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Archive through December 30, 2011
- Thread starter ljones
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Marlin,
I believe that the light grommet is a pretty generic item available anywhere that sells semi tractor and trailer lighting supplies. NAPA's Item # is: LIT 50-40700-3. It is used to mount 4" reflectors and back up lights. Here is a pic.
I believe that the light grommet is a pretty generic item available anywhere that sells semi tractor and trailer lighting supplies. NAPA's Item # is: LIT 50-40700-3. It is used to mount 4" reflectors and back up lights. Here is a pic.
fcurrier
Well-known member
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
A long, confugalated year is fast coming to a close. Lucas: Amen in the seat advice - the next one I get will have the longer "seat bumpers" with it. Dan Bauer - sounds like you found a 123 that you have to put back together. Great restoration project. The 125 is the "prettied up" version and I'll never disagree with Kraig, but the 123 will always hold the special destinction of introducing the hydro trans to the Cub Cadet line. Marlin: Amen on the weights. Makes me wonder (knowing that a set of 26# weights should be available at $100 or less) what it would cost to liquid weight a pair of rears.
Did I ever tell you guys about Don T. and I picking potatoes? He always picked faster than me - yup, he was always a peck ahead.
Did I ever tell you guys about Don T. and I picking potatoes? He always picked faster than me - yup, he was always a peck ahead.
Marlin, I will hold off on liquid for a while. But I need weight. Liquid is cheap. I see some cadeters hang barbels and other stuff off the hitch lift. Seems reasonable and cheaper than official wheel weights but probably puts some stress on the wheel bearings.
Dan, I kind of liked the cultivator. It is not yellow but when you go back, throw it on your truck. When I get serious about gardening, I will know where to find it.
I will bet that I was exciting going through the barns.
I will bet that I was exciting going through the barns.
Anthony, if you mean the u shaped piece then yes it will work.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- 3,133
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Lucas J. I've heard and read about the Rim Guard stuff. It would still be messy if you had a nail get into the tire. Plus the hassle of installing the stuff. It takes time unless you make the equipment for quick filling.
Jeffrey W. I'd go for the barbell weights. Make the bracket for the wheels and go from there. Or make some concrete weights for the wheels using those popcorn tins that are always available year around. Get some make a bolt rod. Put four pieces through the rim holes and fasten the bolts to the rim with a washer and nut on each rod so the make a bolt is held in place. (You will need to do this to the top and back side of the bolt.) Now drill holes in the popcorn tin and slide over the make a bolt. Once you've done that then thread a nut down each bolt and place a large washer on each bolt and another nut, then tighten. That will help hold the bolt in place. You can do this a couple of times with the nut/washer combination for extra support once the concrete hardens. You will need to mark on each tin a pre determined height for when you pour the concrete mix into the tin. Before pouring the concrete be sure to oil the sides of the tin to help remove the tin after the concrete has set up. You will need to use a tin snips to cut away the sides of the tin afterwards for easier removal. One more thing... DO NOT pre cut the tin. This will weaken the sides since the top isn't there to hold everything together. I think that you pretty much have the jest of what I am trying to say here. If you want to then try using the SEARCH section for how to make the concrete weights. If i recall a member did that a couple of years ago. AND you will have about as much if not less than adding liquid weights in your project. (Paint the concrete the color of choice before adding to your tractor. From a distance no one will know and sometimes if done right from even up close it will be hard to tell they are concrete.)
Jeffrey W. I'd go for the barbell weights. Make the bracket for the wheels and go from there. Or make some concrete weights for the wheels using those popcorn tins that are always available year around. Get some make a bolt rod. Put four pieces through the rim holes and fasten the bolts to the rim with a washer and nut on each rod so the make a bolt is held in place. (You will need to do this to the top and back side of the bolt.) Now drill holes in the popcorn tin and slide over the make a bolt. Once you've done that then thread a nut down each bolt and place a large washer on each bolt and another nut, then tighten. That will help hold the bolt in place. You can do this a couple of times with the nut/washer combination for extra support once the concrete hardens. You will need to mark on each tin a pre determined height for when you pour the concrete mix into the tin. Before pouring the concrete be sure to oil the sides of the tin to help remove the tin after the concrete has set up. You will need to use a tin snips to cut away the sides of the tin afterwards for easier removal. One more thing... DO NOT pre cut the tin. This will weaken the sides since the top isn't there to hold everything together. I think that you pretty much have the jest of what I am trying to say here. If you want to then try using the SEARCH section for how to make the concrete weights. If i recall a member did that a couple of years ago. AND you will have about as much if not less than adding liquid weights in your project. (Paint the concrete the color of choice before adding to your tractor. From a distance no one will know and sometimes if done right from even up close it will be hard to tell they are concrete.)
