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Archive through August 12, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Don - old picture - I'm currently in the 7th week of a three week bathroom remodel - not much time for Cubbin' ...but once this is out of the way, and some of the other neglected duties get caught up. the 149 rebuild is next..
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Oh - that's my '54 F100 ... that might get some attention this year, too. Chopped, Volare front end, Pontiac engine.. (oops - off topic)
 
Not sure if it is correct to post this but someone with some available funds may want to check out Craigslist in New Hampshire. Six tractor and parts in one lot.
 
I goilng to install a set of headlights and tail lights on my 1250 Nightmare. Elsewhere on this site, the wiring diagram found in the service manual for the 1x8-9 and Quietline series shows a disconnect for the headlight and tail light wire, presumably for easy removal of the hood or rear fender assembly.

What hardware would be recommended for installing that disconnect? The parts look-up feature does not work as of this writing. Is there a certain type of disconnect that I should use? What was used at the factory?
 
Brian,

A normal spade connector will work fine. You can usually pick these up at any auto parts store.
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Gerry,

I want that truck!
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Charlie - I didn't see anyone respond yet to your question about Original units exported to Finland. I suppose the answer may be deep in the archives of the Wis State Historical Society, or even lost. I mentioned these archives a few days back. Getting details on the exact country exported to is probably nearly impossible, since I suspect there would be some type of distribution network covering several countries, ie. they might have shipped a whole slug to England first, then several to Norway, of which a few were forwarded to Finland. Don't know for any certainty - just a gol drn guess.
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Jeremiah - hey, ya still learn something about these units every day (well almost every day). It's great to hear your muffler dimensions are the same as mine. I don't recall the NELSON name and/or number stamp on mine. In fact, as I recall mine came with a tag wire wrapped to it, with a part number that I could never cross reference in the Parts Book. I do know my muffler is the same basic size as the original 169 muffler, diameter and basic body (had a chance to compare to Jim Chabot's 169 back in the day I was restoring mine). The curved inlet is of course different from the original, and the length of the outlet pipe is different. The original 169 had a stubby outlet pipe. Never quite understood why they had that short outlet allowing the exhaust to go right back over the S/G and/or engine itself. So, now that we know this it would seem my heat shield (or baffle) should also be the same as what you need except for the head bolt hole placement, and maybe, just maybe, they might be the same locations. I also hear ya on the neutral reference point, but it's probably gonna be hard. Maybe we could use the S/G since it's close. I also have to let you know that my shield is not original, and could very well be a fabricated unit. The original shield was missing when I picked up my unit, and thru a Forum member connection at the time I obtained mine. It seemed to compare exactly to Jim Chabot's, and mounted on my engine and attached to the muffler, so I never pursued anything further on it. The further good news with this information is for the other guys out there that have 169's and need a replacement muffler. Seems to me all they need do, is get the new muffler from the Sponsor that has them, and replace the original S shapped exhaust outlet nipple that came on the K341 with that 1" pipe nipple you located, and then they'll be ready to install the new muffler and reuse the original heat shield (baffle). I'll work on more pics and dimension details this weekend. Nice to know we think we have a solution for others with 169's (might be what Charlie is implying in his muffler description when he mentions it fits "a few others with a little work".

Wayne - did I miss it? Did you figure out the deck out of level problem, when it's raised? It's had me stumped for years.
 
Harry: If I can figure out the metal bends, and I have the muffler mounting hole from you, I can locate stud mounting locations well enough from my own engine and/or cylinder head tin. (The tin for the Low Boss Head extends out to cover all the cylinder bolt heads.) I still think the "neutral reference point" needs to be related to the frame, not the engine, since they are so different --or are the blocks the same dimension? Or heck, just measure the distance between the bends and the distance from the muffler mounting hole to either bend, and I'll figure it out from there. I would like to know the over-all dimensions of your piece, again, as a reference.
 
Brian - I got a whole separate post for your lights wiring info.
You're exactly right about the wire connectors allowing for removal of the rear fender assembly, but in the front it's the lower grill housing and there is also a connector at the upper grill housing. Maybe Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos, has some pics where you can see the lighting harness connectors and actual wires. They are not just spade connectors, they are automotive type with a sort of push and snap together connection.

ALSO, you need to have a good hard look at your existing wiring harness. I seem to recall that the original harness came with at least part of the lighting wires. IH used these nice slide on connectors that would hold the wires right up against the underside of the upper frame channels. Have a look from the rear of your tractor right down the underside of the upper frame channel to see if you can see any wires already in place. You should see your battery wires routed there and you might see a wire connector looped over, which would be the single hot wire used for the rear lights. For the front, IH ran the harness down along the under side of the dash pedestal, and routed it under the upper frame channel and towards the front for the engine. If you follow this harness to the front you may just find a wire connector looped in a holder on the under side of the upper frame channel, roughly in the area between where the 1st bolt hole is that holds the lower grill housing to the frame, and approx the area even with one of the starter mounting bolts (it's hard to describe this area of the frame channel). You'll have to look really hard since IH had a good install method, and as I recall they had these clip connectors tack welded to the frame that hold the harness really close and tight to the underside of the frame.

I wish you good luck with your wiring. It's easy to do an installation that works and has all the wires exposed but that’s prone to problems. You really don’t want to hear this but if you have to install a complete harness all the way from the switch, it’s a whole lot easier to install the harness correctly when the engine is removed. Without the engine removed, even if you get the original harness wires it's hard to the point of a big pain to get it installed the same as the factory method, which is really the best to avoid problems. And when you do the rear wires IH did route the wire to each light thru a little gap where the vertical fender stiffener meet the horizontal tire cover part of the fender. They had these neat little clips that slip onto the metal and hold the wire nice and snug against the insides of the fenders. That way the wires don't droop and get caught by a tire or tire chain, and don't droop and look unsightly. I don't recall exactly how the rear lighting wire harness is set up but seem to recall it's a single wire running on the underside of the frame channel to the area just past the rear part of the battery box, then the harness has a nice Y splitter into 2 wires, 1 to each side. IH used those nice little clips I mentioned to hold the wires nice and snug up against the inside of the fenders.

Sure hope Kraig can come up with some pics. If you could look at someone elses Quiet Line with lights it would be worth about 1,000 pics.

(by the way, I see Charlie has the Y'd pigtail harness for the rear lights which must be the same for the 1x8/9 and Quiet Line. He only shows the front light harness directly at the lights themselves and shows it's for the 1x8/9 but I believe it's really the same for the Quiet Line. If you have the lighting wires in your original harness you will still need a wire with the correct connectors that runs from the frame up to the upper grill).

(Under Edit - Jeremiah you're up late
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Harry-

All I found was one of the eye bolts loose a bit and not quite matching the other in height. I believe that every little bit of wear, bends, and hole slop as Kraig mentioned really make a difference in the way decks respond. I ended up removing everything and, after welding up wear spots and cleaning/lubing pulleys and brakets installing an undercarriage for the square end decks. I have tried a 42" but a bolt from the mounting bracket of the right gauge wheel rubs the tire so today I plan on installing the 48" deck. It makes more sense to get as much cut as possible anyway and the 14 horses should handle that size deck just fine.
 
Denny,

"I need to get a pair of 4.00X8 3-rib frts for the 72, but I'm kinda "Fussy" about which brand I get, they have to "Look Right", "

AMEN!!!!! I looked long and hard to get the right ones for the 2 bottom plow........they needed to look "right", and if I couldn't get the implement tire I really wanted ina 4x8, then I was going to get a tri-rib that looked "right"........too much hokey stuff out there in that market......."right" needs a wider center rib with the correct shape in the outer ribs.
 

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