Archive through December 18, 2008

[dwshaffer]

need some more help with my model 70 cub have it starting but as soon as i release the starter button it quites. going back to check all my wireing make sure it is right. Does it mater on which side of a switch you put the wire can it be backwards and still work? still learning the tricks of the trade from people like you thanks for any help

 

[junderwood]

Matt,
Call Madson's, I am pretty sure Scott has them.

 

[jsdavis]

Matt
CC specialties,above,under pto clutches/creepers.
Its a bronze pto button,brass I dont know where!!

 

[jlunderwood]

Hi:

I just got a new plastic gas tank for my Cub 124. I was curious if I need the fuel filter bail with the new tank? The tank already has a shutoff switch installed. Also, how exactly do I retrofit a fuel line to the carb? Currently, I have a fitting on the carb holding a small pipe leading to the fuel filter. Can I simply run a hose from the new tank and clamp it to the carb?

 

[aaytay]

Lip-
I had the same thing that Richard posted a picture of happen to the rockshaft of my 1872. I just heated it up and got it straightened back out, then made a piece which basically doubled the thickness of the bent part and had it welded on to the original one.

I'll see if I can find a picture here....

 

[nhasson]

Thanks guys, I will try another rubber coupler. The flange on the hydro fits good and snug but I did notice the way the couplers seemed stretched. Either way it is still a much better improvement over the original design. Thanks again, Nick

 

[mstetar]

thanks, but what exactly is the advantage to the bronze Vs. OEM

 

[dbellamy]

Kraig & others, the Original plowed flawlessly with the non trip blade. I have been warned about the dangers of the non trip so I have planned accordingly. My road has no lips anywhere and is grass on both sides so its a safe zone for plowin, I did plow about 6 blocks of sidewalk (newer) which is blacktop and I have looked it over and only found one spot that would catch so was cautious there. As another precaution where the blade is adjustable for angle I used a soft hitch pin which either broke or fell out at one point which allowed the blade to swing freely side to side. I thought about putting a nail in there but decided to go with the softer option. As for traction the ags were amazing. No extra weight or fluid, 7 lbs of air, only spun a couple times one wheel at a time so was able to move my butt to regain traction. hehe. I am a bit heavy myself which finnaly came in handy lol.
here is the sidewalk I did the other day as well as all the driveways on the left. It was a blast.

 

[sstanton]

I see I'm not the only person with electrical troubles! I'm still having them but I'm still going to plow the 8 to 14 inches of the white stuff we are supposed to get here in southern NY! I cant wait!! I'll slap the charger on it get it running and hope for the best! Too bad I dont have anymore weight I can add! I myself go about 155 so I dont really add too much to the cub. I got it stuck last week and had to pull it out with the Blazer. I though about adding some of the old bricks I have to the storage compartment underneath my seat and hope that helps!

 

[sblunier]

Cold starting aids:

I store my Cubs in an unheated shed, and both of my primary snow machines are 782's with hydros (obviously). At one time, I also used a 149.

I have found that the best cold starting aid is a small trickle charger for the battery. A company called Battery Tender sell a product called Battery Tender Jr.

You plug it into a wall outlet like a transformer and attach the alligator clips or permenant eyelets to the battery. There is a slick 2 pin disconnect that allows you to unplug it like a trailer wiring harness.

It keeps the batteries topped off and ready to go so you get full cranking power in all temps. You can leave them on at all times (unlike the heaters) and I've never had one that wouldn't start, even down below zero. It eliminates the waiting game of heaters and uses less electricity too.

Just another option.....

 

[kide]

Matt:
Actually, in a perfect world, the OEM button is fine.. In a perfect world, the driven part of the clutch spools down quickly, so the button sees very little wear. In our world, if the clutch plates drag, or there's other issues causing the clutch to not immediately release, the button takes significant wear from the matching thrust button it pushes against until the driven part of the clutch stops spinning. The bronze ( or brass) throwout buttons last longer in this situation.

Two things:
1: During the later half of the 1x9 series, IHC added an external brake to the PTO clutch assembly to stop the clutch rapidly.
2: If you idle the engine down before shutting the PTO off, it stops sooner.....

 

[rchristensen]

Gregg L. I just heated the lift arm part and straightened it. It has been good since 2003 but then I only have a 50 inch deck on it. A snow blower would probably be a lot heavier.

 

[fcurrier]

Scott: I know weight has been discussed to the point of being beaten to death, but I had a pleasant experience today. I finally dug the snowthrower out and stuck it back on the 149 (Fernando) and couldn't believe the difference from last winter. A glare ice base again this year, but I'm running 100# of wheel weights instead of 50# last year and have tri-ribs on front (same turfs/chains on rear). Last winter I had 100# of old Kohler flywheels set up on the Brinly hitch. I didn't use them today and really think the wheel weights are the way to go. (Our "seat weights" are similar)! For weight under the seat on a 106, a 50cal. ammo box full of melted lead wheel weights would give you 150# or so.

 

[jsdavis]

Don
6 Blocks!!!wow thats great!great picture.

 

[rchristensen]

Douglas Shaffer. I've never worked on a 70 but looking at one of Rolland's wiring diagrams it looks like you may have the wire from the (B) lead of the voltage regulator going to the wrong side of the push to start switch.

 

[towens]

O.K. I need some more help with my cub. I needed to know how to adjust my brakes. My 106 has disk brakes and i have never adjusted them before.

 

[klejeune]

Cory:

http://cubfaq.com/126brakes.html

I just did this to my 127 with disc brakes. I locked down the pedal with the first notch on the lock and just tightened up the nuts on the brake rod until it sucked down the pads on the disc. Then when I pressed down the rest of the way on the pedal it has brakes that work now.

 

[acoffey]

hello guys i was wondering if who ever posted the info on the homemade wheel weights out of cement and cookie tins can repost that i looked in the search area and couldent find them

 

[kide]

Andrew:
Archive ....October 30th, 8:08 P.M.

 

[glippert]

Well, I found the problem with my hydaulic lift not retracting all the way. The good news is that nothing appears to be bent or damaged. Instead, I discovered that the access opening for the cylinder connecting pin has a "flange" on the inside of the frame, and the head of the pin was hitting that "flange." There's very little clearance (about 1/16") between the 3-point lift bar and the frame (with that "flange").

This is the access opening.

Here's the pin. Notice the single lock washer (rather than flat washers to keep the pin "in" as far as possible).

Notice how shiny the head of the pin is from constant rubbing against the inside of the frame and/or the "flange" of the access opening.

You might be able to see how the opening has a "flange" (approx 1/16") inside the frame.

I'm not sure what the best fix will be, but I plan to start with flat washers as spacers to keep the pin inserted as far as possible, hopefully keeping the head away from the "flange" on the frame. Eventually, I'll probably tear it apart far enough to get a grinder in there and take off the "flange."

Thanks to all for your inputs.