Matt, if you're out there. Anyone else if not. I have been fooling with the 128 clutch problem and found about 1/16" end play in the drive shaft and traced it all the way to the rearend. I'm just curious if this much play along with all the other play from its age would effect the clutch disengaging. It does have a new throwout arm along with several other new parts in the clutch assembly. Going crazy here. Wayne
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Archive through August 17, 2009
- Thread starter tdaugherty
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Some time ago I noticed a procedure to up grade the front axles steering connection to make it much stronger, I have looked in the vault but unable to locate the drwaing and how to fix it on my 122 does anyone know where I might find that article Thanks for all help ahead of time. Ron
mfrade
Well-known member
Rick Beem, could I / We see another picture of those tires? I'm wondering how those would be in the snow?
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
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- Gerry Ide
Ron: Are you speaking of the drag link and tie rod ends? If so, at least one of our sponsors has the heim joint w/stud on their web site catalog. These are a great improvement over the ball and socket originals.. Other than that, not sure what you mean by "front axle steering connection", maybe a picture would help...
Rick Beem
I for one appreciate the pictures/info. I have this same job to do in the near future after my repower of my 1450 is complete (which is getting very close by the way) The oilite bushing is a great idea, I wonder how a small bearing would work in this application ? I have never dug into one, so would it need to be a thrust type bearing, or a ball bearing for the type of load presented ? Was the parts that clean on your steering, or is that a load of work into cleaning all that up, also a drill will really help clean those center holes out with a cheapo gun cleaning kit using the correct sized brass brush. I use a drill combined with brass brush often while working on older stuff, and have it sitting on the 1450 seat right now, it's great for cleaning out threaded holes etc, then go back with some anti seize, anti seize is also a great lube for bushings etc.
Someone cross threaded or used the wrong nut on my 1450 steering wheel nut, so now I will have to chase the threads or conjure up a die to chase them out with, I hope someone has the correct thread size/pitch in the future when I start on that. I also noticed a good bit of movement on the cross member on the frame when turning the steering wheel, I guess this will also need beefed up some, and while I'm at it I plan to check/replace the pivot bushing for the front axle, new ball joints etc..
I for one appreciate the pictures/info. I have this same job to do in the near future after my repower of my 1450 is complete (which is getting very close by the way) The oilite bushing is a great idea, I wonder how a small bearing would work in this application ? I have never dug into one, so would it need to be a thrust type bearing, or a ball bearing for the type of load presented ? Was the parts that clean on your steering, or is that a load of work into cleaning all that up, also a drill will really help clean those center holes out with a cheapo gun cleaning kit using the correct sized brass brush. I use a drill combined with brass brush often while working on older stuff, and have it sitting on the 1450 seat right now, it's great for cleaning out threaded holes etc, then go back with some anti seize, anti seize is also a great lube for bushings etc.
Someone cross threaded or used the wrong nut on my 1450 steering wheel nut, so now I will have to chase the threads or conjure up a die to chase them out with, I hope someone has the correct thread size/pitch in the future when I start on that. I also noticed a good bit of movement on the cross member on the frame when turning the steering wheel, I guess this will also need beefed up some, and while I'm at it I plan to check/replace the pivot bushing for the front axle, new ball joints etc..
Clint,
Those parts were not that clean coming out by any means. I ruined at least two shirts flinging grease balls from wire brushes while cleaning up.I just use old gun cleaning brushes in the bores.
I think the oilite bushings are a darn good bang for the buck. Any gains from another bearing type would be minimal. Also, very little aluminum is removed when installing them so the inegrity of the housing is not comprimised. The thrust bearings (as pointed out in the FAQ) work great as they should taking up the "thrust" load. The side load and wear of the case is almost always ignored...or the housing trashed.
Worth noting also. If you look in the pictures, there is some brass and steel shim stock with 3/4" holes punched in them. I use the steel shim to install the front axle (with a new pin) leaving only about .003/.005" clearance. It usually takes from .020-.050" shim to get things right. I'm experimenting with the brass shim on the bottom side of the spindles to see if they'll help with friction.
Pic for Mike F.
I have Zero experience with these tires in snow or dirt. They roll across the garage floor great! They also do a great job of draining your wallet! With the tires, all new bearings etc. I'm pretty sure this job set me back about $250. But as they say....good for another 40 years.
Those parts were not that clean coming out by any means. I ruined at least two shirts flinging grease balls from wire brushes while cleaning up.I just use old gun cleaning brushes in the bores.
I think the oilite bushings are a darn good bang for the buck. Any gains from another bearing type would be minimal. Also, very little aluminum is removed when installing them so the inegrity of the housing is not comprimised. The thrust bearings (as pointed out in the FAQ) work great as they should taking up the "thrust" load. The side load and wear of the case is almost always ignored...or the housing trashed.
Worth noting also. If you look in the pictures, there is some brass and steel shim stock with 3/4" holes punched in them. I use the steel shim to install the front axle (with a new pin) leaving only about .003/.005" clearance. It usually takes from .020-.050" shim to get things right. I'm experimenting with the brass shim on the bottom side of the spindles to see if they'll help with friction.
Pic for Mike F.
I have Zero experience with these tires in snow or dirt. They roll across the garage floor great! They also do a great job of draining your wallet! With the tires, all new bearings etc. I'm pretty sure this job set me back about $250. But as they say....good for another 40 years.
J
jott
Guest
guys talking about the CC 124's~ i bought my CC 124 last summer and used it this last winter for snowblowing and then snowplowing. I worked great w/o any complaints until spring came. Then i had to put new rings in it, and now it awaits a carb rebuild. My CC 147 and recently new CC 100 have been on overtime this summer. I hate that i have not gotten the carb rebuilt yet because it was/is a real workhorse.
