoying rattle that they all make when missing the anti-rattle springs. I also have to get some new setscrews soon, the ones on it are rounding off my T handle and slipping. It will get me through until Spring, but I better take care of them before they set in place.
A used tractor is like a box of Chocolates. You never know what you will find when you look inside the box.
Once again, I would like to thank Charlie for his help.
After putting the adjusted and repaired PTO back onto the tractor, it worked well, save the annoying rattle that they all make when missing the anti-rattle springs. I also have to get some new setscrews soon, the ones on it are rounding off my T handle and slipping. It will get me through until Spring, but I better take care of them before they set in place.
A used tractor is like a box of Chocolates. You never know what you will find when you look inside the box.
Once again, I would like to thank Charlie for his help.
Got a question for you guys,got a 100 and a 70 all restored but,could never find any serial #'s on either one of them.even when the frame and everything was sanded or blasted,i believe they are a 64 or 65 vintage but cannot be certain as i want to be.so no numbers on either so now what do i have?a 64 and a 1/2? don't know but has always been in the back of my mind..any suggestions as i have looked all over these tractors where they say they are they are not..thanks,Vern
