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Archive through August 26, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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nbextermueller

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
909
displayname
Nic Bextermueller
Harry, surely you have been around Union Carpenters. A 1 1/2" tolerance is absolutely an acceptable number to them.

As my union carpenter friends ALWAYS said about their job site:
"I can't see it from my house!"
 
I'm thinking Harry's wife has accepted that 1 1/2" tolerance for years with no problem!!!!
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Hydro -

Nice to see you join the OTF discussion w/ a "WTF" and a "RFG" right out the gate!
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Now to answer your question, is 1-1/2" tolerance acceptable?
Answer is NO! And since the "workers" at the Jackson Tennessee Carlisle Tire plant, have no control whatsoever concerning the size, shape, and form of the tire molds means that wether they are union or non-union has no bearing on the measurements of my Tru Powers!

Since my less than 1 month old Tru's actual height measure is 21-31/32", a difference of 1-1/32" from advertised height, Then YES!!!

That is 100% acceptable for me and probably ALL Tru Power owners across the board!
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It might not be a RFG answer, but it's all I got!
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Panther Nic -

We got union & non-union at the table, but we ain't sayin grace till politic and religion get here!!!!
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David S -

OMG I'm telling my kids ALL the Time about the dangers of Texting and Driving!!!! I'm glad your son and the people in car are ALIVE!!!!!

Actually my wife and myself have both had close calls doing that exact same thing!!!!
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That very well may surpass Drunk Driving accidents and fatalities before long, if it hasn't ALREADY!!!!!????


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Jason - I made a typo. I typed 1-1/2 and meant 1-1/32. Now, since 23" = 736/32nds the 1-1/32nd you're missing is 4.483695652%. Lets just round that off to 4.5% and present some questions.

When you fill your car/truck with gas and put in 22gals according to the pump, and PAY FOR 22 GALs, and then find out the pump has a 4.5% measuring tolerance and you only got 21 gals, are you gonna be happy? You paid for 22 gals but only got 21. Are you gonna find another gas station?

Putting aside your answer for now - you might be able to resolve the whole situation if you get those Tru-Powers mounted and inflated AND THEN measure them up!!!!! WTH are you waiting for?????

David S - geez, that sure was an interesting story and video. The guy in the car is really _ _ _ _ lucky. I'm wondering what your son was thinking - he was going over a bridge with a car sideways against his front bumper.
 
Jason,

Don't worry.
I went and measured my 23x8.5's, and with the maximum recommended inflation of 22 psi., they measured 22.25 inches.
That leaves a deficit of only .75 inches!!!
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Don't you always round up to the next whole number?
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Ever buy a 2"x4" piece of lumber that was actually 2"x4"?
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Don't tell Harry it's only 1-1/2" x 3-1/2"!!
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It's FRIDAY!!!
 

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Hydro -

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YES I believe you are Correct! All this uninflated measuring may be a waste of time!!!
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WTH I'm waiting for is a Day I'm not Roasting on Roof Top, welding cutting & grinding in the blistering HOT sun dying of dehydration and heat exhaustion!!!

Off all weekend,
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Hopefully have a pic or 4 or 9 by Sunday!
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Marty -

LoL

Fastest Draw this side of Mississippi, sent Shultzie w/ tail tucked!
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What is the deal with removing these balance gears in kohler single engines? I know they come loose and can crack and break the block. What exactly makes the gear come loose? Does it break apart, bearing seizes or comes loose? snap ring wears thru...ect.
 
Rob-From what I understand the needle bearings wear and hears start to wobble.
Jason- Those 2X4's were 2x4 before they dried out. I have some rough saw 2x4's that I pulled from an old house that are 2X4 and they're heavy. Probably Doug Fir. Hey, everybody have a great weekend
 
Not so sure about the quality of this carb from Chalmers. I pulled the main needle and looked at it under my dissecting scope. It looks like the bit used to drill the needle holes had a serious case of the wobbles. The outer wall of the needle is scooped, whereas on my original they are clean as a whistle. Furthermore the hole near the pointed tip does not even go through both walls of the needle like it does in my original needle. Can that single hole be by design, or is this really that sloppily made? A carburetor shaped object?
 
Well Kirk L -

Still Waiting!!!

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Gonna seal these beads only way I know how,,,

If you read this tomorrow, "Please" Do me a favor and Don't tell me how I could have saved myself a whole bunch of time, grief, effort, and Bodily Injury!!!!

OK!

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Jason,

You wouldn't happen to be using the starting fluid method that truckers use?
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Jim,
That process works good. And makes alot of noise, too.

Charlie,
Now that is funny! Just coughed my coffee all over my computer screen.......
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Right in the middle of rebuilding 4 PTO's today, the wife comes and says, we have to run to Fargo right now! LOL
6 bear mounts, 4 bear heads, 2 wolf pelts, 18 birds, 2 wolf mounts, 6 bear rugs and 2 Grizzly rugs!
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Jason,

If you don't already know, wrap a small ratchet tie-down around the center of the tire.
then ratchet it tight as you can.
Put the air in until the beads seat, and then release the tie-downs.
Then fill tires with air. This is a lot safer and quieter.
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I thought 23x10.50-12 tires were for 10.5" rims instead of 7" rims.
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Charlie,

And I thought my wife was bad for bringing home shoes all the time!
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Jason,

Starting fluid trick works, but can be dangerous. I could explain it, but probably easier just to look up a video that's out there that shows how to do it. Just be careful.

Or...try cranking down a ratchet strap looped around the center of the tire tread. This will push the beads outward. Release the strap as soon as the tire starts to take air.

Good luck!

(under edit) Marty types faster than me...
 
Jason,

You may have already done this but make sure you have the core removed from the valve stem when trying to seat the beads. You will get a harder blast of air with the core removed. As soon as beads seat, quickly place core back in valve stem.
 
Oh good it's still Friday. I rebuild my 1880 Victorian in Stillwater MN, formerly the mill town for the MN/WI pinery. Not only were the 2x4s 2"x4" the roof was framed with 16' long 2x8s that were knot free. My mom made a chest for me out of some 1x30(!) sub flooring that had to come out because of scattered rot. I think if I could have magically stacked it's lumber up, all de-nailed and ready to go, I could have tripled my money.

Anyway, historically a rough cut 2"x 4" stick planed down to 1.5"x3.5" S4S. After most modular sizes became fixed, such as a nominal 2x4, the march of progress continued. Now with the precision of modern tools and sharpness of modern alloys, A 2x4 never is 2"x4". The mills get a lot more lumber out of each tree by slicing them thinner with blades that don't require much planing to finishing them.
 
Marty,
If I remember right from what I have read and seen--
8.50's were mounted on 7" wheels
10.50's were mounted on 8.5" wheels
 
Josh, I know it works. Seen it done in person on a semi truck tire. It works but sure is dangerous!
 

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