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dplogman

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Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
131
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David R. Plogman
Scott- Wonder how I’d do to pull against Dan’s tractor, my 122 is a 12 horse, his is a 12 horse. He would probably pull the rubber off my tires. My old 122 is going well, finally after 5 years I think I got the deck leveled. If my yard didn’t have so many holes in it, I might get a nice smooth cut. Good luck on the Fairlane- a little at a time. The guy that sits next to me thinks I’ll cut my foot off if I got one of those sickle things. Does look pretty dangerous…Dave
 
Ryan, the 126 engine and transmission parts should fit in just fine, however there are I believe some differences in the clutch and drive shaft parts. Use the Parts Lookup to compare the part numbers. BTW, the engine in the 86 uses a special crank, the PTO end of the crank is longer. Might be worth rebuilding that little guy.
 
Matt, nice write up on the brake relining.

Charlie, is Matt's write up FAQ worthy?
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Spent some time last night in the shop making some cool new additions to a couple plows for a local event this weekend. Found a slick way to add weight and a neat little cover board. I will post pics tonight when I get home.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Friday, August 07, 2009 - 08:51 am:

Ryan, the 126 engine and transmission parts should fit in just fine, however there are I believe some differences in the clutch and drive shaft parts. Use the Parts Lookup to compare the part numbers. <font color="0000ff">BTW, the engine in the 86 uses a special crank, the PTO end of the crank is longer. Might be worth rebuilding that little guy.</font><!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Now I didn't know that, Kraig. Very interesting....
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<font face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Hmmmm,,, Sounds like the 86 engine is kinda a weird duck -
Do you think I could just use the PTO clutch from the 126 in its place or wouldn't it fit well with the remaining 86 linkage?

Ryan Wilke
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Ryan, not sure. If it were me, I'd park the 126 and the 86 side by side and compare parts. I believe the PTO in the 86 is in the "normal" position thus the longer crank. The 8hp is smaller then the 10 and 12hp and is mounted rearward so that the drive shaft/clutch setup can use the same parts as the 108 and 109. Sooooo, to get the PTO in the proper position to clear the axle mount, IH went with a longer crank output stub on the 8hp 86.
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Dave P
I have this thing that my dad futzed with 30 years ago, I think it is either a Planet or Bradley, but he had it working at one time... once i get my menagerie functioning, this project is next...
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Thanks, Kraig. Sounds like good advice, as usual.
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Ryan
 
Scott- Looks like a project all right! Does that thing go on the back of the tractor? There is some steel under that rust somewhere...Dave
 
Scott, David, that looks like it's setup to mount off of a Cub Cadet rear lift hitch and powered with a tiller 90 degree gear box. Could be a fun project to resurrect.
 
That's what it was for, off the rear pto... It originally was on a walk-behind of some sort... It needs a redesign to rid of the jackshaft, and a belt tensioner... I also want to fab up a 60" rear mount finish mower, using a newer cub cadet deck. I spotted this one on CL
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I'm waiting for the price to come down...
 
Here's a question about my 126, is there some kind of brake pedal return spring ? My brake pedal doesn't seem to come back all the way and I can hear a rattling noise from underneath the tractor when it's running, if I lift up on the brake pedal the noise goes away, seems like there should be a spring or something for the brake pedal, thanks guys.
Dave
 
Dave, there should be a return spring for the clutch/brake pedal. The Parts Lookup is a wonderful thing.

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my 128 with the staling problem that progressed to a no spark problem.

put a test light on the terminal on the points and then on the - side of coil. here are my results.

key in the ON position.
flywheel on S.
adjusted points all the way over to wide open, weak light. i would guess about 6V. you have to wait about 3 seconds then the light slowly comes on, but dim.
key OFF, no light.

adjusted all the way closed, key ON.
same.
key OFF, same .

light was tested against the battery several times during testing to rule out the light or connections.

i should get a strong light when points are open and no light when closed, correct?

i also checked the sides of the points with the light, for a short. no light.

any guesses?
 
just tried same test with engine cranking, points adjust all the way open, then all they way closed. same results. dim light, and it does not go on and off while engine cranks.
 
Frank, it sounds to me like you have a marginal connection somewhere. I would disconnect the battery round up a decent Ohm Meter and start checking the resistance between every connection. Starting with the ignition switch.

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jumper from terminal on points to a ground.
key in ON or OFF.
test light on - side of coil.
no light.
 
thanks for the advice.

since i see a lot of problems with the wiring anyway, do you think a whole new harness is a better idea?
if it is just a connection, it would save time. but if there is a chance it is something else, it would be a waste of time.

test or replace? what do you think?
 

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