Archive through August 13, 2008
- Thread starter ckrill
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dustin there are many schools of thought around here for setting timing. If your 128 is in running condition, you can do what I did.
1. Make sure ignition is off and/or remove batt cable.
2. Remove the points cover, lead and point assy.
3. Install new point set and lead.
4. Turn the engine over by hand until the points pushrod is the farthest away from the block(max point gap)
5. Set point gap to .020 (like Kraig posted) then tighten points down
6.Replace point cover and batt cable if removed
7. Fire that cub up!
Hope this helps
1. Make sure ignition is off and/or remove batt cable.
2. Remove the points cover, lead and point assy.
3. Install new point set and lead.
4. Turn the engine over by hand until the points pushrod is the farthest away from the block(max point gap)
5. Set point gap to .020 (like Kraig posted) then tighten points down
6.Replace point cover and batt cable if removed
7. Fire that cub up!
Hope this helps
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- Allen Schumacher
Kraig, those 'new' Ziploc bags, they the ones with the porthole in the side for a vacuum that squishes them down so you can stack them up in a corner of a barn?
Paul, nice find on that "O". I've always wanted a hand start one, I think they are neat.
Charles, I have a IH Cub muffler on my 71 like you talked about. Just simple plumbing pipe right off of the factory elbow. Two problems, 1. I have looked all over for exhaust clamp to put on it and no one carries them in that size. 2. You wind up getting the brunt of the exhaust fumes with it on there. Looks great though.
Bruce, thanks I'm pretty happy with it so far. I've done alot worse for more money. Can't wait to get a good head on it and getting it running.
I took a closer look at the hydro release mech and I think that metal flap is broken off at one end and it doesn't hold on like it should anymore, anyone have one in a parts pile?
Charles, I have a IH Cub muffler on my 71 like you talked about. Just simple plumbing pipe right off of the factory elbow. Two problems, 1. I have looked all over for exhaust clamp to put on it and no one carries them in that size. 2. You wind up getting the brunt of the exhaust fumes with it on there. Looks great though.
Bruce, thanks I'm pretty happy with it so far. I've done alot worse for more money. Can't wait to get a good head on it and getting it running.
I took a closer look at the hydro release mech and I think that metal flap is broken off at one end and it doesn't hold on like it should anymore, anyone have one in a parts pile?
well all you engine guys here is the problem I have here. a 14 hp from my 149. Bought a master rebuild kit for it and found that the Cylinder skirt is broken by what looks like a rod that had let go and struck it breaking the piece out. This 14 has gone egg shaped and has to be bored to .030 to repair it and have a new rod to install. I don`t know if i should rebuild this 14 by boring that large and i want to ask if i should sleve it and start from scratch.I don`t know where to get the sleves for a standerd bore. help later and thanks Don T
jsilliman3
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- Jim Silliman III
My father-in-law gave me a '64 Cub Cadet 100 a couple/few years ago and I am finally getting around to changing the creeper drive oil. I tried to loosen the drain plug (very hard to get to) but ended up just rounding out the square end as it wouldn't budge. Any suggestions as to what size and where to get a replacement drain plug? Any suggestions as to how to get the current plug out?
jkoenig
In Remembrance 2023
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- Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Don T,
Whatever you choose, I think you should grind the broken area smooth and radius the edges as much as possible. Something about nodes and hot spots I think...Mebbe someone else will fill in the whys. Good luck and keep us posted.
Whatever you choose, I think you should grind the broken area smooth and radius the edges as much as possible. Something about nodes and hot spots I think...Mebbe someone else will fill in the whys. Good luck and keep us posted.
Last Saturday a friend asked me to come get 2 or 3 cubs that he is tired of looking at, they have been sitting for a while and none of them are running. So tonight I picked them up.
2 or 3 grew into 4! Amazing! It's a good thing he gave me some gas money because 3 of them are 125s....
One is a 123 that his dad or grandpa bought brand new, I may have to clean this one up.
This 125 has a beautiful hyraulic lift, well maybe not, they welded another pulley to the starter generator to run the pump. The kid who drove the skid steer helping me load these bumped and broke an elbow fitting, see the red squiggly line and circles.
I got three 42" decks, one 38" deck, a set of wheel weights, and one has a spring assist. All 12hps turn over by hand.
2 or 3 grew into 4! Amazing! It's a good thing he gave me some gas money because 3 of them are 125s....
