There ya go Kentuck!
I fixed it back to 6300 for ya.
I fixed it back to 6300 for ya.
-
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Archive through August 07, 2011
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Charlie - Post more pics of the Big Boy snow removal equipment in action !
I'm sweating bad out here tryin to get the cable modem working on Wniderz 7
I told Kathy last night about you posting your little story of snow removal and I told her it cooled me off a little ... wish I could give you the same stupid stare she gave me
Oh yeah on the counter
When I look through the archives I see names that look new to me or haven't seen in a long time so I check their profile ... bunch of dead beats !
Some haven't signed in for as long as 6 years !!
I'm sweating bad out here tryin to get the cable modem working on Wniderz 7
I told Kathy last night about you posting your little story of snow removal and I told her it cooled me off a little ... wish I could give you the same stupid stare she gave me
Oh yeah on the counter
When I look through the archives I see names that look new to me or haven't seen in a long time so I check their profile ... bunch of dead beats !
Some haven't signed in for as long as 6 years !!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
I just can't resist this. Scroll down to Charlie's post @ 10:48 p.m. When Charlie still lived in Spring Valley, Minnesota. The second one from the top.
Dennis, Thanks for the link. If I decide to follow though on this. I'll give them a call.
Kendal, I thought the same thing too, either way it will cost some $$$$. I just gotta decide what I want to do.
Maybe I'll sell it. I don't really need one at this time anyway. But then again, it would make a good winter project........
Kendal, I thought the same thing too, either way it will cost some $$$$. I just gotta decide what I want to do.
Maybe I'll sell it. I don't really need one at this time anyway. But then again, it would make a good winter project........
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Good Morning, All.
Norm B. We;ve been blessed in the past week with some showers. The grass is still pretty much brown in a lot of spots. It is raining a little right now. We'll keep your area in thoughts and prayers for some much needed rain. Perhaps this will help persuade some rain to come your way.... Thunder and Lightning
Everyone have a beautiful and safe day.
Norm B. We;ve been blessed in the past week with some showers. The grass is still pretty much brown in a lot of spots. It is raining a little right now. We'll keep your area in thoughts and prayers for some much needed rain. Perhaps this will help persuade some rain to come your way.... Thunder and Lightning
Everyone have a beautiful and safe day.
Good Morning All,
I have a real nice Cub-Cadet 128. It has all the extra's including the creeper. My problem is, I put a new clutch in this tractor, now it sticks in gear and won't shift while the tractor is running. Does anyone have any idea's what I could do to correct this problem?
I have a real nice Cub-Cadet 128. It has all the extra's including the creeper. My problem is, I put a new clutch in this tractor, now it sticks in gear and won't shift while the tractor is running. Does anyone have any idea's what I could do to correct this problem?
DONALD R. - Your clutch is not disengaging completely. If you put a new friction disc in they tend to do that for a while until they get bedded in properly. I'd adjust the clutch slightly, turn the adjusting nuts a half to a whole turn IN so you can pull the pressure plates further apart, but you don't want your clutch lever engaging the throw-out bearing all the time. And make sure your pedal return spring holds the pedal back all the way. And you should use the spring on the clutch rod that pushs the clutch lever forward. And a tight fit on the lever pivot pin is a good idea.
Eventually, the friction plate will bed in and you can adjust your clutch per the manual and the adjustment should stay for a L-O-N-G time and disengage cleanly.
Eventually, the friction plate will bed in and you can adjust your clutch per the manual and the adjustment should stay for a L-O-N-G time and disengage cleanly.
Donald R, The first time I did a clutch I managed to mess the shaft with a vise and hammer taking it apart. It was sticky when it ran and if the engine wasn't turning you just about couldn't get the pedal down. Not saying thats what you did, but I did once and thought I'd mention it.
Appreciate it, Marlin, I think we're going to need all the help we can get. The grass is already brown. At this point, I start worrying about the trees & the lakes drying up. I have numerous cracks in my yard 1/2" or more wide!
