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Archive through August 23, 2007
- Thread starter ctrost
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dave, you do NOT need to remove that pin. Once you get the cup with the "H" pattern out the rest should come out. The "H" pattern restricts the movement of the shift lever, with it out of the way the shift lever should pivot enough to allow it to clear that pin. BTW, that pin is there to prevent the shift lever from rotating. It fits in a slot in the cup that is welded to the shift lever, the one that is cracked on yours. In case you didn't find where I reposted the text that went with those photos that describes how to get that cup out on the link that Charlie provided, here it is again.
Originally posted by Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) way back in June of 1999.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.
The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful about which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Originally posted by Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) way back in June of 1999.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.
The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful about which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
David S.,
Beautiful job on your 127. And welcome to our forum.
Kraig, on older versus newer horsepower, the older engines were rated honestly. Lately, manufacturers "stretch the truth" on horsepower ratings. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) publishes small engine rating standards but due to loopholes in the wording, manufacturers can inflate their horsepower claims. As an example, when I worked for Tecumseh (the worst job I ever had), they built an engine called the Large Enduro, which was rated (on the decal) as 18 hp. On the dyno, it actually produced 13 hp on a good day! This was a 3600 rpm, wide open throttle (WOT) figure. Now on a governed engine, it never sees this condition, but more like WOT at 3200 rpm, where the engine is only producing about 11 hp.
Most small engine manufacturers price their engines by the horsepower decal. The bigger the number, the more $$$ they can charge. Engine displacement is always a better comparison figure to go by nowadays.
Beautiful job on your 127. And welcome to our forum.
Kraig, on older versus newer horsepower, the older engines were rated honestly. Lately, manufacturers "stretch the truth" on horsepower ratings. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) publishes small engine rating standards but due to loopholes in the wording, manufacturers can inflate their horsepower claims. As an example, when I worked for Tecumseh (the worst job I ever had), they built an engine called the Large Enduro, which was rated (on the decal) as 18 hp. On the dyno, it actually produced 13 hp on a good day! This was a 3600 rpm, wide open throttle (WOT) figure. Now on a governed engine, it never sees this condition, but more like WOT at 3200 rpm, where the engine is only producing about 11 hp.
Most small engine manufacturers price their engines by the horsepower decal. The bigger the number, the more $$$ they can charge. Engine displacement is always a better comparison figure to go by nowadays.
The side panels came from a 1650 I had this decal was still in pretty good shape. I love dealer decals on garden tractors. I think its a symbol of days that are mostly gone when people bought equipment that they could take pride in! I would love for someone to have a dealer sticker from Palmer's truck and tractor in Washington, Ga. Its my Dad's cousins place. There no longer a Cub Dealer but they started out as one in the 70's.
Dennis Price,
There are two different styles of spindles for the 147, or any narrow front. The top drawing is the older style. The middle picture shows it in more detail. This type uses two tapered wheel bearing style bearings with races. Its messy to work with because of the wheel bearing grease. Its also tougher to repair. It can be a bugger to get the races out. It might be that the bearings might just be loose. You can play around with the spacers to make the bearing tighter, but you might just make it worse.
The other style is shown in the bottom drawing. If that bearing is bad its easy to fix. Just remove the top and bottom nuts and the three carriage bolts and your done. Reverse the process with the replacement.
You can tell which style you have because the top spindle housing is made out of cast iron and the bottom spindle housing is made out of steel.
There are two different styles of spindles for the 147, or any narrow front. The top drawing is the older style. The middle picture shows it in more detail. This type uses two tapered wheel bearing style bearings with races. Its messy to work with because of the wheel bearing grease. Its also tougher to repair. It can be a bugger to get the races out. It might be that the bearings might just be loose. You can play around with the spacers to make the bearing tighter, but you might just make it worse.
The other style is shown in the bottom drawing. If that bearing is bad its easy to fix. Just remove the top and bottom nuts and the three carriage bolts and your done. Reverse the process with the replacement.
