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Archive through February 02, 2009
- Thread starter smitchell
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
jcartwright
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- Jim Cartwright
Dennis F - Copy that on the pre-work cleaning. I took the cover off the other day to see if I could spot the leak, and boy was I surprised. There was a layer of crud about a quarter inch thick on the top side. The bottom side looks really clean, so I wasn't expecting the rest to look so bad. I'm thinking I might just take the fenders off and give it a thorough cleaning seeing as I'm gonna need to get part of it clean to do this job right anyway. We'll see how it goes...
Jim
Jim
JIM - I think Kraig has a picture that shows about the dirtiest Hydro ever on a CC. Dirt/oil/trash was about an INCH thick.
Once You get the worst of the dirt off a quick cleaning every year just by removing the center tunnel cover keeps things fairly clean where the most heat is generated, the pump & motor.
Once You get the worst of the dirt off a quick cleaning every year just by removing the center tunnel cover keeps things fairly clean where the most heat is generated, the pump & motor.
Denny, not sure about the dirtiest but this one of mine was pretty bad. There might have been one of Charlie's that was dirtier.
Here's another of my 125s. This is the one I started to refurbish this past summer. The squirrels had started to stash pine cones in it!
well had a good cub day here and some seat time.Had a friend over and i had to push some of my snow banks back. i love to show what these will do. It was worth it to see the look
lol and lots of questions about my Cub.
Jim
Do it all when you replace the cork gasket, replace hytran and filter and do a check on the rest. while you there.
later Don T
Jim
Do it all when you replace the cork gasket, replace hytran and filter and do a check on the rest. while you there.
later Don T
Kevin S., my O is serial #20065 and had grease fittings in the spindles. The new bearings I got were pre-greased and sealed. I never did like that so I popped the seals out of the outboard side on each one and installed them like that. Hope it works. Nick
Brandon, make sure the wiring is correct, perhaps someone crossed something. Having written that, over time, current can heat up and deteriorate the plastic. Here's a wiring diagram to help you check the rest of the wiring.
KRAIG - You know....Looking at those Pic's....Almost makes You wonder if the hydro wouldn't stay cleaner without the blower fan...or better yet, put the fan on the back of the hydro some how and blow all the dust & dirt from the mower deck forward and away from the oily hydro unit. Maybe even if the fan blew forward trying to get cool, clean air from behind the tractor.
I know a year or two ago when I pulled the rearend out of the 72 to replace the axle carriers It was almost that dirty too.
I know a year or two ago when I pulled the rearend out of the 72 to replace the axle carriers It was almost that dirty too.
jcartwright
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- Jim Cartwright
Kraig - Thanks for the photos. I'll take some pictures before I start cleaning to add to the collection. I might just make a run at dirtiest hydro...
Don - I'll check with the PO (my uncle) and see when he serviced it last. He might have changed everything out before we traded cubs.
Don - I'll check with the PO (my uncle) and see when he serviced it last. He might have changed everything out before we traded cubs.
GREG - 7 HP Kohler has seven head bolts, 10 HP has nine. Exhaust port on 10 HP goes out the corner of the block at a 45 deg. angle, and the exh. goes out the 7 HP block parallel with the crankshaft.
10 HP has a flat bottom oil pan....a 12 & 14 HP will be similar except they have a "Sump" on the pan, a lowered portion to clear the oil pickup finger, and they won't sit securely on a flat surface.
There's also a 8 HP Kohler, they're identicle to the 7 HP except they have a 1/4" longer stroke for a bit more displacement. But You can't tell them from a 7 HP without disassembly.
10 HP has a flat bottom oil pan....a 12 & 14 HP will be similar except they have a "Sump" on the pan, a lowered portion to clear the oil pickup finger, and they won't sit securely on a flat surface.
There's also a 8 HP Kohler, they're identicle to the 7 HP except they have a 1/4" longer stroke for a bit more displacement. But You can't tell them from a 7 HP without disassembly.
