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Archive through December 12, 2008
- Thread starter mstetar
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Can anyone help me with a 42" Haban Snow Thrower?
The Snow Thrower was on a CC 1711 IIRC. From the CC Parts Look Up it looks like the H42. Again, the Parts Look Up shows the H42 as an attachment for the IH 1250 that I have.
When I try to install it on the 1250 the top bracket on the mounting frame (bracket with 3 holes on the top of part number 25) hits the front part of the frame before the shaft can engage the quick attach latches. It needs to come back another 3/16" +/-. OK, I could get a welding shop to move the bracket 1/2", but. . .
It looks like that when it is mounted, the pulley will be about 3-1/4" forward of the shaft for the QA. On the 1250, the pulley on the PTO is about 2" forward of this shaft. These pulleys are too close together to be out of alignment by 1-1/4"!
This is beside the fact that the belt for the Haban is 5/8" and my belt for my mower deck for the 1250 is just 3/8".
Does anyone have any mounting instructions for the Haban Snow Throwers? Or any experience?
I am thinking I might have to sell this one and try to find a different snow thrower, but the Parts Look Up says that it should work?
Thanks, for any and all help!
The Snow Thrower was on a CC 1711 IIRC. From the CC Parts Look Up it looks like the H42. Again, the Parts Look Up shows the H42 as an attachment for the IH 1250 that I have.
When I try to install it on the 1250 the top bracket on the mounting frame (bracket with 3 holes on the top of part number 25) hits the front part of the frame before the shaft can engage the quick attach latches. It needs to come back another 3/16" +/-. OK, I could get a welding shop to move the bracket 1/2", but. . .
It looks like that when it is mounted, the pulley will be about 3-1/4" forward of the shaft for the QA. On the 1250, the pulley on the PTO is about 2" forward of this shaft. These pulleys are too close together to be out of alignment by 1-1/4"!
This is beside the fact that the belt for the Haban is 5/8" and my belt for my mower deck for the 1250 is just 3/8".
Does anyone have any mounting instructions for the Haban Snow Throwers? Or any experience?
I am thinking I might have to sell this one and try to find a different snow thrower, but the Parts Look Up says that it should work?
Thanks, for any and all help!
mstetar
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- Matt (Diesel Creek)
Jason D... the fenders dont get in the way... I just don't know if i like the fender look, although without them when im using it i feel like im sitting on a death trap!
Anyone got a side by side comparison photo of a tractor with and without the fenders???
Thanks
Anyone got a side by side comparison photo of a tractor with and without the fenders???
Thanks
Matt,
Ken, I do believe that the Parts Lookup may be wrong. The H42 and H48 were designed for use on the 82 series Cubs. I do have a manual for it that I could email, it's ~7.4MB.
Matt, more:
Matt, more:
mstetar
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- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
Thanks Kriag!
now for my next question!
The PO of my 100 drilled extra holes in the seat mounting plate (i guss to allow for leg room)... and now that im restoring it i want to fill them in i was guessing the best way to do it would be to weld it up then grind it down??? could the same affect be done with JB weld, or Body filler??? or would that not last and/or not look as good?
now for my next question!
The PO of my 100 drilled extra holes in the seat mounting plate (i guss to allow for leg room)... and now that im restoring it i want to fill them in i was guessing the best way to do it would be to weld it up then grind it down??? could the same affect be done with JB weld, or Body filler??? or would that not last and/or not look as good?
Ken, OK, I'll be sending it in about an hour, I'm recording a live audio webcast and if I send a large file now it'll buffer and I'll loose some audio.
Matt, weld and grind gets my vote.
Matt, weld and grind gets my vote.
Hi, I am new here I recently picked up a 1450 with a loader, it needs some tlc altough it starts runs drives hydro has a slight whine so I am changing the fluid and filter.I have a list of things to do to it. but thats later. heres some pics
Ken, manual is on it's way.
Patrick, welcome!
Very nice loader and Cub.
Patrick, welcome!
Very nice loader and Cub.
Ken, Oops, I got a delivery failure message; "Msg Size greater than allowed by Remote Host".
Matt S. - Weld those holes shut. Don't J-B weld them. Where's Da Grump when You need him?
Patrick D. - Welcome to the forum, Nice looking 1450 & loader, doesn't look like it needs much work. That wouldn't happen to be a Lightning p/u back there under those jackets?
Patrick D. - Welcome to the forum, Nice looking 1450 & loader, doesn't look like it needs much work. That wouldn't happen to be a Lightning p/u back there under those jackets?