One is a 123 that his dad or grandpa bought brand new, I may have to clean this one up.
This 125 has a beautiful hyraulic lift, well maybe not, they welded another pulley to the starter generator to run the pump. The kid who drove the skid steer helping me load these bumped and broke an elbow fitting, see the red squiggly line and circles.
I got three 42" decks, one 38" deck, a set of wheel weights, and one has a spring assist. All 12hps turn over by hand.
balbrecht
Well-known member
Hey Vince, is your salvage yard going to be open on Saturday morning?
Don T
I overhauled my 126 and 147,one is .020 over and the other is .030. Both are standard oversizes for those engines. Both run great,and I doubt if most people will ever use their Cub Cadets enough that they will ever need another rebuild. Make sure you "mike" the crankshaft to see of it needs turned,both of mine needed turned. There is only one standard undersize, .010. I left the balance gears out of both of them. There is a little more vibration at idle, but at operating speed,especially with the snowblower or mower deck engaged,I can't tell any difference.Check the valve lifters for wear where they contact the valve stems,a machine shop can precision resurface them if needed. I agree on dressing the damaged area,which should take care of that issue. I'm a retired mechanic and think the Kohler engine manual is well written and think a hard copy is nice for those "quick check" situations. Have fun.
I overhauled my 126 and 147,one is .020 over and the other is .030. Both are standard oversizes for those engines. Both run great,and I doubt if most people will ever use their Cub Cadets enough that they will ever need another rebuild. Make sure you "mike" the crankshaft to see of it needs turned,both of mine needed turned. There is only one standard undersize, .010. I left the balance gears out of both of them. There is a little more vibration at idle, but at operating speed,especially with the snowblower or mower deck engaged,I can't tell any difference.Check the valve lifters for wear where they contact the valve stems,a machine shop can precision resurface them if needed. I agree on dressing the damaged area,which should take care of that issue. I'm a retired mechanic and think the Kohler engine manual is well written and think a hard copy is nice for those "quick check" situations. Have fun.
Jim, you could try cutting a slot across the head with a small grinder and cutting disk and use a flat screw driver to get it out. Also get some PB blaster and soak the plug for awhile with it first. If thats not enough using a torch to heat it for a 10 seconds and letting it cool for 30 or so should do the trick. Small taps with a hammer help the process along as well. Good luck.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Vince-
Nice haul there.. It's amazing what those 125's are worth being that they are "the pinnacle" of all <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets according to some forum members. I hope the guy didn't have to give you too much money to haul them away...
Paul-
I was just having a bit of fun pulling your leg for a moment.
Kraig-
(in regards to your "969 comment"...)
Nice haul there.. It's amazing what those 125's are worth being that they are "the pinnacle" of all <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets according to some forum members. I hope the guy didn't have to give you too much money to haul them away...
Paul-
I was just having a bit of fun pulling your leg for a moment.
Kraig-
(in regards to your "969 comment"...)
}
Art,
I forgot to lock them 125s up last night, I was scared they would be gone this morning however they are still on the trailer....
Brian, the salvage yard will be open late Saturday morning(10:30ish) and into the afternoon, . (I am either sleeping in, guarding these 125s
, or going to a football scrimmage). I drove by your place last night around 6:30 but I did not see any activity so I did not stop.
I forgot to lock them 125s up last night, I was scared they would be gone this morning however they are still on the trailer....
Brian, the salvage yard will be open late Saturday morning(10:30ish) and into the afternoon, . (I am either sleeping in, guarding these 125s
Vince, what do you have planned for the 125s?
Did you ask if he had the windbreaker cab for the 123, I see it has the rear brackets for one.
Art, what?
Art, what?
Pic of my 582
Pic of my 1200 with blade, as I needed to push some dirt around the yard
It rained one day last week, and I got the roller out.
The roller is basically 2 foot in diameter by 4 foot wide, which holds @94gallons. Water weights 8.3lbs/gallon, and the steel weights something so I believe it is safe to say fully loaded the roller weights 800lbs. Of course the 1200 has not issue pulling it!
Pic of my 1200 with blade, as I needed to push some dirt around the yard
It rained one day last week, and I got the roller out.
The roller is basically 2 foot in diameter by 4 foot wide, which holds @94gallons. Water weights 8.3lbs/gallon, and the steel weights something so I believe it is safe to say fully loaded the roller weights 800lbs. Of course the 1200 has not issue pulling it!
