Archive through August 19, 2012

[sblunier]

Kraig,

From last page....Yes and Yes..... Dad's 100 with the big cleaner and my brother running it.

Tom,

Nope, just a ported and polished 10hp, that now has about 1,000,000 hours on it

(It was fresh when I was little).....

Sorry for the late answers, spent most of the weekend with Little Steven, Andy, and his son at the IL Hunter Safety education class.......have to bring the young ones up right/safe!!!.....I remember taking it when I was about their age...

 

[jchamberlin]

Chuck: Good luck. If it doesn't fit, maybe Denny can give you a lead on a source for the proper part. I haven't run a straight pipe, but it is a fairly popular modification. I would be looking for some way to re-inforce it, like the muffler crutch from Kirk Engines that Allen referenced.

All: I don't care what Steve Blunier or Matt Gonitzke says, I think the drive lines of Cub Cadets could be improved. I've got two tractors of different eras and the only thing I've had to repair from actually running them is the pin at the engine end of the drive shaft. The break downs occur more often than they should (I'm replacing pins before a single mowing season is out), and they occur at the oddest times. Without warning, the tractor just stops in the middle of a cut! It doesn't care that it is starting to rain and you only have 5 minutes to go before you finish.

In both cases, it seems there are issues with the link between drive shaft and engine, or maybe how I'm using the machine.

On the 782 (which has the same setup as as the Quiet Line) I started to engage and disengage the electric PTO clutch at part throttle in order to put less stress on the joint/pin. It seems to have helped. I also used a solid pin designed for the 149. But now I find (upon disassembly) that the part that keeps the drive shaft stable (the Flange Assembly) has worn. It's not a terribly expensive part, but I would expect it to stay together more than 50-60 hours!

On the 149, the pin keeps dropping out. I had to go back with a roll pin this time. It might help if there wasn't a spot starting to wear in the slot drive cup's slot; but those drive cups are fairly expensive!

It just seems to me that as well as these parts were designed, there must be a better way. I notice with interest that both IH and MTD engineers kept tweaking the design. The setup on the 1862 seems especially durable and forgiving.

I've seen on this forum where some people have installed U-Joints, but I don't have machine tools like a lathe or a mill in my shop. Am I just doing something wrong here, or are there viable, longer lasting alternatives?

 

[dtanner]

Jeremiah Chamberlin
I have done the drive shaft in my 1512.I used a shaft from an 1863 and I have never had a problem with it . I do plan to do the same mod to my loader 129 , because I keep ripping up the drive shaft and breaking things.There is not that much to do to make the cv joint shaft work in any earlier Cub . I would do change a few more over if the cost of shipping them over here was not as bad as it is. But you guys that can get the parts easily can do that much cheaper and then never have a drive shaft worry again . I think Jim D told me the cv drive shaft is rated over 35 hp and has used them on pulling tractors with more HP than that without any issues.

 

[dtanner]

Lots of info on how I did the cv drive shaft for my 1512 diesel with the much help for Jimmy D . https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22774/183836.html?1263082743 . I made up a plate to replace the drive cup and bolted the cv shaft to that, Now more drive pins .No that I have the CV drive shaft in use for a few years I would change more tractors over to that system. I don`t think they can be broken with the HP engines that Cubs have. I have used it and abused it and it is still perfect. I wish I had another CV shaft for my loader. I would have cats a$$ loader. Later Don T

 

[sblunier]

Jeremiah,

I don't recall having a dog in your driveshaft fight (maybe I do/did), but there are several points to be made here.

1) Make sure you are using the correct pins in the correct places.

2) "Old" machines with parts that have been subjected to the wear of a single or twin cylinder "pulse" under load will not always respond to simple pin replacement.

3) There are tricks for keeping the solid pins in the front joint on 1XX tractors. (use SS hose clamp around coupler)

4)Every part of the Cub Cadets was improved over time...as HP increased and lessons were learned from the units that were out in the field for extended periods of time. Driveshafts are no exception.

5) PTO engagement will have ZERO impact to the drive shaft PROVIDED the tractor isn't moving forward when the PTO is engaged. The drive shaft will be loaded much more severely by rapid hydro movements than by any PTO issues.

6) I have litterally pulled the snot out of these little tractors, and the driveshafts in my machines have given very little trouble. I have broken a pin or 2 over many years of using them, but never at the frequency you are breaking them....there must be an under-lying cause.

7) As good as the later CV joint connections are, I have rebuilt several. They are not "forever" parts and the rubber "guts" will eventually wear.

