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Archive through August 06, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Lyle B.-

The shaft is probably rusted stuck where the friction washers are. I can't remember if the 123 is similar in design to the 125, but if it is, there's a bit on the shaft that you need to loosen and then spray that whole area with PB Blaster. You are probably really going to have to reef on the lever, but you'll eventually get it to move.
 
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<font size="-2">Someone want to check and see if the midwest still exists.</font>
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lol we all had the same idea,it just took me longer to get it posted
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. In two weeks I will have lots to post as the wife will be back to work . Then I can get back to the Cubs I have a 450 snow blower that will get some parts ordered also. Have a great day
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Did I read something about a 100 ?

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And this 62 could used some paint and the deck refurbed lol

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And i`am sure you all know where this belongs ?

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There, I will see if this place is dead.
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Barry K - it broke my heart to. Another K341A 13fin is likely gone. BUT the 169 can still live. On your question about a 1450, which is a Quiet Line, it used a K321AQS (14hp). The 1650 used a K341AQS, which is the block you need to get, and you can re-make into a K341A for your 169.

Barry (under edit) - is the block itself cracked or did part of the bottom of the cylinder crack off??? I believe if it's only part of the cylinder wall at the bottom it's possible you could still use the block. Have to have someone with knowledge look at it.

Wayne - the 129 and 149 are the same. I checked my TC-157 and now see where that bushing goes. Just didn't recall it.

Lyle - since you mentioned the brake pedal feels kind of funky I think I'd look into that linkage first and see if it's somehow freezing the hydro lever. Based on your indication it's really frozen I don't think it's the brake, but there are a few cast pieces in the entire linkage and connections and one could be broke jamming the entire set up. Fortunately you have another 125 to use for comparison and I'm certain you'll find the problem. (I was just thinking, I made a mistake on suggesting the fender removal - the 125 has the covered frame and square fenders - and to be honest, it's been so long I don't remember exactly how to access the hydro linkage on the narrow frame).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but if they get to cold they can freeze up and be really stuck)
 
Don-
I think that piece you pictured is the spacer that goes behind this throttle bell-crank...?

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Harry the block is cracked beyond repair. I took it to the shop that built the engine out of my Mustang and they confirmed it is toast.........

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unbelievable but while driving around I found a 149 one mile from my house. it has not ran ever and has sat in a barn for ten years but the owner still wants $600 for it! I am going to have to work on him.
 
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I'm putting my deep sump oil pan on my k341. Is there a correct way it is suppose to go on? According to the cub cadet website parts look up they show the sump part towards the flywheel. I could swear when I took it off the deep sump part was towards the PTO end.
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Perhaps a PO put it on wrong or perhaps the drawing on the parts look up is wrong?
 
Rob-
Yes, the sump goes on the flywheel end of the engine. If you swing the crank around one revolution, you'll see that the rod-dipper needs that sump space near the rear.
 
Home of the Plow Special (Art)
You are correct(its off my 125) lol
I hope my 1961 O comes out looking like yours . I don`t plan on a complete factory deal on any tractor I have ,till I paint them all once lol.
You can have to many Cubs , for old men to restore.
off to a old car show here.
 
Thanks Harry, it looks like I can get some access by taking off the deck and deck carrier also the battery. I can see the bottom of the linkage thru an access hole under the pto lever, I`m pretty sure now it`s something simple just the way the brake pedal feels compared to the others, thanks again Matt and Harry..............................Lyle
 
Barry - can you post any pics of the K341 block. An engine rebuild shop is likely to tell you it couldn't be rebuilt. I still say if only a part of the bottom of the cylinder wall is cracked off then there is a chance you could rebuild it. It just depends on how much and where it's cracked off.
Now, about the 149, you ARE going to have to work on him. Still, I wouldn't put the 14hp in your 169. I'd still get an AQS block.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they don't like wise cracks or chips off the old block)
 
Lyle B - well, lets hope it's something simple, BUT I'm gonna guess it won't be the easiest to fix. It's probably gonna involve tearing apart alot.

By the way, I just noticed you're in the "Dakota Territory". I grew up in Vermillion and remember the IH dealer having CCs sittin in the yard. Since I was a city kid I never really even bothered looking at them. All that's gone now and I wonder where the CCs went. They just have to be sittin in barns all across the state.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they are hard to come by)
 
Just for info, I am changing a set of kingpins on a big truck and found the drivers side pin is rusted solid in the axle. I always use Kroil for the really rusted up parts and so far no luck. I did some research and found out a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone supposedly works better than even Kroil. I've never had someting kroil wouldn't loosen up, so I'm hoping this works. Anyone ever hear of this mix? If it works, it's a heck of alot cheaper than the average can of nut buster products. Mostly I've seen or read about people using it for freeing up rusted pistons. Might turn out to be a good thing for all those rusted parts on those cubs we fix up. Nick
 
Picked this nice 149 up a few weeks back. Engine is a direct replacement from kohler with about 6 seasons on it. Cleaned it up, fixed some hyro leaks, changed oil, hytrain, spark plug, and filters. Just need to rebuilt the steering and adjust the hyro lever. Nice solid machine.
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Nick,
The 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is a favorite in the Kawasaki triple community ( remember the three cylinder two stroke motorcycles from the 60/70s ? )

They are notorious for fusing the cylinders ( cast aluminum w/ cast iron sleeves ) to the steel studs. That is a favorite of mine and I have quite a few cans of KROIL too.

Some guys even apply a torch to heat break the corrosion lock. IF you decide to try that yourself, keep a fire extinguisher handy as the mixture is extremely flammable.

Jeff
 
Nick, I have changed many king pins years ago and there is only one way to get them out of the axle. Heat and Beat. Large torch, preferably a rosebud, and a sledge. Spraying it really does nothing. To stay on topic, Tommorow I will put the mower deck on the 169 and put it back to work..Show time is over, Time to make it earn its keep!
 
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