dgallagher
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- Feb 12, 2000
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- David Gallagher
Can I replace the drive hub on the rear of the engine without loosening or removing the engine mounting bolts on my 169?Thanks
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Archive through August 03, 2011
- Thread starter elthomas
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Glen-
I doubt PVC is gasoline-resistant...not sure I'd use that.
Steve-
Drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole in it, and make a slide hammer with a piece of pipe and some all-thread, and it should pop right out.
I doubt PVC is gasoline-resistant...not sure I'd use that.
Steve-
Drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole in it, and make a slide hammer with a piece of pipe and some all-thread, and it should pop right out.
David G.
You can unbolt the flex coupler from the rear end and do it that way. BUT, in my opinion, it's faster and easier to take the 4 engine bolts out and slide it forward a little.
You can unbolt the flex coupler from the rear end and do it that way. BUT, in my opinion, it's faster and easier to take the 4 engine bolts out and slide it forward a little.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Now you tell me!
To "expand" on Matt's advice, that plug is pretty thick. Couldn't a threaded hole in the center of it have just a bolt threaded into it and "push" the plug out?
(The hammer, punch, chisel, screwdriver method I JUST did tonight -- sucks!)
To "expand" on Matt's advice, that plug is pretty thick. Couldn't a threaded hole in the center of it have just a bolt threaded into it and "push" the plug out?
(The hammer, punch, chisel, screwdriver method I JUST did tonight -- sucks!)
thanks guys. I already have the rear out, on the bench and mostly disassembled. Just haven't gotten the brake pivot shaft out of the way yet.
It's stubborn. I guess I'll be buying a new plug too huh...
For those who don't know, I'm attempting to replace the gear reduction setup with a chain drive.
I'll let you know how it goes.
It's stubborn. I guess I'll be buying a new plug too huh...
For those who don't know, I'm attempting to replace the gear reduction setup with a chain drive.
I'll let you know how it goes.
kide
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- Gerry Ide
KCA and Kentuck:
I'm guessing those are shims for leveling. And my 48" deck doesn't have the zerk on the idler - I can't remember the number of times I've had found it bound up on the shaft..Doesn't matter much now, the decks are up in the loft of the barn..
I'm guessing those are shims for leveling. And my 48" deck doesn't have the zerk on the idler - I can't remember the number of times I've had found it bound up on the shaft..Doesn't matter much now, the decks are up in the loft of the barn..
Gerry
KCA
Looking again I find that I had looked at the 38-44-50 decks on the tension zerk ... my bad.
This should explain a few things.
I find it strange to lube one @ 16 hrs and the other @ 200 hrs , didn't look but must be different type bearings.
KCA
Looking again I find that I had looked at the 38-44-50 decks on the tension zerk ... my bad.
This should explain a few things.
I find it strange to lube one @ 16 hrs and the other @ 200 hrs , didn't look but must be different type bearings.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
And note the instructions on the idler pivot ...remove and lube. I'll betcha the zerk was an inline engineering change..(you mean engineers might have actually listened to field complaints??)
Got out and rode with the Cushman scooter gang today - Yess!! On my Yamaha (boo)!! Rode to Hell, MI and back. (yes, it's really there) Got a patch at the Dam Site Inn store to prove it...
Got out and rode with the Cushman scooter gang today - Yess!! On my Yamaha (boo)!! Rode to Hell, MI and back. (yes, it's really there) Got a patch at the Dam Site Inn store to prove it...
HMMMM Guess I grease my mower decks WAY way too often, the 50C gets greased every other mowing, about every 6-8 hours of running, the 38" deck on the 72 every mowing, or about every 5-6 hours.
Grease is pretty cheap, bearings are not.
Dad put a zerk on the idler pivot my spare parts 38" deck but I don't have one on my good 38" deck, or my 44A or my 50C. A little lube would help them, but what I really wish MTD would do is make a better spring for them, every time I remove the idler arm the loop for the stationary end of the spring is broken.
Grease is pretty cheap, bearings are not.
Dad put a zerk on the idler pivot my spare parts 38" deck but I don't have one on my good 38" deck, or my 44A or my 50C. A little lube would help them, but what I really wish MTD would do is make a better spring for them, every time I remove the idler arm the loop for the stationary end of the spring is broken.
nbextermueller
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- May 18, 2007
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- Nic Bextermueller
Baby got a new pair of shoes! Ok, new Firestones all mounted up. Here's the goods...
Out with the old, in with the new. Check out the difference. 23x10.5 Goodyears on 8" rims on the left. 23x10.5 Firestone on the right on a 10" rim.
Here's 2 'stones. Man they look great.
Side view before the weights went on.
And the glory shot out in the yard. Yeah, everything needs a paint job. the new 30'x50' shop is going up the end of this month. Then the winter projects can begin.