Please be VERY critical of all of the holes, pins, and parts you are currently using and see if you can spot a weak link. One missed flex disk, a slotted hole, etc. can cause a repeated failure....beyond our suggestive control without "eyes on" of the problem.

I hope you are able to resolve the issue, as 2 pins a year is excessive in any Cub IMHO.

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMIAH - I agree with Steve B. These tractors are all getting 30-40, some close to 50 yrs old. Wear creeps up and causes stress on different parts. My old 129 had notches worn in the drive coupler bolted to the drive cup on the engine so deep the 1/4" dia dowel pin locked into place. I ran that tractor for quite a few years with no problems then had to remove the dowel pin for some reason, to replace a rag joint I think. When I installed the old worn dowel pin the tractor would spit it out every 4-5th mowing. A new dowel pin didn't help. I used the SS hose clamp and the pin would break a hole through it, I made a heavier steel clamp and that finally fixed it.

My GD tractors wear out the very back hole on the driveshaft every 14-15 yrs or so, I'm trying a MWSC pre-hardened 4140 alloy steel shaft now to see how long it lasts. I remember back in about 1979 or 1980 one of the engineers @ FARMALL commenting that ALL GD CC's wore the driveshafts the same way mine do. The 7 & 8 HP GD's never bothered. The hydro's should be realtively immune to the wear since the hydro absorbs the shock, but when a 12,14, or 16 HP Kohler fires there is still going to be shock.

Even BIG equipment suffers from drive line wear. My Uncle bought a brand new 1957 F750 Ford farm truck. In the 1980's my Cousin told me they had to replace the clutch and transmission input shaft because after a quarter of a millon miles they spun the splines off the clutch disc & input shaft. The splined shafts & couplings on full size IH tractors wear out eventually after 7000-8000 hard hours of use.

I've seen guys here install driveshafts on hydros with universal joints. I never pay them any attention. My Buddy buys used JD 317's for less than the cost of the new replacement drive shaft that he has to replace every 3-4 yrs. For what the Hydro CC drive shaft is and how long it lasts, they do an AMAZING job.

Every mechanical part has a useful service life. When they get worn beyond that point and cause undue wear on other parts it's time to replace them!

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - My Dad bought the first CC, a '63 Cub Cadet, an Original, because he had a yard full of full-size IH equipment, a '54 Super M-TA, '51 M, '39 H. There were a few pieces of JD equipment, a corn planter, manure spreader, and some off-brand stuff, but except for the little belt from the engine to the driveshaft the little CC was built very similar to the full size FARMALL's he depended on. Everything else available then had even more belts and cheap pot metal transmissions & final drives. He traded the '63 CC of for a model 70 in '65. The 70 sits in my shop now. I don't think the drive shaft, clutch, or transmission have EVER been worked on except to replace the teaser spring. But it's on engine number SIX and it's tired.

 

[rneubauer]

321AQS rebuilt-while rebuilding a single 14 Kohler recently, I noticed on reassembly that the aluminum bearing plate is drilled and tapped in an additional place for an extra bolt to hold the flywheel cover/shroud on. It is located right below the throttle linkage, and above the timing sight hole. I used a secondary bearing plate as a template and drilled my shroud to accommodate the extra bolt. Wonder why the cubs never used this? Cost down? Interference with something, or was it just that Engine Vibration was so minimal it wasn't deemed necessary?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill J., IH pretty much ruled around these parts back in the 1960's. My cousins who owned and farmed the property adjacent to my parents farm ran all IH. The farmers on the other sides also ran IH. There were a few other brands in use in the area, an Oliver and a Minneapolis-Moline come to mind but mostly IH. It didn't hurt that there were several IH dealerships within a short distance. Carlson Brothers in Houlton, WI which was about 3 miles from the farm, one in East Farmington, WI about 15-20 miles north and another one in Downing, WI just into the next county to the east. There is still a dealer in Downing but I believe it's mostly just a tractor bone yard now. Carlson Brothers is still in business at other locations but they long ago closed the dealership in Houlton. And the one in East Farmington closed in the 80's.

Joshua, my #2 125 is my main use tractor. It gets used for mowing, snow removal and hauling in firewood. Yes it was a very good deal. Saturday Night Fever to Jeremiah Johnson.

Seats can be reupholstered: Here's a before and after photo of one I had reupholstered for my #1 125 refurb. I had this done back in 2003 and it's still never been used. I'm waiting to get the 125 refurbished. A seam had to be added to properly fit the material but I actually like it better than the original one piece style.

