Hydro, just joking with you.
Archive through February 07, 2013
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Yeah, don't Ya kinda think it was about time for the 'ol 1200??
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Dave: There is more area where the oil is than where it ain't!
mfrade
Well-known member
Don Tanner, I didn't see that one coming!! HAH!
In any event, your persistance paid off and you got your tractor back.
I'm over here in S.E. Mass and waiting for that big snow. I went to install my lil QA36A snowthrower and somehow I must've banged the pulley and it broke. 8-(
So I'll leave the plow blade on and make do.
In any event, your persistance paid off and you got your tractor back.
I'm over here in S.E. Mass and waiting for that big snow. I went to install my lil QA36A snowthrower and somehow I must've banged the pulley and it broke. 8-(
So I'll leave the plow blade on and make do.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Kraig, Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos and Arrows and Circles - hey keep'm coming. I'm kinda a jokester to, but I don't think Don knows.
Mike F - your key word was "persistance". I know my messages to Don may have been somewhat discouraging, but I kinda figured with his temperment it would only incite him to get it running again.
Don T - don't pay attention to what I say, just what I do, and that ain't much anymore. It's all part of the love of knowing your tractors from the inside out. I know you'll love that 125 all done up.
David S - oh boy, I hope it's just the head gasket and that carbon. Hey, who is that in the 2nd pic?
Mike F - your key word was "persistance". I know my messages to Don may have been somewhat discouraging, but I kinda figured with his temperment it would only incite him to get it running again.
Don T - don't pay attention to what I say, just what I do, and that ain't much anymore. It's all part of the love of knowing your tractors from the inside out. I know you'll love that 125 all done up.
David S - oh boy, I hope it's just the head gasket and that carbon. Hey, who is that in the 2nd pic?
mfrade
Well-known member
Harry, you'd already know who was in the second picture if you ventured into the sandbox of threads... Our most popular thread re: felines!
Discouraged?
Arrows and red circles with several glossy photos?
Discouraged?
Arrows and red circles with several glossy photos?
Good morning all. Going to reassemble the k321 for my 147 today and since i've never done this before (i'm nervous) I thought I'd ask a few questions first.
1. Since I'm not reinstalling the balance gears do I need to remove the stub shafts or just leave in place.
2. Can I simply disregard the section in the manual regarding balance gears.
3. Crank still has crank keys in slots - is it ok to reuse them (not in horrible shape) or should I replace with new. Not real sure how to remove them without damage.
4. Using Lucas reassembly lube - ok?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated - especially with respect to end play issues on crank and cam. Been putting this off for a while hoping a neighbor or someone with experience would stop by to help but looks like it's gonna be me, me, and me. Thanks all
1. Since I'm not reinstalling the balance gears do I need to remove the stub shafts or just leave in place.
2. Can I simply disregard the section in the manual regarding balance gears.
3. Crank still has crank keys in slots - is it ok to reuse them (not in horrible shape) or should I replace with new. Not real sure how to remove them without damage.
4. Using Lucas reassembly lube - ok?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated - especially with respect to end play issues on crank and cam. Been putting this off for a while hoping a neighbor or someone with experience would stop by to help but looks like it's gonna be me, me, and me. Thanks all
Terry Davis
You don`t have to remove the stub shaft that hold the balance gears and just skip that section . If you want to change your keys just use a small punch and tap it under the front edge of the key and it will lift and come out; but if the edges are in good shape I would leave it. For assembly lube anything that will stay on the moving parts to lube them till the engine runs is great . I hope you still have the washers for the end of the Cam and the one for the crank end play. I reused mine in my 125 rebuild . If not you will need a dial indicator and follow the spec for the clearance needed to make it correct.I had my 125 new rebuild running yesterday for about 20 minutes and it brought a big smile to my face, it sure was nice to hear it come to life.
You don`t have to remove the stub shaft that hold the balance gears and just skip that section . If you want to change your keys just use a small punch and tap it under the front edge of the key and it will lift and come out; but if the edges are in good shape I would leave it. For assembly lube anything that will stay on the moving parts to lube them till the engine runs is great . I hope you still have the washers for the end of the Cam and the one for the crank end play. I reused mine in my 125 rebuild . If not you will need a dial indicator and follow the spec for the clearance needed to make it correct.I had my 125 new rebuild running yesterday for about 20 minutes and it brought a big smile to my face, it sure was nice to hear it come to life.
Thanks Donald and congrats on the 125! I've been following your problems on here. I have washers but unfortunately I didn't pay attention to how many there were so gonna have an issue with that. And, don't have a dial indicator but can run by an engine close by and have them check it out. We'll get there - just lacking experience and confidence. Again, thanks and enjoy your snow!
TERRY - I've always left the studs the gernade gears mount on in place. They don't hurt anything as long as the gears are gone.
You can cross out everything in the manual about how to install the gears and write in, "Put gernade gears in a zip-lock bag and throw in a box" if you want. Just make real sure you get the timing marks for the camshaft right, and double-check it.
The key for the flywheel should be O-K as long as it shows no signs of shearing. The key for the S/G basket pulley I always replace with a longer one, as long a piece of key stock as you can use. The larger HP Kohler's tend to wallow out the keyway in the drive end of the crankshaft and a longer key helps prevent that.
I've never used Lucas engine assembly lube but as long as it's a thick oil lube it should be fine. Think the last engine I rebuilt I used something by Permatex, or maybe it was Felpro. I've even used Lubriplate white grease assembly lube before with great success. Comes in a big plastic squeeze tube, 6-8 oz, enough for several Kohlers.
