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Archive through August 12, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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tmcall

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Feb 1, 2007
Messages
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Tony Mcall
Hi You All!
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HEY Tony!
Glad to see ya made it back to the land of the living!
How the heck are ya and whatcha been up to?
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Afternoon all; I have been having an issue with my 1450 tractor. Engine starts fine and runs good under load, but after a few minutes when things warm up, it looses power and starts smoking a bit. I have cleaned out the carb and put in a repair kit. I pulled the head and other than some carbon buildup, the head and gasket looked ok. My next step is to check the points. Any other suggetsions of where to look? Thanks.
 
Pat K: I have had Kohlers that would do that when the coil was going bad. Ok cold but as soon as you get it warm the coil begins to fail, the engine loses power and eventually will die.. I suspect the smoking is just a side effect... Check it out and see if a good coil solves the problem..

Myron B
CCSupply
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Here we go back to this oil plug thing again... I was out of town for a couple of days. Wes H. hit it on the head. My 128 and 1450 have the same type of oil plug, with STRAIGHT threads, hex head, and a shoulder with a gasket. The shoulder seats on the bottom of the pan and the gasket seals the plug. When you loosen it, it's NOT a gradual loosening like when you loosen something with pipe threads. You "break" the torque on it and it comes out easily. That's my story and I'm sticking to it... I may be young but I'm not stupid either....
 
Myron; Thanks for the tip on the coil. My brother was just over and said the same thing. I will let yo know how it works out. Thanks
 
Pat - The smoking may be from unburnt gases/oil from the developing weak spark.

I may be old but Matt is young ;)
 
Matt G:

I stand corrected.....!!

I done a bit of research and did discover there was a change in Drain Plugs.

I was basing my thoughts on the fact that all my K series Kohlers have the NPT plug, to include my 1450. I went to the garage and looked over what I could see of it in the tractor. Maybe someone swapped the pan before I got it, or made a modification. Never paid any attention to it. Next time I pull the motor, I'll take a closer look.

None the less, you are correct. There is a difference in drain plugs and it appears the conversion was made with the 1x8/9 series.
 
I just noticed Sat eve, that my 128 with a K301 has a noticable noise at base idle. I have narrowed the noise down to the front of the engine/Pto area. I removed the Pto clutch assy, but noise is still there. The clutch drive hub seems to be tight on the crank, is it possible that the base idle is too low and the engine is fighting to stay running. Noise goes away off of idle. Dad said noise has been there since overhaul 5 years ago with very few hours. Noise sounds like what I hear at work when a harmonic balancer is loose. My work? I am an ASE certified Master Tech at an independant repair shop.
 
Todd H.-

Do you remember if the balance gears were removed or at least had the bearings replaced when the engine was overhauled? A few people have said they'll start to make noise before they break. If the starter pulley is on tight and you are sure it's coming from the front, I'd say the balance gears are a possibility, they are located at the PTO end inside if I remember right. It could also be a loose piece of tinwork on the motor that only rattles at certain rpms. Sometimes the drive clutch will rattle too. Anyway, those are all things I have experienced on various tractors.
 
I really liked Don B's combo of the Scout and Original. Looks cool Don. I got motivated today and washed some stuff in the shade. This is my pair. 1975 1000 and my 1974 IH pickup.
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Thanks Matt,
I was not present when Dad rebuilt the engine. Also too late to ring him tonight. I realize that mine is a solid mount, and is going to make some noises. I have come to accept that as the nature of the beast. I think I will add an engine overhaul to my winter resto list, no biggie though. These motors seem very user freindly. That old tractor starts better than my truck!!!
 
hello fellow IH Cub Cadet owners. i recently picked up this little machine and am planning on fixing it up. i have unstuck the clutch, made it possible to shift into first and reverse again (stiff shifting mechanism.), replaced the front tires, sorted out the electrical, put a new battery in her and sanded the hydraulic rams before cycling them.

it has a 10 hp kohler, homemade front end loader, and almost zero traction at the left rear tire.
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most of the paint is gone and the machine as a whole has been hack modified to hell and back again.

the serial number is 50551 so i know its a 1963 orginal. i was wondering what else you guys could tell me about it from some pictures that i can try to upload. any thoughts and comments of wisdom will be very appreciated. also any questions about it?

oops. i need to figure out how to shrink pictures. i will post them next chance i get or take new pics at a lower resolution.(funny thing is, i never thought i would have a problem like this with a camera cell phone)
 
Todd

Be sure the PTO driver is tight on the crank shaft. They have a tendency to get loose because they are a slip fit..
 
Don B., nice Cub and <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Scout!
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Glen E., nice Cub and <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> pickup!
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Fellas,

REGARDING BALANCE GEARS:
Does anyone know if Kohler ever came out with any technical bulletin or such letter regarding faulty balance gears or that they recommended that they be removed from certain serial number engines?

What purpose did they serve in the first place?

Did all Kohler engines come with them?

Now I've got a CC129 equipped with a Kohler K301AS and is serial # C062929 and a CC127 equipped with a Kohler K301A and is serial # E0043256. I am NOT a trained mechanic, but the 127 engine seems to have a knock more so than the 129 to me, but these single cylinder engines seem to always pound away. Currently, both engines run fine and make adequate power. But all this talk about exploding balance gears has got me concerned that maybe I should plan to tear them both down before they blow up and cause major engine destruction?

Thanks in advance for any advice or pointers with this matter,
Ryan W
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TODD H. - Another source of knocking in Kohler's is if the end play on the cam shaft is too loose. I think the spec. is .005"/.015" or something like that and You want it on the tight side. The shims the balance gears use also work for the cam, same .500" dia ID & 3/4"-1" OD and You can measure thickness with a mic. The cam drives with helical gears so it slides forward & back as the load/speed fluctuates.
KRAIG - Thank's for the Paint code cross reference....I needed that! Bad news is the 70 is supposed to be 901 White and the 72 is supposed to be 902 white and frankly, One's going to be wrong! With the beating the hoods take while trimming when mowing I'm using Base Coat/Clear Coat on both of them. Quart should easily do them both. We did some painting on Son's red pickup last winter and with a quart of color and the reducers & hardener We could have repainted half the truck!

RYAN - Not sure about a TSB from Kohler, but several years ago when I rebuilt My K301 in the 129 I did call Kohler and talk to an engineer and while He wouldn't recommend taking the balance gears out He did say there was nothing else different in the engines with balance gears than without them so I took them out. I had My K321 balanced when I rebuilt it last winter and that engine is one of the smoothest running Kohler's I've ever been around....and It's a BEAST. Son was mowing 4+ foot tall weeds Saturday night....I won't say He was in 3rd gear or anything because that causes problems but the discharge chute was laying a windrow from a 38" swath that could have fed into a hay baler! The 982 had to creep along but He ran 1st gear without slipping the clutch and ran away and hid from Me.
 
Cub Cadet Original - Clutch problem?

I have a 1962 Cub Cadet original. When I apply the clutch I have a couple of bolt heads hitting the bar that is used to raise the mower assembly. (See the attached picture). This is a recent problem & I'm not sure what has caused this to happen. Any ideas?

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Mike, check to make sure that your frame is not breaking. Originals have a habit of breaking where the frame bolts to the transmission, they crack around the flange. Perhaps yours is just starting to break and is sagging slightly.
 
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