 

[jchamberlin]

Steve Blunier: You may not have a dog in my fight with the IH drive shaft design, buy I'm glad you responded. I agree, something doesn't seem right. The 782 failure has me the most mystified since all the parts from the engine to the transmission were installed new 60 hours ago. One of the flex disks at the front has a bigger center hole than the other one, so I'm replacing it along with the Flange Assembly. I'll also try to be more careful about engaging the PTO while moving which I often do. I'm also guilty of jerky hydro movements because I'm used to operating the tractor with my foot, which I've realized recently doesn't make for the smoothest operation. I had no idea that my jerky ride was stressing the driveshaft.

Denny: Thank you, as always for the response. I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who has had the problem with the pin dropping out of the 149 coupler. I'm also relieved to learn that there is a way to resolve the the issue short of buying a new drive cup and driveshaft. (I'm still out some pins, though.

)

Donald Tanner: Thanks for posting about your repairs, I intend to check them out. I already have one of the CV joints from an 1862 (thanks to the fellow from whom I bought the M18 motor). It certainly seems heavy duty to me, the drive shaft itself is a lot thicker, the joints have rubber in them, and you can grease each end through a zerk! I'm certainly going to price the upgrade to see where it comes out and balance that with my frustration with the current setup, especially on the 82 Series tractor with the 18 HP motor.

All: Thank you for tolerating and responding to my expression of frustraton. I have certainly poured a lot of money and effort into fixing up my two Cubs the last few years, but it is downright embarrassing when you're brought to a stand-still by a stinking little 1/4" thick pin that you must remove the gas tank to replace. It certainly gives the critics the ammunition they're looking for to knock "your junky old tractor."

 

[rneubauer]

Anyone have any "known" fixes for stripped threads in a #30 carb for attaching the aircleaner housing? I thought about purchasing some extra long 10-32 bolts, cutting the heads off and running them in there with "loctite green sleeve retainer" leaving a good 1/2" extend out past end of carb. Then I could attach air cleaner with locknuts onto the studs.

Drawbacks? Issues? There seems to be about 2-3 decent threads in the back of the carb after I chased it with a tap.

 

[digger]

Rob N.
One word!

Helicoil

 

[digger]

Jeremiah C.
I had to look at the author of that whining post, I thought Brian W. was posting again!

 

[mroseman]

ok...sorry for the repost....but this is starting to cost me a bundle. My model 108 starter went so i bought a new one online and it fit right in and spins counter clockwise. The nut that holds the pulley on keeps backing off and the pulley then wobbles and ruins the key and the hole it sits in. I got a new pulley and it did the same thing. So i have ordered a 3rd pulley but before i put it on i hope someone can tell me why the nut keeps backing off.Last time i had it put on with an impact gun and lock washer and lock tight to no avail. Any help is appreciated and thanx for the reply from Alan S.

 

[hydroharry]

Rob N - I've run into that carb issue before myself. I don't see an issue converting to studs except maybe your idea of using lock nuts. Installing the "lock" nut may require enough torque to break the stud loose or crack the carb diecast housing. I think I'd just use lock washers and nuts. I've got a #30 (maybe for sale soon) converted that way and I'll attach a couple pics, not the best but you can get the idea. I suppose you have to worry a little about the nuts and washers coming loose and being sucked into the carb, but heck, the original screws would have the same issue.

 

[ralbert]

I opened the 8hp today thinking I was going to replace the front bearing....got it apart...don't know now....might be end play from the cam making that racket... it definitely has movement....one question...I know this might be unanswerable, but when I grab the dip tube from the rod...how much movement should there be..? I'm thinking with the end play and being able to move the dip stick around some, that might be the problem....any help would be appreciated....hate to take this all apart and take to a machine shop if I don't have to....

Thanks for any info.

 

[digger]

Mark R.
Are you absolutely sure that the new S/G doesn't have a tapered shaft? Just a thought.

 

[mfrade]

Mark R., check for ANY movement between the pulley and the key. If it moves at all - it will cause the nut to loosen. You may need a new woodruff key to go with that new pulley...

 

[digger]

Well after 2 years and 2 months, the Viking is home, LOL
Thanks to Tedd I., Nick G..

And I picked this little guy up at a garage sale on the way home Saturday.

 

[drglinski]

Did some work on my carb today. I think I may have solved the hunting issue, thanks to the help of you guys. Thanks a lot.

Charlie- your 86 series pedal tractor is awesome. I've had one since I was about 5 and restored it about 3 winters ago.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/completedoutside4.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a101/drglinski/completedoutside3.jpg