Archive through February 09, 2005

[jbishop]

Hi, new member to this great group. A 125 found me a couple months ago. It's in good shape other than a crack in the fiberglass dash. Found 1 on Ebay, got the steering wheel off no problem using the method in the FAQ, but can't get the hydro lever off (doesn't have a set screw in the threaded hole in the side of the lever near as I can tell). Any tricks to removing a stuck lever? Even tried a little heat from a heat gun but didn't help. Also, seems like it would be easier to drive if it had a pedal on the rt side to work the hydro like the gas pedal in a car. Anybody ever fab some thing like this? thank you, Jim.

 

[ppimentel]

Terry B.~

It's real nice to have a someone with your knowledge and willing to share it on this site.....

 

[wcompton]

Terry-
Why would timing the engine at RPM and full load make a differnce?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim B., tap down on the hydro control lever before you try to pull it off. Tap down, pull up, tap down, pull up, repeat. This will loosen it up and eventually it'll pull all the way off! I should point out that my good friend Art Aytay told me about this trick.

 

[pfunk]

Billy Perry, glad to see another forum member from the area. You should consider bringing your Cub Cadet(s) to Thresherman Park this summer. It's always a good time.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marcus, do you have a better photo of the trailer that your loader is dumping into in the photo you posted below? Looks like an interesting trailer.

 

[tcbusch]

Wyatt,
I don't think timing it would make much of a difference but tuning the carb definitely does.
I said timing earlier so everyone could get a visual of someone sitting on the hood with a timing light in one hand and a little screw driver in the other trying to adjust the points. All the while snow is getting blown everywhere and the cub is flying down the driveway.

BTW, I mentioned that method to my wife and it didn't even warrant a response.

 

[bmcmeen]

 

[wcompton]

Bryan-
I thought I read at one time that no-load speed was supposed to be adjusted to 3800RPM? Either way, my 169's adjusted to 4000, not a huge differnce, but still very noticeable.

 

[bmcmeen]

Wyatt -

I know idle on a hydro is higher, but I don't remember reading 3800 anywhere, but that doesn't mean a dang thing. I'll check my propaganda tonite (after I fix Julie's "operating system not found" issue!) If you find it first, please post it (the RPM reference, not Julie's OS

).

4000 isn't necessarily bad - if you know your engine. I just hope everyone doesn't run out there and bump theirs up to 4K then end up with windows in their block cuz their engine was on the fringe...

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Got somethin cool in the mail today.

 

[kmcconaughey]

)

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

I may be wrong, but I think Kraig's post means he wants you to let him scan it

 

[digger]

Bryan,
Yea, that subtle subliminal energy wave hit me too!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Naw, I think I wore out my scanner, it no workie anymore......

Or would that be --->

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on February 11, 2005)

 

[dreid]

Cross reference for wheel weights

When I had my 782 worked on, the guy had some junk in the back (who doesn't?) and found one set of wheel weights that go onto the inside of the wheel rim. While that helps (and my wife accuses me of eating too much just to weight the back end down) I feel the need for a lot more weight. I did take a tube of sand, the kind that is supposed to go into the back of pickups and not fly around during accidents, and lay it across the seat, and sat upon that. Helped the traction, but not my back.

Are there any of the currently available and currently manufactured weights that will stack onto these, or do I need to pay through the nose for authentic parts?

 

[digger]

Dale R.
It sounds like you may have gotten hold of a set of JD starter weights.
What do they weigh and do ya have a picture of them?
If they are starter weights, you can buy 54 pound JD weights to stack on the outside.

That's all I use on all my Cubs.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

My older HP 4100 scanner broke right after Christmas......as if it KNEW I had a gift card to Best Buy in my stocking

Bought a new HP3970 and really like it...photo resizing software that came with it is nice too.

(Are you missing any of the "colored border" literature in the CD collection????...I could probably scan some of it)

 

[sblunier]

I keep going back to pictures of Todd's 149 and thinking...man is that nice........

Soooo, I think the 148 plow tractor will be all red, but with stock 1x8 decals, much like the late model "tri-stripe" 86 series.

If it's all right with you Todd, I might borrow the grill styling, as it really sets off the tractor.

BTW, here's a shot of a Hydro 100 "black stripe" that was the inspiration behind Todd's great decal work.

(I picked up literature on both series of tractors at the St. Louis show, for comparison)

 

[darmstrong]

Re: replace or rebuild 16 hp Kohler

The engine is burning oil and power is down noticably. I'm assuming the rings/rod bearings are worn and the head is likely gummed up. The carb is in need of a rebuild and the threads for fastening the air cleaner assembly to it are stripped. It needs a major tune up. The governer linkage sticks. The decompressor is acting up and the diptick won't stay in the tube.

If I bought a new carb and rebuilt the motor I'd probably have to invest about a thousand bucks, including the machine shop work. I saw a new direct replacement 16 hp Kohler on the web for $1,400 (U.S.). I live in Ontario so I'd have to add the exchange rate (about .22 cents right now) so the price would actually be about $1750, plus another $250 in taxes.

That's not even close so I'll be going with a rebuild.