Archive through December 18, 2016

[jmusits]

So, I have been thinking about this a lot...this is my only tractor and I rely upon it for snow duty. I also have two children under the age of 3.

My limited time along with my relative inexperience here is leading me to think that having the local shop do the machine work, re-assembly and bench testing is my best bet. That way all I have to do is throw the engine back in the tractor and I am good to go.

My other main concern is that with my inexperience here I get things back from the local shop, re-assemble everything and then something doesn't work. That will add extra time to this process and then I am in a position where I am second guessing my work and/or the shops machine work, not necessarily being able to pinpoint the issue.

If I had a backup machine or more free time I would certainly be diving into this as it is something I do want to learn. I'll be keeping my eyes open for a k301 or a narrow frame that need some engine work.

Thanks for all of the advice and words of encouragement along the way. You guys really are great!

Charlie, I'll be placing an order soon once I know everything that I need.

 

[nbextermueller]

Earl,
As the old wise racecar saying goes,
Speed cost money... How fast do you want to go?

 

[nbextermueller]

Jason,

My kids are 7,5,3 and 4m. I here ya on the time crunch.

No ones going to fault you if you want to just send it out. Just be sure to discuss a firm schedule with him. I just want to encourage every one to work on them if they can.

Let us know how he does. Finding a good small engine machine shop is getting harder and harder.

 

[danderson]

Adam- As Charlie told me one time use this to shorten your links: tinyurl.com

 

[dwales]

Hey Nic, I was told the secret to speed is weight transfer.

You take a heavy load of cash out of your wallet and put it in your engine.

 

[mfrade]

OK Harry, it just "felt" like it I guess.

Jason has decided a good path for himself so we'll all have to wait for his next update.

 

[rjkaroses]

I have a Cub Cadet 109. I have a transmission leak. It is too dirty at this tome to see exactly where its coming from. I'm guessing I'm going to take it apart and pressure wash. My initial thinking is the leak is coming from where the pump is connected to the transmission. I will for sure drain the tranny and replace with new oil and filter. What do you use for transmission fluid?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jason M. I agree with what you've said about time being of essence. Nic is right about encouraging others to do it themselves and save money while learning. When I retire in a couple or years I'll have more time. For now though I need things to run so I sacrifice the added expense.

Randy K. Your 15U was actually tested when new with HyTran the same thing that the big IH tractors used. I recommend staying with that or the new improved formula. Years back Sauer Danfoss developed their own hydraulic fluid and now uses that.

 

[eford]

Randy, use hytran like Marlin suggests or the newer, he would know!
Also, just start with a good cleaning of the rear end, hopefully you'll be removing it from the frame. Best way to clean and check it out. You can do a search on here for I believe it to be "infamous cork gasket" and gain a lot of information. Having the service manuals will help too.

 

[rjkaroses]

Thanks Marlin,
Can I get the HyTran fluid at the local IH shop? I have the plow on it now and not sure if I want to tackle the job at this time. Might just let it leak till spring, or at least when it warms up a bit. Its -9 degrees in my area tonight.

 

[eford]

Should be able to, or a Cub Cadet dealer. Just check level before each use if it's not bad. Or our favorite CC Specialties up above

 

[dschwandt]

Randy, should run about $15/gal, ($3.75/Qt.) that is if you buy it in a 5 gal bucket.

Your hydro holds 14 pints, or 7 Quarts.

 

[digger]

All Case-IH dealers carry Hytran Ultra Traction.

DON'T buy it off the shelf!

Take your own jugs and buy it from the bulk tank!
It should be around $8.00 to $11.00 a gallon.

 

[jmusits]

Thanks for the support everyone. I'll be heading over to the shop with the engine this afternoon. I'll post an update once I have a diagnosis.

 

[rjkaroses]

I checked with a local mechanic and he said that I cold use reg 10W30. I wasn't too crazy with that suggestion. Thanks for the info. I'm also guessing that you buy it from the bulk tank because it is cheaper. I checked with CC Specialties and they get $32 per gallon. And I'm not real crazy about buying 5 gallons. I'll have to call around.

 

[mpatterson]

Adam,
Your rear work light seems to be alright the way you have it mounted. Ever find it was "in the way" ever? Did you hook it into you front lights or you give it a separate switch?

 

[jbaker]

Randy never use oil use hytran only

 

[hydroharry]

Randy K - sounds to me like you have the "infamous cork gasket" failure that's common on the hydro pump to rearend mount. You really don't need to split the tractor and remove the rearend to replace the gasket. You should find all the details in the FAQs (Blue hi-lited link at the top of the page) or Charlie's FAQ's which is red hi-lited on the FAQs first page.

With regard to rearend fluid, hopefully you've got a local Case/IH dealer where you can get the bulk HyTran Ultra as Digger (Charlie) suggested. You may not realize but CC Specialties is Digger's site. I'm sure he carries the HyTran in jugs for those people that don't have local availability.

I also noticed you're located in Campbellsport, WI. There is a fairly frequent contributor on here to the Pulling and Hot Rodding Thread, and he's also located in Campbellsport. You might want to shoot him an e-mail. Do a search for Don Vogt on here using names of authors and whole words only, and you can get to his profile where you'll find his e-mail address. I'm almost positive Don will know where you can get the HyTran Ultra locally - or maybe he'll even have a 25 or 50gal drum. He can probably also give you good info on the replacing the "infamous cork gasket".

 

[abriar]

Mike P

The light has never been in the way where it's at. I need to find a lower wattage bulb for it. Between the 55W bulb in it and the 2-35W headlights, the generator can't keep up at below half throttle. I may go with LED lights to lower the electrical demand. The rear light is wired into the headlight switch for now but I've thought of adding a separate switch for it.

 

[eford]

As for the work light, there are some out there that have a built in switch. So you could wire it so it's on with the headlights and flip on when needed. I had an old one when I used the rear grader blade as my first snow blade going in reverse, but it's long since bit the dust. It was just like the round tractor lights you can find at a farm store but had a switch on it's housing.

I've found out on many different brands and makes that you always use the manual recommended fluids when it comes to trans, hydraulic, etc. Almost ruined a good pump once.