Jim C,
Check the FAQ link up at the top of the page and Charlie's FAQ website for some great info on locating hydro leaks and learning more about these great tractors. Also, you will need to remove the lower siphon tube to remove the hydro pump. Be sure to put a jack underneath the drive shaft with a small amount of lift force on it back by the hydro unit when you drive out the spirol roll pin so that you don't damage the charge pump. Also, as Don T suggested, while you are at it, now would be a great time to pull the transmission rear end plate off to clean any suspended water globs out and change the HyTran oil. You can get the HyTran and rear cover plate gasket at your nearest Case IH dealer (cheaper) or Cub Cadet dealer. The cork gasket is only available from Cub Cadet dealers or several of fine sponsors above. Good luck.
Check the FAQ link up at the top of the page and Charlie's FAQ website for some great info on locating hydro leaks and learning more about these great tractors. Also, you will need to remove the lower siphon tube to remove the hydro pump. Be sure to put a jack underneath the drive shaft with a small amount of lift force on it back by the hydro unit when you drive out the spirol roll pin so that you don't damage the charge pump. Also, as Don T suggested, while you are at it, now would be a great time to pull the transmission rear end plate off to clean any suspended water globs out and change the HyTran oil. You can get the HyTran and rear cover plate gasket at your nearest Case IH dealer (cheaper) or Cub Cadet dealer. The cork gasket is only available from Cub Cadet dealers or several of fine sponsors above. Good luck.
The Original deck I have was made from new metal. The pulleys and rounded side slides I pulled from the old one. The deck pan is 3/16" with 12 GA sides. The two uprights in the front where 3/16" on the old one, but they are now 1/4".
How much do I have in it? That hard to say. My buddy owns a metal fab shop and I put in 10 hrs of my time helping him/crew build a crematory. Instead of being paid I offered him to buy the metal and bend the pan. I used his welders, grinder and plasma, ect. He has admitted that HE has gotten one hell of a deal. I am at his shop pretty often for this and that, so I think is was a fair deal.
How does that leaf guard work? Is that the yellow shield blocking the discharge? Also what is the long curved thingy over the discharged meant to do?
How much do I have in it? That hard to say. My buddy owns a metal fab shop and I put in 10 hrs of my time helping him/crew build a crematory. Instead of being paid I offered him to buy the metal and bend the pan. I used his welders, grinder and plasma, ect. He has admitted that HE has gotten one hell of a deal. I am at his shop pretty often for this and that, so I think is was a fair deal.
How does that leaf guard work? Is that the yellow shield blocking the discharge? Also what is the long curved thingy over the discharged meant to do?
3 point CAT "0" question for you guys with em. I see from the cub cadet 3 point illistration for the lift bar for the 782,682, 582... has a slot it in so it must allow the lower links to float. I downloaded the installation manual for a 982/Super Garden tractor 3 point and see the lift bar does not have a slot in it so I thought it must not float. Then I noticed reading on that the adjustable link is slid though the lower link and is kept from pulling out of the lower link by a spiral pin on the bottom to keep the adjustable bar in place and nothing else to fasten it to the lower link. There is a space between the lower link and the adjusting tube; does that allow the lower links to float, or is the whole thing rigid all the way though?
Rob
Rob
Brennan, the yellow plate, aka mulch plate just blocks the discharge opening so that the leaves and grass stay under the deck and get chopped up. The "long curved thingy" is meant to keep your feet away from the opening and thus the blades.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Rob-
You are correct... That space on the lift link of a SGT Cat-0 IS the only float in the system. At first glance it appears to be adquate, but I can tell you from experience that a "Super" is not an easy tractor to plow a nice deep furrow with. You have to constantly stay "on" the hyd lift lever to make sure the plow isn't either lifting out of the ground, or literally taking so much weight off the rear tires that they want to spin-out.
Don't get me wrong, a Super with a Mag 18, Mag 20, Onan, or Diesel is a GREAT tractor, I just wouldn't give one to an untrained operator at a PD simply because they would struggle to make it go down the furrow in a repectable manner.
You are correct... That space on the lift link of a SGT Cat-0 IS the only float in the system. At first glance it appears to be adquate, but I can tell you from experience that a "Super" is not an easy tractor to plow a nice deep furrow with. You have to constantly stay "on" the hyd lift lever to make sure the plow isn't either lifting out of the ground, or literally taking so much weight off the rear tires that they want to spin-out.
Don't get me wrong, a Super with a Mag 18, Mag 20, Onan, or Diesel is a GREAT tractor, I just wouldn't give one to an untrained operator at a PD simply because they would struggle to make it go down the furrow in a repectable manner.