1650 Resto - anyone heard of "Preval" system for painting?
I've been looking into paint solutions for my restore. I am limited by resources and funds to a rattle can job. I recently came across a product (supposedly carried at Home Depot) that sprays like a can (has built in propellant), but allows you to mix paints prior to spaying - think of a rattle can you can charge with your own paint.
Here is a link:
http://www.preval.com/what-is-preval
Anyone heard or had experience with this product? My desire (if going to all the trouble to do a restoration) would be to have a durable paint job - since this will still be a working tractor. As I understand it, regular rattle can paint lacks a "hardener" that makes the paint resistant to chemical & UV damage - which makes rattle can paint jobs not desirable from a "long term" perspective. As I further understand things, you can use this Preval product to mix Cub Paint and the appropriate hardener and for limited applications (which I would think a garden tractor would qualify as...) you can get a reasonable approximation of a true, compressor based, professional paint application.
I understand that when using "hardeners" that respiratory protection must be used - so it is not an "apples to apples" process - however, assuming that one takes the proper precautions - could a total newbie do a decent, durable paint job with this thing? How difficult is it to mix the proper amounts of paint/hardener to get a proper application? Is there anything I'm missing here?
Thanks for any advice,
-Calvin
I've been looking into paint solutions for my restore. I am limited by resources and funds to a rattle can job. I recently came across a product (supposedly carried at Home Depot) that sprays like a can (has built in propellant), but allows you to mix paints prior to spaying - think of a rattle can you can charge with your own paint.
Here is a link:
http://www.preval.com/what-is-preval
Anyone heard or had experience with this product? My desire (if going to all the trouble to do a restoration) would be to have a durable paint job - since this will still be a working tractor. As I understand it, regular rattle can paint lacks a "hardener" that makes the paint resistant to chemical & UV damage - which makes rattle can paint jobs not desirable from a "long term" perspective. As I further understand things, you can use this Preval product to mix Cub Paint and the appropriate hardener and for limited applications (which I would think a garden tractor would qualify as...) you can get a reasonable approximation of a true, compressor based, professional paint application.
I understand that when using "hardeners" that respiratory protection must be used - so it is not an "apples to apples" process - however, assuming that one takes the proper precautions - could a total newbie do a decent, durable paint job with this thing? How difficult is it to mix the proper amounts of paint/hardener to get a proper application? Is there anything I'm missing here?
Thanks for any advice,
-Calvin
CALVIN - The rattle-can repaint on my 72 is over thirty yrs old and doesn't look THAT bad. I have some pine tree sap stains on the hood that are REALLY stubborn, and other than to mow it's never outside so no fading. Preparation and how the paint is cared for after application is the key to long lasting paint. Even cheap paint won't lose it's shine & fade if kept out of the sun and waxed a couple times a year. I did a rattle-can paint job on the grill, hood, & gas tank of my Super H FARMALL over FORTY yrs ago, the worst fading color there is, IH 2150 red, it hasn't been waxed in probably 25 yrs and SON buffed it out two years ago and it cleaned up really nice. It also sets inside.
That spray system looks like it would work. I've never used one or looked at them before. You could probably add hardener to the top coat with that sprayer, but YES, you need either a supplied air system or a VERY good paint mask to shoot paint with hardener. An auto body paint & supply shop should be able to fix you up with the measuring cups & supplies you need.
That spray system looks like it would work. I've never used one or looked at them before. You could probably add hardener to the top coat with that sprayer, but YES, you need either a supplied air system or a VERY good paint mask to shoot paint with hardener. An auto body paint & supply shop should be able to fix you up with the measuring cups & supplies you need.
Any SPRAYED paint needs at least a mask. I do a lot of Krylon spraying on lures and I can't tell ya how many times I've been gasping for air later that night. Hard to get oxygen when your lungs have a sealed coat of paint on them.
hey all, just mowed my well overdue yard with the cub, it ran like a champ, cut good too. only thing i had an issue with was the blowby, it still had almost as much coming out of the breather as it used to, im wondering if its worn tappet holes on the block or unseated rings causing it. it burns a little oil off on startup but its not enough to really notice (partially paint still burning off/out of the muffler too.)