Hello again !
I'm still in the process of learning all that I can regarding the 82 series Cub Cadets built by I.H. I would like to know specifically what the differences are between the 38A 44A 50A and the 38C 44C 50C I.H. built mower decks !? Looks like they are all the very same decks only the letter change difference !? I also have to wonder why, if this is so, I.H. made that letter change !? Then finally, which style of gauge wheels are correct for these decks !? I'm told that the black "frisbee" looking gauge wheels are not correct for the I.H. built "C" decks !? Any help or clarification with all of this will be greatly appreciated !! Thanks !!
Paul
I'm still in the process of learning all that I can regarding the 82 series Cub Cadets built by I.H. I would like to know specifically what the differences are between the 38A 44A 50A and the 38C 44C 50C I.H. built mower decks !? Looks like they are all the very same decks only the letter change difference !? I also have to wonder why, if this is so, I.H. made that letter change !? Then finally, which style of gauge wheels are correct for these decks !? I'm told that the black "frisbee" looking gauge wheels are not correct for the I.H. built "C" decks !? Any help or clarification with all of this will be greatly appreciated !! Thanks !!
Paul
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
Jeff W.,,,,,I made a weight out of a old stream trap I have several more of. I filled it with old nut,bolts,and steel scrap. It weighed out at 80 pounds when done.
It bolts up to the hitch plate and fits nicely here are a few pics and ask questions if you want
It bolts up to the hitch plate and fits nicely here are a few pics and ask questions if you want
Paul Burkle,
Click the Parts Lookup button above, enter in the model numbers of the decks you want to compare and it will show you all the mods made to each one.
Click the Parts Lookup button above, enter in the model numbers of the decks you want to compare and it will show you all the mods made to each one.
My grandsons Cub Cadet K241 was losing a lot of compression, so we decided to have it checked. Engine was torn down and taken to machine shop to be checked. Cylinder wall was worn and there was variation of up to .015 from top to bottom. Block was bored to .020 over. Head was also "cupped" by .016 and head and block were milled smooth and flat. Now my parts supplier tells me that I should have sent to ".020 over" piston to the machine shop at the same time I sent the block. Machine shop is local but several pullers highly recommended the shop. Assuming that the block is ".020 over", shouldn't the piston fit ? Do I have much to worry about ?
The past 2 years I've been working on saving a 1650 and have some time to share some photo's and say thanks to Dave Kirk of Kirk Engines Inc.
Dave has a vast knowledge of QL tractors and the quality of his parts I purchased are very good. He has helped me a lot on the way with my questions and concerns with rebuilding the engine. I've also purchased and installed his crankshaft balance kit, billet aluminum breather cover, super steel kit, and magnetic drain plug.
Engine is a K341 bored .010 over and the crank .010 under. New factory ISO mounts, engine carriage upgrade, new block internals, rebuilt carb.
Finally got it running this fall, but still need to do some tweaking to get it to start better.
Here are a few pictures of the crank shaft balance kit installed on the crank and a picture of my 1650.
Happy New Year!
Dave has a vast knowledge of QL tractors and the quality of his parts I purchased are very good. He has helped me a lot on the way with my questions and concerns with rebuilding the engine. I've also purchased and installed his crankshaft balance kit, billet aluminum breather cover, super steel kit, and magnetic drain plug.
Engine is a K341 bored .010 over and the crank .010 under. New factory ISO mounts, engine carriage upgrade, new block internals, rebuilt carb.
Finally got it running this fall, but still need to do some tweaking to get it to start better.
Here are a few pictures of the crank shaft balance kit installed on the crank and a picture of my 1650.
Happy New Year!
RLSmith,
IMO narrow frame gear drives are bullet proof but a bit harder to work on. Mostly mechanical components. Wide frames are easier to work on because you can remove the tunnel/draveshaft cover, but have more electrical stuff to go wrong.
IMO narrow frame gear drives are bullet proof but a bit harder to work on. Mostly mechanical components. Wide frames are easier to work on because you can remove the tunnel/draveshaft cover, but have more electrical stuff to go wrong.
dpbauer
Well-known member
Jeff W-
The steam pipe trap fitting looks great! How did you mount the trap to the hitch plate? I'd be interested in building something like from one of your steam traps. lets talk logistics, danWI
The steam pipe trap fitting looks great! How did you mount the trap to the hitch plate? I'd be interested in building something like from one of your steam traps. lets talk logistics, danWI
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