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Archive through August 06, 2010
- Thread starter wshytle
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Wayne S - you lost me or I missed something. Is this on the bottom of the shaft for the hydro speed control lever??? If so, then yes it's way to small. It should very nearly touch itself when in place.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and really enjoy being worked on)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and really enjoy being worked on)
Harry-
Yes, it's the cam that deals with the trunion springs. It's also the only shaft you deal with that comes directly out of the pump. The only other bushing that deals with the hydro is at the bottom of the shift lever, correct?
I think the hardest part of working on these machines is waiting for and getting the CORRECT parts. I thought I remembered the bushing, as you said, fit with just a little space in the split. I even double checked the part number to get it right the first time. Oh well....
Thanks
Yes, it's the cam that deals with the trunion springs. It's also the only shaft you deal with that comes directly out of the pump. The only other bushing that deals with the hydro is at the bottom of the shift lever, correct?
I think the hardest part of working on these machines is waiting for and getting the CORRECT parts. I thought I remembered the bushing, as you said, fit with just a little space in the split. I even double checked the part number to get it right the first time. Oh well....
Thanks
I just bought a 125, engine turns over, but I can`t get the hydro handle to move, is this normal when the engine is turned off ? Or maybe I got another "it just needs a tuneup and it will run great" tractor. I am not very familiar with the hydros, so some input would be great, thanks.......Lyle
hydroharry
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Wayne - we're talking about 2 different shafts here. You're talking about the shaft coming out of the trunion on the hydro pump. I was talking about the shaft connected to the speed control lever on the dash.
As far as I know the shaft coming out the side of the hydro pump does not have a bushing. Your pics are so close up I can't really tell what this part is. Can you take another pic with a little distance and show the pump as well??
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but do often get bushed)
As far as I know the shaft coming out the side of the hydro pump does not have a bushing. Your pics are so close up I can't really tell what this part is. Can you take another pic with a little distance and show the pump as well??
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but do often get bushed)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
That's not where that goes. It goes in the pivot of the plate with the J-shaped slot.
That's not where that goes. It goes in the pivot of the plate with the J-shaped slot.
hydroharry
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Lyle B - is this your 3rd 125??? Your profile mentions having 2 already. I believe the hydro lever should move without the engine running but you also need to have the brake pedal unlocked (if memory serves me correct). Why don't you check one of your other 125's to see? As for "justs needs a tuneup and will run great" tractor, that may depend on your definition of a tune up. I generally think of an "engine" needing a tune up. If the tractor needs a tune-up, I'd ask the PO to define it.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (they do require periodic maintenance)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (they do require periodic maintenance)
I need some help here guys.
Last week I took the piston out of my k341(169). bad news is that when the piston let go a big piece dropped down into the crankcase and was shot up and wedged in beside the cylinder cracking the block. I have looked all week but there just isn't any decent used 341 blocks or complete engines for that matter up here in Ontario.
What I did find find were two running Magnum 14's, the guy had them on big hydralic house raising jacks and was going to scrap them. I am going to check them out Sunday but before I get there will I be able to mount them in my 169?
Last week I took the piston out of my k341(169). bad news is that when the piston let go a big piece dropped down into the crankcase and was shot up and wedged in beside the cylinder cracking the block. I have looked all week but there just isn't any decent used 341 blocks or complete engines for that matter up here in Ontario.
What I did find find were two running Magnum 14's, the guy had them on big hydralic house raising jacks and was going to scrap them. I am going to check them out Sunday but before I get there will I be able to mount them in my 169?
Harry, I didn`t define the tuneup thing, that`s the story I always hear when I am buying one of these things, the other 125 handles move, I thought I was missing something, as far as tractors, I guess I should update my profile, cause I have another 100 that I bought a month ago, thanks..........Lyle
Matt-
You are sooo right as usual. I found the bushing I'm speaking of (in the part with the "j" slot) but it still doesn't solve my problem. Is there a bushing that goes on the shaft coming out of the pump, a 5/8"shaft? There must be or something is bad wrong with my set up. I was sure there was a nylon bushing for this pivot as well. I don't see it on the parts look up.
I don't know whether I'm getting frustrated or ticked at this point. I just want to get this 129 back together so I can get on to more cub projects.
You are sooo right as usual. I found the bushing I'm speaking of (in the part with the "j" slot) but it still doesn't solve my problem. Is there a bushing that goes on the shaft coming out of the pump, a 5/8"shaft? There must be or something is bad wrong with my set up. I was sure there was a nylon bushing for this pivot as well. I don't see it on the parts look up.