You can tell which style you have because the top spindle housing is made out of cast iron and the bottom spindle housing is made out of steel.
Ryan W, Todd H: At the risk of being told that I am nasty mean and ugly, please read the Kohler K-Series Single Cylinder Repair Manual. That balance gear info is in there buried in the text. Yeah, Ya can't just look at the pretty pictures and charts, Ya gotta read it all....
OK: Off the Soap Box.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
OK: Off the Soap Box.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron,
No one ever said you were ugly!
No one ever said you were ugly!
It is quite pleasing to see all the restore jobs going on around here. The detail to your tractors is quite amazing. Being involved with it myself the best thing that happens when the restore takes place is how much we learn about these things! That is priceless.
To those of us that have "workhorses" also sometimes you just need to use them and that is ok too.
Keep the pictures coming because that keeps our hobby going. Now that I am off my soapbox I got to go play golf for my work place. Have a great weekend.
Pops
To those of us that have "workhorses" also sometimes you just need to use them and that is ok too.
Keep the pictures coming because that keeps our hobby going. Now that I am off my soapbox I got to go play golf for my work place. Have a great weekend.
Pops
For those who like Narrow Frames / ZigZags and don't have time to restore their own...
There's a nice looking restored 122 on sleazebay ending today just after 12 Noon EDT. It's #230162868211 and in in Ohio.
Personally I'm into unrestored workhorse Wideframes. This forum is great and I have gleaned so much from reading almost every post this year. The quick response to questions is always appreciated and valuable to keep my guys running strong!
Thanks to all!
Tom H (2!)
There's a nice looking restored 122 on sleazebay ending today just after 12 Noon EDT. It's #230162868211 and in in Ohio.
Personally I'm into unrestored workhorse Wideframes. This forum is great and I have gleaned so much from reading almost every post this year. The quick response to questions is always appreciated and valuable to keep my guys running strong!
Thanks to all!
Tom H (2!)
I left a post the other day about replacing the motor mounts on my 1650 because the engine appears to be "jumping".
I am replacing the mounts, but I want to be sure there is nothing else I should be looking at for this symptom. Like I stated, the engine appears to be jumping/vibrating. The tractor kind of sounds, and feels, like I'm running over a washboard.
If there is anything else I should be looking at for this, other than the mounts, please let me know.
As always, I really appreciate all of your help.
Ed
I am replacing the mounts, but I want to be sure there is nothing else I should be looking at for this symptom. Like I stated, the engine appears to be jumping/vibrating. The tractor kind of sounds, and feels, like I'm running over a washboard.
If there is anything else I should be looking at for this, other than the mounts, please let me know.
As always, I really appreciate all of your help.
Ed
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Myron:
What I have been able to find in the manual is where the break is between old and new style gears, not when Kohler started using the gears. When we talked about this last spring (the topic is still there in the Sandbox), you asked for the Spec number, but never said why. I've read TP-2379 pretty thoroughly and the reference in section eleven just says that "some 241s and 301s" have the gears. What we've been looking for is at what serial number/spec number did Kohler <u>start</u> using the balance gears and also, if someone was determined to keep 'em, was there a benefit to the new gear style over the old type...(assuming that bearings and stub shafts were either replaced or were in good shape). Not sure if there is another reference that has this info or ???
What I have been able to find in the manual is where the break is between old and new style gears, not when Kohler started using the gears. When we talked about this last spring (the topic is still there in the Sandbox), you asked for the Spec number, but never said why. I've read TP-2379 pretty thoroughly and the reference in section eleven just says that "some 241s and 301s" have the gears. What we've been looking for is at what serial number/spec number did Kohler <u>start</u> using the balance gears and also, if someone was determined to keep 'em, was there a benefit to the new gear style over the old type...(assuming that bearings and stub shafts were either replaced or were in good shape). Not sure if there is another reference that has this info or ???
Hmmm...... why would someone post something for sale at a starting price 4 times higher than what this person would get at a scrap yard. And then say if no one buys it, it will be scraped. Sounds a bit odd to me.
