• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through August 07, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hydro whine MIGHT be lessened by a good filter and oil change, but it has been my experience that hydros, especially those with hyd lift due to the higher charge pump pressures, tend to whine....sometimes very pronounced under a hard pull. If it works fine and just whines a little, feed it some cheese and keep on working it!!!!!
happy.gif
happy.gif
happy.gif
 
Scott some whine in the hydro is normal. I have changed the oil and filter and lessened the noise but not that much. If the oil needs changed it should be done anyway.
I have owned hydros for 30 years and they will spoil you. I don't like mowing with a gear drive where there is a lot of obstacles to mow around. And a 38" deck just adds more misery.
Just my 02c
 
Tom H & Steve B Where's the get together ? I missed the social calender. We're getting Big Rain this morning, in southern WI.
 
Memory failure. Two years ago I bought a new gas tank from my local dealer. The filler neck was on top of the tank and I would have had to cut a hole in the hood to use it so I sent it back.
The next one was black plastic and had the filler neck recessed into the top of the tank which allowed me to close the hood so I kept it.
Now I need the gasket that goes between the tank and the shut-off valve and I can't remember where I bought the tank. Does this tank sound familiar to anyone?
 
STEVE B. - Neat addition to Your plow! With all the improvements You've made to Your plow you really deserve the title "Mr. PLOW"! I see a plow day coming up soon where plowing untouched corn stalks won't be a problem!

KENNETH D. - I've been following Your threads and all the discussions on the other forum. Rust & corrosion like You and Richard C. had was not caused by inner tubes. Years ago when Dad was still farming one summer it seemed like every time I hooked up to a piece of equipment it had a flat tire I had to patch an inner tube on. Yes, when left outside with a flat tire the inside of a rim/wheel can rust and eventually bond the tube to the rim but something needs to start the corrosion first, whether it is tire sealant, calcium chloride solution, or whatever. If inner tubes themselves caused the corrosion there wouldn't be a usable rim or wheel on ANY farm equip. over 30-40 yrs old. And that just isn't the case.

RICHARD P. - Amp gauges now days are VERY cheaply made and are non-adjustable. If You were to remove the gauge and shake it slightly I bet You'll find the needle or pointer is loose on the shaft. They're sealed from the factory, so replacement is about the only cure.
 
PAUL R. - Things were REALLY getting dry weren't they! Last rain around Madison was during RPRU.

NED S. - I bought an 8 quart plastic OEM replacement gas tank about 4-5 yrs ago. Filler neck on it was also very long, and the supplied cap was very tall. I took the tank back and the dealer found Me a B&S gas cap that was much lower and I carefully sanded the filler neck down on a belt or disc sander and was able to use the OEM tank. The shut-off valve on that tank was installed with a rubber grommet in the bottom of the tank. Is That grommet what You need? The grommet out of the OEM tank very possible would fit the tank You have with the recessed filler.
 
Dennis Frisk,
RICHARD P. - Amp gauges now days are VERY cheaply made and are non-adjustable. If You were to remove the gauge and shake it slightly I bet You'll find the needle or pointer is loose on the shaft. They're sealed from the factory, so replacement is about the only cure.

Thanks for the information. I really did not want to go through removing a gauge just to see. I guess cheaply made translates into cheap to replace. Thanks again.
 
RICHARD - Gauge discussions come up over @ RPM forum frequently. It's really tough to find a new gauge that holds up now days.
 
Dennis, unfortunately that rain missed the stateline. My yard is brown with a few streaks of green in it. I have only mowed once in the past 4 weeks and that was only to knock down the weeds.
 
Back
Top