I don't know whether I'm getting frustrated or ticked at this point. I just want to get this 129 back together so I can get on to more cub projects.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
No bushing in that part, it's just metal-to-metal. The best way I've found to fix that (short of heating the part with the hole cherry red to anneal it, boring the hole oversize, and pressing a bronze bushing into it) is to simply put shim washers between that plate and the snap ring to take up the slop.
No bushing in that part, it's just metal-to-metal. The best way I've found to fix that (short of heating the part with the hole cherry red to anneal it, boring the hole oversize, and pressing a bronze bushing into it) is to simply put shim washers between that plate and the snap ring to take up the slop.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The loader is now mounted to the 682. Now I have some plumbing to do. It's also been fun finding places for the filter and the reservoir. I think I'll attach the reservoir on the upright sort of like it is now, just up higher. I need to buy a couple of hydraulic hoses to get it all hooked up, and then rebuild the cylinders. I leaned the carb a lot and most of the misfire is gone. I put a jumper from the + terminal of the battery to the + terminal of the coil with no effect, and readjusting the carb helped, but it's still there. I may replace the wire between the coil and the points for good measure. It also starts harder than I'd like, but that's probably because the fuel pump has to refill the float bowl before every start. On the gravity feed systems, it stays full.
Matt-
I see. I would probably better off just replacing the cam itself. I didn't realize wear could be so prominent in a place like this instead of a bushing. I'll try shimming first but will probably end up getting a new cam for that spot. Thanks for the input and the loader project is looking great. Nothing has looked like the 124 with the loader until now. I hope the hydro makes life easier for you. Do you plan to "beef up" the front spindles?
I see. I would probably better off just replacing the cam itself. I didn't realize wear could be so prominent in a place like this instead of a bushing. I'll try shimming first but will probably end up getting a new cam for that spot. Thanks for the input and the loader project is looking great. Nothing has looked like the 124 with the loader until now. I hope the hydro makes life easier for you. Do you plan to "beef up" the front spindles?
My grandson has a 30 year old Cub with a 10hp Kohler. We have some "blow by" due to the age and wear. Right now we do not have the money to rebuild the engine. Will Lucas Oil Stabilizer help to seal the rings until we can afford a rebuild ?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Charles-
I doubt it. Snake oils can't put back the material that has worn off the piston and bore.
Wayne-
A new part might or might not help because the trunion shaft itself is worn, too, and probably about the same as the plate that rides on it. The shims will help a lot. I may beef up the spindles someday, but this will do for now. I'll just repack the bearings frequently and keep those bald tires on the front to make steering easier.
I doubt it. Snake oils can't put back the material that has worn off the piston and bore.
Wayne-
A new part might or might not help because the trunion shaft itself is worn, too, and probably about the same as the plate that rides on it. The shims will help a lot. I may beef up the spindles someday, but this will do for now. I'll just repack the bearings frequently and keep those bald tires on the front to make steering easier.
hydroharry
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Wayne - how bout still providing us a pic of where that bushing gets installed. I can't seem to recall where it is even with the description by Matt.
Lyle - if the speed control lever doesn't move with the brake pedal in the released position, then I'd be PO'd at the PO. Could be a number of things. Does it move at all??? Or is it really locked in place??? I think you're gonna have to remove the fenders to get a good look at the linkage. Not sure if Matt or others will have a different suggestion. YOu can try looking from underneath to begin with, for something binding, but you can't see much on a narrow frame as I recall. (By the way, I'd sure like to have a 100 with fenders).
Barry K - I didn't see anyone respond to your question on whether a Kohler 14 Magnum would fit in place of a Kohler K341 (real shame about the crack in the block). It's gonna take someone that's familiar with the single cylinder Magnum (I assume they are singles). I've seen the 12hp Magnums and they look almost exactly the same in appearance to the K. It's a question of the pan mounting bolts lining up with the holes in the CC frame, but additionally, there is the question of the crankshaft size on the PTO side, and what's on the flywheel side. The magnum uses an integrated starter which should fit. Not sure what a Magnum has for a dip stick. You might have to open the hood to check the oil. I think in general the Magnum would fit, but I have no idea if it would bolt up and whether you could actually use it. There are alot of questions - so it will take someone that knows by either having done it already, or why it won't work. I'd still grab those 2 Magnums, and maybe you could resell them to pay for a K341 block. We all know the 13 cooling fin K341A is extremely hard to find but there must be alot of K341AQS 12fin blocks around. You would have to remove and plug the oil fill dipstick tube and install the one from your current block (the oil tube on the AQS is in the way of the starter/generator set up from your 169 block). The remainder of the block should be fine as I recall. Try checking with the Forum Sponsors for an AQS block.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but some original parts due have to be updated or replaced).