Matt
weld em up!!!I just welded three holes in me frame PO drilled they were about 1" across.I used a wire feed welder.Kendell suggested using copper at the back of the hole.It worked great and the holes came out clean.The copper is a backer to help you draw a beed around and across the hole so the bead dont fall out.and the weld wont stick to it.I just smashed a copper tube flat and used that!If you look in the "sandbox" under paint tips and restoration tips you will see the progress.
Patric welcome Sir
Very nice loader.I want one and know where one is just sitting on a off topic tractor.Its a danc
nly problem is my wants are bigger than my wallet!!
That reminds me could someone suggest a couple people who have loaders so I could ask a few questions off the fourm about value?I Know "dont ask how much"!!Charlie nailed me a couple of times a while ago!!LOL NOTE I am not asking how much loaders are worth here on the forum!!
weld em up!!!I just welded three holes in me frame PO drilled they were about 1" across.I used a wire feed welder.Kendell suggested using copper at the back of the hole.It worked great and the holes came out clean.The copper is a backer to help you draw a beed around and across the hole so the bead dont fall out.and the weld wont stick to it.I just smashed a copper tube flat and used that!If you look in the "sandbox" under paint tips and restoration tips you will see the progress.
Patric welcome Sir
Very nice loader.I want one and know where one is just sitting on a off topic tractor.Its a danc
nly problem is my wants are bigger than my wallet!! That reminds me could someone suggest a couple people who have loaders so I could ask a few questions off the fourm about value?I Know "dont ask how much"!!Charlie nailed me a couple of times a while ago!!LOL NOTE I am not asking how much loaders are worth here on the forum!!
kide
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Tom:
I'm still looking. I can tell you that at one time you could buy the resistors and they were different for 6, 12 and 24 volt systems... Anybody???? Has anyone got a good regulator on the shelf and a good ohmmeter? What is needed is the value between the ground and the high side of the resistor, with the points open on the regulator (the resistor is in parallel with one of the coils..)
I'm still looking. I can tell you that at one time you could buy the resistors and they were different for 6, 12 and 24 volt systems... Anybody???? Has anyone got a good regulator on the shelf and a good ohmmeter? What is needed is the value between the ground and the high side of the resistor, with the points open on the regulator (the resistor is in parallel with one of the coils..)
sblunier
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Thanks to a nice little UPS box from Kent Wood, I recently added PS and a super steer front axle to my 782. Parts were off of an 1862/64, so the column had to be lengthened. I used an old steering gear for the shaft and column tube, and an old steering wheel to mate to the splines (welded steering wheel hub to shaft and connected tube with exhaust pipe coupling).
Super steer adds about 2" to the overall height and pushes the front tires forward some. I had to clearance the thrower frame and the PTO guard, as well as switch back to straight lift arms because the curved ones were hitting the drive shaft. (I made a new set with about 3/4" longer CTC distance on the holes to correct for the "up hill" ride of the 782 with the SS axle).
Steers like a dream with the thrower on, and turns really short too!!!!!
Put the soft cab and a new exhaust elbow on it tonight (1-1/2" chrome drain pipe exhaust, as suggested by someone on the forum...keeps the muffler from blowing right on the chute).
Super steer adds about 2" to the overall height and pushes the front tires forward some. I had to clearance the thrower frame and the PTO guard, as well as switch back to straight lift arms because the curved ones were hitting the drive shaft. (I made a new set with about 3/4" longer CTC distance on the holes to correct for the "up hill" ride of the 782 with the SS axle).
Steers like a dream with the thrower on, and turns really short too!!!!!
Put the soft cab and a new exhaust elbow on it tonight (1-1/2" chrome drain pipe exhaust, as suggested by someone on the forum...keeps the muffler from blowing right on the chute).
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dad and I had a nice BS session with Gus & Pat Erickson today. They stopped by at the farm on their way back from picking up some BIG IH horsepower for their Binder pulling truck....really cool!!!!
Good to see you guys again!!!
Good to see you guys again!!!
Kendell
This is the contact you want open?
the resistor looks coroded here but when i took the ohms I cleaned the contact point.you want to measure resistance between these two points?
Again this is the contact I opened the one directly on top of the resistor and tied into it.
And finaly my reading 67 ohms. I took all the pictures just to make sure this is what you wanted Kendell!! Hope it helps.I have nothing to compare it to.The VR is NOT brand new and came off a 123.It worked properly when removed.67 sound about right?
This is the contact you want open?
the resistor looks coroded here but when i took the ohms I cleaned the contact point.you want to measure resistance between these two points?
Again this is the contact I opened the one directly on top of the resistor and tied into it.
And finaly my reading 67 ohms. I took all the pictures just to make sure this is what you wanted Kendell!! Hope it helps.I have nothing to compare it to.The VR is NOT brand new and came off a 123.It worked properly when removed.67 sound about right?