Camshaft goes in first. Place the cam about where it belongs and slide the shaft into it but don't tap it in tight, measure the end play with FEELER gauges, they're cheap and you can buy them at Sears or any auto parts shop, maybe even a Big Box store or local hardware store, and remove the center shaft, add the amount of shims needed to get the free play to the low end of the range for the cam, .005"-.006" is good, then install all but one of the shims on the end away from the cam gear and put one shim on the other end. Tap the shaft home. Then install the crankshaft and set the blower housing plate into place and measure crankshaft end play with feeler gauges. Install that many shim gaskets allowing for the proper end play per the spec's in the manual, shoot for the low end of the range. Remove the plate and coat all the shim gaskets with some sort of gasket sealer, just a very thin swipe on one side of each gasket is enough and both metal surfaces, then reinstall the plate and torque the four bolts to spec. Double-check the end play of both the cam & crank and you should be done. Ohhhh.... and double check the cam/crank timing marks AGAIN.
And if you removed the governor assembly that all has to go back in first before the cam, etc. It's the last thing out of the engine, so has to be first going back in.
After governor, cam & crank are in, install piston, rings, rod, make sure the marks on the rod are facing the camshaft, and both marks on the rod line up, it's either right or it's wrong. Torque the rod bolts. Technically you shouldn't re-use the rod bolts on the new "Posi-loc" style rods. Also make sure you torque the rod bolts in steps, do not tighten one completely then the other.
Check the valve tappet clearance per spec's in the manualand adjust as needed, install the valve chamber breather plates & "Stuff", the carb, governor linkage, points & cover, oil pan, and use gasket sealer on the oil pan, just a thin swipe is enough. Install the head, torque in three steps in the order shown in the Kohler manual. No special coating or sealer required on the Kohler head gasket.
You can cross out everything in the manual about how to install the gears and write in, "Put gernade gears in a zip-lock bag and throw in a box" if you want. Just make real sure you get the timing marks for the camshaft right, and double-check it.
The key for the flywheel should be O-K as long as it shows no signs of shearing. The key for the S/G basket pulley I always replace with a longer one, as long a piece of key stock as you can use. The larger HP Kohler's tend to wallow out the keyway in the drive end of the crankshaft and a longer key helps prevent that.
I've never used Lucas engine assembly lube but as long as it's a thick oil lube it should be fine. Think the last engine I rebuilt I used something by Permatex, or maybe it was Felpro. I've even used Lubriplate white grease assembly lube before with great success. Comes in a big plastic squeeze tube, 6-8 oz, enough for several Kohlers.
Camshaft goes in first. Place the cam about where it belongs and slide the shaft into it but don't tap it in tight, measure the end play with FEELER gauges, they're cheap and you can buy them at Sears or any auto parts shop, maybe even a Big Box store or local hardware store, and remove the center shaft, add the amount of shims needed to get the free play to the low end of the range for the cam, .005"-.006" is good, then install all but one of the shims on the end away from the cam gear and put one shim on the other end. Tap the shaft home. Then install the crankshaft and set the blower housing plate into place and measure crankshaft end play with feeler gauges. Install that many shim gaskets allowing for the proper end play per the spec's in the manual, shoot for the low end of the range. Remove the plate and coat all the shim gaskets with some sort of gasket sealer, just a very thin swipe on one side of each gasket is enough and both metal surfaces, then reinstall the plate and torque the four bolts to spec. Double-check the end play of both the cam & crank and you should be done. Ohhhh.... and double check the cam/crank timing marks AGAIN.
And if you removed the governor assembly that all has to go back in first before the cam, etc. It's the last thing out of the engine, so has to be first going back in.
After governor, cam & crank are in, install piston, rings, rod, make sure the marks on the rod are facing the camshaft, and both marks on the rod line up, it's either right or it's wrong. Torque the rod bolts. Technically you shouldn't re-use the rod bolts on the new "Posi-loc" style rods. Also make sure you torque the rod bolts in steps, do not tighten one completely then the other.
Check the valve tappet clearance per spec's in the manualand adjust as needed, install the valve chamber breather plates & "Stuff", the carb, governor linkage, points & cover, oil pan, and use gasket sealer on the oil pan, just a thin swipe is enough. Install the head, torque in three steps in the order shown in the Kohler manual. No special coating or sealer required on the Kohler head gasket.
Dennis - found all my shims (have a bunch - prob from grenade gears) and have my feeler gauge. Are you saying that one shim will go between the front side of block and others on the bearing plate side? Also (and this will definitely show my ignorance) when they say "end play" I'm not sure if they're referring to the gap between the front of the block and cam (where the one shim you mentioned goes) or elsewhere? I'm starring at it now and my wife is about as nervous as I am with it on HER kitchen counter!
Terry-
The end play is simply the movement or "play" one can move the crankshaft lengthwise once installed. This endplay is determined by the number of gaskets used on the bearing plate. The endplay can also be measured with a feeler gauge and the manual shows how/where to measure.
The end play is simply the movement or "play" one can move the crankshaft lengthwise once installed. This endplay is determined by the number of gaskets used on the bearing plate. The endplay can also be measured with a feeler gauge and the manual shows how/where to measure.
Wayne - I think I get the crankshaft end play, it's the camshaft I'm trying to set. The manual doesn't mention anything about a shim between the gear end of the cam and the inside front of the block? Do I measure cam end play oh the gear end of the cam or bearing plate side of block. Manual sounds like cam shims only go on inside of block facing the bearing plate? Also, is there a washer that goes on the governor gear before i slide it on the shaft? thanks and determined!
NOTE: top image/info on each page is for Single Cylinder K Series. Bottom image/info on each page is for KT Series.
Here's a better view of the CAM Shaft info:
Kraig - perfect!! Doesn't show any shims between gear end of cam and front of block so gonna skip those it appears. As to the governor gear, still curious if there's a shim behind it? When I push it all the way on the shaft it catches a bit when I rotate it.