Lyle - if the speed control lever doesn't move with the brake pedal in the released position, then I'd be PO'd at the PO. Could be a number of things. Does it move at all??? Or is it really locked in place??? I think you're gonna have to remove the fenders to get a good look at the linkage. Not sure if Matt or others will have a different suggestion. YOu can try looking from underneath to begin with, for something binding, but you can't see much on a narrow frame as I recall. (By the way, I'd sure like to have a 100 with fenders).
Barry K - I didn't see anyone respond to your question on whether a Kohler 14 Magnum would fit in place of a Kohler K341 (real shame about the crack in the block). It's gonna take someone that's familiar with the single cylinder Magnum (I assume they are singles). I've seen the 12hp Magnums and they look almost exactly the same in appearance to the K. It's a question of the pan mounting bolts lining up with the holes in the CC frame, but additionally, there is the question of the crankshaft size on the PTO side, and what's on the flywheel side. The magnum uses an integrated starter which should fit. Not sure what a Magnum has for a dip stick. You might have to open the hood to check the oil. I think in general the Magnum would fit, but I have no idea if it would bolt up and whether you could actually use it. There are alot of questions - so it will take someone that knows by either having done it already, or why it won't work. I'd still grab those 2 Magnums, and maybe you could resell them to pay for a K341 block. We all know the 13 cooling fin K341A is extremely hard to find but there must be alot of K341AQS 12fin blocks around. You would have to remove and plug the oil fill dipstick tube and install the one from your current block (the oil tube on the AQS is in the way of the starter/generator set up from your 169 block). The remainder of the block should be fine as I recall. Try checking with the Forum Sponsors for an AQS block.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but some original parts due have to be updated or replaced).
hydroharry
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Barry K - Besides what I mentioned below there ia one more thing on the 14hp Magnum. I mentioned the question of the oil pan mounting bolts lining up, well what I really meant was the pan itself may not work. IH CCs used a special oil pan and block. Even if the Magnums have a dished pan on one side, the mounting holes in the block may be different and not line up with the CC frame holes. There are alot of things that could be issues so I'd lean toward the Kohler K AQS block I mentioned, and you should be able to transfer all the things from your K341A to make it work as I described.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and some things are just not interchangeable)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and some things are just not interchangeable)
thanks for the help Harry. I can pick the 14's up dirt cheap and like you said they will make great trade bait if nothing else. I was worried about the mounting bolt location. It broke my heart to see the crack in the 341, I have never had a tractor with the torque of that engine.
I am not familar with the quietlines, did a 1450 use a Magnum 14? anyone?
I am not familar with the quietlines, did a 1450 use a Magnum 14? anyone?
Sorry Harry, neither of my 100`s have fenders. I was messing with the 125 last night and that lever is really stuck, I`ll take the deck off this weekend, cause I wonder if it is in the linkage, the brake pedal feels kind of funky, this is the first 125 I`ve bought that I had to mess with, the others I just did fluids, points, carb kits, cleaned out gas tank and enjoy. This one will be a good learning experience..............Lyle
Harry-
I'm just up to my old "jumping to conclusions" again. I could have sworn there was a nylon bushing on the pump shaft when I took the 149 apart so I assumed (there's the problem) that the 129 would be identical. Matt straightened me out and after deeply studying the parts look-up I realize my mistake. The bushing I bought goes to the other cam, the one operated by the neutral return rod.
At least I have this forum to keep me straight. I now have to just replace the cam or, as Matt suggested, shim the one I have to tighten it up. It has quite a bit of slop so time will tell. I hope this clears things up for you as well.
All is good and thanks to all involved.
I'm just up to my old "jumping to conclusions" again. I could have sworn there was a nylon bushing on the pump shaft when I took the 149 apart so I assumed (there's the problem) that the 129 would be identical. Matt straightened me out and after deeply studying the parts look-up I realize my mistake. The bushing I bought goes to the other cam, the one operated by the neutral return rod.
At least I have this forum to keep me straight. I now have to just replace the cam or, as Matt suggested, shim the one I have to tighten it up. It has quite a bit of slop so time will tell. I hope this clears things up for you as well.
All is good and thanks to all involved.
