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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Frank, just curious, have you noticed what the amp gauge was doing during all your issues getting this 128 to run? Back when it was running for a short time? I'm not sure what the symptoms are of a bad amp gauge but it is possible that your's has gone bad.
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If you disconnect the wires from the amp gauge and connect them all together, it would be a way to test if it has gone bad.
 
With these old wires they can look good on the ends but deep inside the insulation they can be badly corroded, moisture wicks up the wires dries on the ends but stays wet inside the length of wire causing corrosion over the years. Sooooo, yes it might be time for a new wiring harness, how many weeks now have you been fighting with your 128?
 
amp gage - worked normal when running. showed discharge in the on position, charge when running. did not check during testing.
no more testing today, will check it next time.

i have been arguing with the tractor since i bought it in the spring, but it only came to blows a few weeks ago when i lost spark.

hopefully, the new harness will fix the stalling when hot issue too.

the problem is, i knew just about everything on the tractor was shot when i bought it. looked like it was never serviced. i should have rebuilt it and not tried to run it. but, it was running, so i thought i could fix it a little at a time.

oh well, hopefully i will have it for the snow.
 
Speaking of amp gauges. Can a IH CC amp gauge be zeroed back to the center position with everything off? I don't have one that is not installed and removing one to look, well I thought I'd ask.
 
kraig M, What do you mean by zeroed back in? Is the "needle" maybe stuck on one side or the other? I took an anp gauge out of the CC 105 I parted and it is centered as they all do when the tractor is shut off.Can you give me some details?
 
Josh Ott,
Richard Palmer here. I have an amp gauge that the needle sits about a 3 needle widths to the discharge side when the tractor is off. It does work and the tractor charges but the needle is off a bit. Is there a way to recenter it?
 
Terry Reed – Yeah, that rim was pretty nasty.

Dennis Frisk – Thank you for your input on the tire and tube information.

Marlin Homrighausen – I don't get it. You asked for a tube in your rim and the store put Slime in instead? What in the world were the individuals thinking when they used Slime when you asked of a tube? Whatever man.

Josh Spicer – Yeah, the sealant used got pretty nasty left attended. That's why I wanted to bring up the subject again so others can see what can happen if you use tire sealants for long term service. NOT a good idea!!!

Matt Gonitzke – That looks like a pretty darn good break job you did there. I'm gonna need to do something with my 149 breaks pretty soon and the way you've done yours looks pretty cool.

Kraig McConaughey – I'm awaiting a new ignition switch for my 149 and I'm glad you posted the electrical diagram you did I think I'm gonna use it. Yes, I know the diagram is located in the SM but I like the colored one you posted better.
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Kenneth
 
Kenneth D. The bummer is the store charged the same price as installing a tube. I should have checked everything over only I was in a hurry to get everything loaded and ready for an early morning start. I've since done very little business with that store.

I need some advice on this. I was at a local small engine shop this morning checking in with a good buddy that has worked on small engines for over 50 years now. I asked him about installing the oil seal on the PTO side of the Keepsake 1650 and removing the balance gears and frame rail modification. I told him that a little too much oil was added to the engine accidently (which it was) when I had to have others mow the lawn while I was laid up. He said that would definintely take out a seal. He said that I could replace the seal myself, don't worry about the balance gears since the engine has been well maintained and never abused, and if the rubber mounts are still good (they are) then don't do the modification until I take the 1650 apart to refurbish it.

My question is.... The Keepsake 1650 is the bad oil seal tractor. Approximately how long and involved is removing and reinstaling everything going to take me? Now that I can get around (and go back to work next week) I really need to work on Angel's 129 for an upcoming parade. TIA for all help.

Matt G. Great write up on the brake relining. Any chance there may be a thinner section of the material?

Scott T. That would be neat behind Clarence with his rear pto.
 
Scott T...That should work out well. I'm in a holding pattern till I get a pto drive shaft stub that will work with the small pto spline. There is on from a Kubota that will fit but I have misplaced all my info so it's back to the books to find the right one again.........
 
It will take longer to pull the pto and front cowling stuff just to get to the seal. Removing the seal itself isn't that bad.
 
Rich P, Sorry i had the wrong name.LOL I would have to look at my amp meter tomorow and let you know if it can be centered.
Ken D, Those colors make it so much more fun to work on, dont they
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Marlin-

Unfortunately, the thinnest material they had was 3/16". Today, I installed the other pad after using a rasp to carefully remove about .025" from each pad.
 
Scott T, very need sickle you have there, would be a fun project to mounth it up to a cub, on a side note, very nice caprice too(89?) hopefully you have a hitch on it to tow the cub around..
 
Matt:
Quick pass or two with a belt sander will take 'em to the right thickness.... also - what type of glue is that Red Devil For Small Projects? I've done a couple three pad jobs on lawn/garden tractors and was told by a Bolens dealer years ago to use a high bond two part marine epoxy - we went to a boat dealer and bought a small kit of Marine-Tex. This stuff bonds to almost anything, sets up really hard and won't let go. I'd be wary of most household glues - it might not seem risky, but a runaway Cub on a downhill can wipe out lots of stuff (like 15 year old forsythia bushes that finally were starting to look good....
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Kendell-

The rasp works pretty good. I don't think we have a belt sander, anyway. The glue is waterproof. It gives a laundry list of stuff it works on, which is nearly everything. If it fails, I'll be sure to let everyone know...
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Big Steve and I have often talked about how Brinly plows could use some more weight on them to help keep them in the ground and to allow you to flatten out the point adjustment (easier pulling, better furrow walls, etc.).

After some tire kicking the other night, I came up with this design. It allows for the addition of 3 MWSC weights (30# plus the bracket) and as a bonus makes a neat clean place to mount a cover board to help keep trash flowing around the main beam. Nothing is welded to, nor were any extra holes drilled in the plow, making this a neat little "add-on"...

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I made one for my 12" plow and one for Big Steve's....plan on testing them at the IHCC Chapter 2 PD this Sunday....hopefully they will provide some improved performance.

...and the 1872 has "grown up" this week and has become a stealth 2072, with a nice 385 hour 20hp Kohler Magnum under the hood....Sunday should be FUN!!!!! .......
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Hey Steve, the pix didn't come up.
I'll be seeing you there on Sunday. Better bring the sunscreen, supputta' be about 97*. ~~8-( Anyone else comming?
 
Could anyone tell me if a loudly whinning hydro in a 1650 could be fixed by changing the filter and Hy-Tran? Also is it normal for the hydros to have a little bit of whine to them? This is the first one I have had so I'm not so sure what "normal" is for a hydro! I have only ever had gear drives. Also are the carburators from the 12hp k's usable on a 10hp K? Thanks ahead!
 
Tom,

Try a refresh, they are showing up fine on my monitor.

Big Steve and I will be heading up and plan on meeting Chris, Mike, Mark, and probably some others...Travis said he might drive over depending on a few things he had going....

Sunscreen, big hat, WATER, and plenty of extra shirts!!!!!!
 

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