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Archive through August 24, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bmcmeen

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
2,106
displayname
Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Art -

If it was that simple. It's not a discrete part. It comes WITH the diagonal mufflers, but not separately. The only one Cub Cadet lists is the U-bolt style.

Although everything has it's price, I'm sure they'd rip one off a muffler and sell it to me
lol.gif
 
Bryan-
Yea, you're prolly right. I'll back off now, but I just couldn't resist.
happy.gif


Have you tried a local muffler shop?
 
Hello all

Ryan M.

On the manuals. Can I get that blue ribbon service manual from Cub Cadet or do I have to get that elsewhere? I don't know but from listening to others talk I didn't think you could get those anymore? I would definatly like one though.

anyone else!

I could use some help with understanding something or what I need to modify.

I have a 50" deck that works on my 1650 and 1450. I want to be able to use that deck with my 782D now as well.

So I am guessing I have to drill a hole to move the eye bolt over some to fit the X82 mule drive. can someone out there tell me the measurments on that difference for drilling that hole?

And I assume I need to change the pulley on the center spindle as well.

Is there anything Else i need to do to get this to work properly?

Thanks
 
Steve, Kevin- Well, I'm glad that I'm not the ONLY one to find that bushing AWOL... but I must be the Universal Magnetic Attractor Of Bushingless Cubs (UMAOBC)... my 109's bushing was missing (I made a new one), the Loader-Mutt's bushing was cracked (I made a new one), the diesel-project's bushing was gone (frame was damaged up front, so I cut the frame off and grafted on a piece of another frame in the 'stretch'). My dad's 127 frame bushing was still on the pivot pin, but broken loose and barely-hangn' there. I cleaned it up, pushed it back in, and welded it back in place.

I've got a 127 parts tractor that still has the bushing, and it's intact, and I think the 147 roller is still okay, too. From what I saw, most of the rear bushings were just 'tacked' on in two places. I figured that being the case, that the lost-bushing-scenario was nature-of-the-beast. Apparently my status as UMAOBC probably indicated that all my Cubs were made on FRIDAY... :)
 
Mark- I'm not an authority on that particular deck, but to make that deck work on your 782D, you'll need to change the carbeurator fuse. Call one of the sponsors for a new one, but be prepared to wait a bit... they're kinda scarce! :)
 
Yes the 50" deck will work on the 782D, as will a 44" or later 46".

You can actually use the hanger and everything off your 1650 or 1450. Just swap it over to your 782D. You would need to change out the center pully though.

On the service manual, you could try a Cub Cadet dealer for a comparable Blue Service manual. I don't know for sure if they have anything, maybe Ken Updike could chime in here to let us all know.
 
Dave K ,whats I carbeurator fuse??

Mark R. email me I can make you a tempate off of a 82 ser. deck if you can wait for snail mail.
 
Travis>
I hope you check your E-mail befor this friday, I need parts.
 
Charlie ,must be a up north thing ,it don`t get as cold here in western Pa.
 
I have consulted the FAQ's here and other places and need a bit of help.
What is the gap set to between the PTO clutch and the button on the lever? On a 102


(Message edited by lbuttke on August 24, 2004)
 
hehe.

I'll check on those carb heater fuses... See who can help me...

You do realize that I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but I don't fall for everything..

THanks for your help guys!
 
Lonny -

About the thickness of a matchbook cover...
 
Steve B,
I did that steering mod on my 123 and 149. You only have to move the hole 3/8" closer to the center pivot to get it to steer "stop to stop".
I measure 3/16" from the edge of the existing
hole and center punch it. Then weld the old hole shut and drill a new hole at the punch mark.
21090.jpg

It doesn't increase the effort noticably at all.

Bryan,
I believe the pipe is the same size as the Farmall
cub and there are companies making repros of that style clamp for the Cubs. C&G should carry them.

Ryan M,
I believe you have to at least change the idler pulleys
also becuase of the wider belt. I'm not sure if the mule drive and lift frame will work even if you do change the idlers.
 
Have started a major fix on my model 100 clutch and drive shaft. I've taken the engine out and I cannot get the rear roll pin out of the drive shaft (the one at the front of the transmission). I can't get to it! Looks to me like one has to start with the drive shaft and then build a tractor around it! Can anyone tell me what to do PLEASE! I've looked at FAQ and have manuals. I have read them and can't figure how to get to the pin to be able to move it. Hammering from under the tractor I can't get enough omph to move the pin. Do I get a bigger hammer? Suggestions please. Thanks
 
Mike T.-Here's a stock muffler turned up on the diesel. You don't want much more weight than that,less is better because of the likelihood of the manifold cracking.
21092.jpg
 
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