Sorry about the fuzzy photos. It was getting dusk and I was using my old Canon point and click for the dirty work.
Out with the old, in with the new. Check out the difference. 23x10.5 Goodyears on 8" rims on the left. 23x10.5 Firestone on the right on a 10" rim.
Here's 2 'stones. Man they look great.
Side view before the weights went on.
And the glory shot out in the yard. Yeah, everything needs a paint job. the new 30'x50' shop is going up the end of this month. Then the winter projects can begin.
Sorry about the fuzzy photos. It was getting dusk and I was using my old Canon point and click for the dirty work.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
And here's a question for you guys. Notice where my fill plug is on my rear diff cover? And on the big bottom bracket, there is even a hole where the factory one should be. I noticed last time I ran the girl hard in the >100 degree heat I started to bubble the Hytran out of the vent ont he top of the rear.
Does it hurt these Hydro's to over fill them? I wouldn't think so. I fill the Diff till it weeped out the fill plug. But of course my fill plug is 2" higher then normal. Anybody see anything bad happening in this situation?
Does it hurt these Hydro's to over fill them? I wouldn't think so. I fill the Diff till it weeped out the fill plug. But of course my fill plug is 2" higher then normal. Anybody see anything bad happening in this situation?
Dave is correct the lower hole was for the 582.
NIC - Those tires really look nice, and I bet they bite really hard too!
I think a hydro being over-full would be better than one 2 inches low however much fluid that would be. As long as you have room for oil expansion as the Hy-Tran heats up which it sounds like your just about there, I wouldn't think there'd be a problem. The charge pump will always be able to get oil, the used oil from the motor excapes out the bearing around the output shaft, probably keep the oil cooler since it'll get to sit in the rearend a while longer before starting back thru the hydro unit.
I think a hydro being over-full would be better than one 2 inches low however much fluid that would be. As long as you have room for oil expansion as the Hy-Tran heats up which it sounds like your just about there, I wouldn't think there'd be a problem. The charge pump will always be able to get oil, the used oil from the motor excapes out the bearing around the output shaft, probably keep the oil cooler since it'll get to sit in the rearend a while longer before starting back thru the hydro unit.
Since my local generator shops owner died last week it looks like I will be rebuilding my 122s s/g myself. Any tips on how to remove the plugs on the sides that expose the brushes, I don't have any screwdrivers that are wide enough?
I just ordered a set ov v61s for the front of my 122.
I just ordered a set ov v61s for the front of my 122.
LUCAS - if you mean the really wide flat head slotted screws that are flush with the outside of the housing, those hold the magnets into the casing. Don't remove those!
To get to the brushes, you remove the two l-o-n-g tie bolts then gently tap the end cap on the pulley end off the steel housing which removes the armature, then tap the other end cap off the housing. The brushes are in spring loaded holders about where the two connections are on the back end of the housing.
For re-assembly, the housing slides over the armature, there's alignment pins to make sure it's lined up correctly, then you hold the brushes back and slide the armature the last inch or so in place, then install the back cover, install both l-o-n-g tie bolts. and DONE!
Been a while since I had one apart. As long as you don't have to replace a bushing, bearing, or one of the terminals & insulator bushings they are not hard to work on, just dirty with all the carbon dust. You should use Brake-Kleen to clean the commutator, the part of the armature the brushes ride on. Starter/generator shops normally recondition the ommutator by turning it on a lathe to make sure it's round, then under-cutting the mica, the insulating material between the segments of the comm, but that takes special tools.
If you look in the local big city phone book tere may be another starter/generator shop around.
To get to the brushes, you remove the two l-o-n-g tie bolts then gently tap the end cap on the pulley end off the steel housing which removes the armature, then tap the other end cap off the housing. The brushes are in spring loaded holders about where the two connections are on the back end of the housing.
For re-assembly, the housing slides over the armature, there's alignment pins to make sure it's lined up correctly, then you hold the brushes back and slide the armature the last inch or so in place, then install the back cover, install both l-o-n-g tie bolts. and DONE!
Been a while since I had one apart. As long as you don't have to replace a bushing, bearing, or one of the terminals & insulator bushings they are not hard to work on, just dirty with all the carbon dust. You should use Brake-Kleen to clean the commutator, the part of the armature the brushes ride on. Starter/generator shops normally recondition the ommutator by turning it on a lathe to make sure it's round, then under-cutting the mica, the insulating material between the segments of the comm, but that takes special tools.
If you look in the local big city phone book tere may be another starter/generator shop around.
Dennis, thanks for the info, I need to replace both terminals, the brushes, and the berrings. Do you have to take the front pulley off before dissasembly?
Well, since your replacing the frt bearing you will have to remove the pulley. But you can pull the S/G apart with the pulley still on the shaft. It'll just have the front end cap trapped between the armature/windings & pulley. I've never removed bearings from any S/G I've had apart.
