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Archive through August 03, 2011
- Thread starter elthomas
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mpatterson
Well-known member
Nic...YOU have a GREAT set of tires there!!!
I can't wait until I get around to getting some for both my 782 & 982. The sound of people talking that Miller is bringing back the 26's eventually is GREAT news!! Those tires just look mean and are sweeeet look'n!
Can't wait to see yours mounted up and on the Cub. Should get a picture of the wife sitting on the Cub with the new tires....since they are "OUR" tires....I think its only fair. That way you have blackmail material for sometime in the future if its ever needed?
Can't wait to see yours mounted up and on the Cub. Should get a picture of the wife sitting on the Cub with the new tires....since they are "OUR" tires....I think its only fair. That way you have blackmail material for sometime in the future if its ever needed?
ANYONE ELSE like to make a post that breaks the forums rules!
I'll be more than happy to open the cover on the button of mass destruction again!
I'll be more than happy to open the cover on the button of mass destruction again!
mpatterson
Well-known member
Did I miss something??
Hey all, I went out to start the cub and to adjust the carb/governor and its acting like the timings off again and or that my ACR isnt working, it will turn over almost a full revolution and get stuck, then muscle through it and spit out of the carb (got alot of black residue, looks like soot in the carb throat as i call it (think its a venturi? not sure) and then it repeats the process. it used to do that when it died on my back hill years ago when i decided to rebuild it. Is it my governor or the ACR or...? honestly dont know enough about these kohlers to definitively identify the issue. Sometimes itll turn over fine and fire right up (still runs goofy because i havent gotten it all ironed out yet...just wanna do it right so i can hopefully get another 40 years out of it.
Marlin, I'll start with your suggested solution to the "shake" I'm experiencing with the new engine mounts in the 1650. If it continues after several hours of run time, I'll recheck the torque and then inspect the driveshaft components.
Thanks for your response gents,
Al
Thanks for your response gents,
Al
Hi guys,, need help..Trying to start my 1250 after putting it back together and getting no power indication... Checked ground, wires, battery, still nothing... Someone told me about the clutch/brake switch (located under the tractor), but I don't see a "switch" on the quiteline underneath the tractor.. Where exactly is this switch? thanks.
Al-
Have you done the modification to the rails by welding them together? I haven't seen anything mentioned about it and it might help with the shaking. It will prolong the life of the iso mounts. Those snubbers are there for a reason too. I've seen those in all sorts of conditions mostly flat.
Nic-
I feel the same way about that Chevrolet emblem on the 149. I have always leaned towards Ford myself. I didn't get around to removing it today but it'll be gone tomorrow. It's only on the one side too. Maybe I'll put it on my green thing.
Have you done the modification to the rails by welding them together? I haven't seen anything mentioned about it and it might help with the shaking. It will prolong the life of the iso mounts. Those snubbers are there for a reason too. I've seen those in all sorts of conditions mostly flat.
Nic-
I feel the same way about that Chevrolet emblem on the 149. I have always leaned towards Ford myself. I didn't get around to removing it today but it'll be gone tomorrow. It's only on the one side too. Maybe I'll put it on my green thing.
William P.
Get under the tractor and there's supposed to be a little piece of spring metal attached to the brake pedal rock shaft just of center.
You'll probably see 2 wires going to the old switch or two wires wire nutted together.
Get under the tractor and there's supposed to be a little piece of spring metal attached to the brake pedal rock shaft just of center.
You'll probably see 2 wires going to the old switch or two wires wire nutted together.
Glen, they are 18-8.5s i just mounted them on stock rims off a 1450 with 1 inch spindles.
they dont rub anything except the rod coming from the steering box
but only a little bit when its locked out and if I put a blade on it they hit the lift arm.
I have tubes in them im planning on dismounting them and flipping them ( move the valve to the other side)
so I can run them deep dish style like yours are.this should fix the clearance issues
they dont rub anything except the rod coming from the steering box
but only a little bit when its locked out and if I put a blade on it they hit the lift arm.
I have tubes in them im planning on dismounting them and flipping them ( move the valve to the other side)
so I can run them deep dish style like yours are.this should fix the clearance issues
also im running spindles off of an 1812 (same as all the spreadframes 782s etc) they are much stronger than the others even with 1 inch spindles because they have more steel to them. I bent the 1 inch spindles off a 1450 with the 16in firestones and all those weights lol it ended up with some extreme chamber haha
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Al W. Both Matt G. and Wayne S. have made excellent suggestions. Be sure to follow up on what they've expressed. Once you get the 1650 up and running then you will love that ride. The only trouble I've had with mine is a drive belt shredded (OEM finally wore out last weekend) and a piece got wrapped in the electric pto clutch somehow. I now need to remove the hood , grille and engine sheetmetal to take care of that. One more thing.... Get a set of the taller seat bumpers from CCSpecialties.... Item #4 when you scroll down. They are literally back savers.
Enjoy the day everyone.
Enjoy the day everyone.
Glen,
Have been reading about your problems. My 122 used to do the same thing. I also messed with the timing with no luck. I even tried a different s/g with no luck. My battery was old, but always held a charge and always read a little over 12 volts. I went ahead and replaced it with the highest cold cranking amp battery that autozone had that would fit. I have never had a problem since. I guess the old battery just didn't have the guts anymore. May be something to consider?
Have been reading about your problems. My 122 used to do the same thing. I also messed with the timing with no luck. I even tried a different s/g with no luck. My battery was old, but always held a charge and always read a little over 12 volts. I went ahead and replaced it with the highest cold cranking amp battery that autozone had that would fit. I have never had a problem since. I guess the old battery just didn't have the guts anymore. May be something to consider?
Finally got it right after much tinkering and adjusting and tweaking and fine tuning (still not done yet) and a near electrical fire come to find out, the new yellow paint was inhibiting a couple grounds, my timing had to be retarded just a little, and the fuel needle in my carb was actually split and proceeded to sheer off when i was adjusting it (was loosening it when it broke!) luckily my old carb was a carter as well so i had parts. just a few midrange RPM fuel tweaks and the last of the parts and the yard will be mowed by a real tractor once again.
I was putting the 1250 back together today and noticed the head of a axle carrier bolt sticking out about 3/16". It was "tight" and the correct size bolt but wouldn't go in as it should. I decided to chase the threads and broke a tap off in the hole. The tap was apparently bad because I didn't put much pressure on it at all. I hadn't planned on replacing axle seals but now that this happened I decided to just do both sides. The tap broke on the right, "thick" side so it was no problem to get out once the carrier was removed. Anyway, I found a ton of black, gritty dirt on the inside bottom of the carrier where it had been trapped for years. I'm really glad the tap broke now and I was able to clean this crap out. The first pic is of what I found on the left side which was the same stuff. I had no idea there would be this much dirt and grime in the rearend. The rest of it is clean as a whistle. I had the axle seals but had to cut the carrier gaskets and now feel a lot better about the reassembly.
This is a pic of the right side. There was probably an ounce of this crap all crusted down in the hard to get to spot.
I'm now wondering about the other hydros I've worked on and overlooked this build up of stuff. I guess this will be added to the list of what to look for. Has anyone ever noticed this and is it fairly normal? I've worked this tractor for two years now but I did drain and replace all fluids before I started.
This is a pic of the right side. There was probably an ounce of this crap all crusted down in the hard to get to spot.
I'm now wondering about the other hydros I've worked on and overlooked this build up of stuff. I guess this will be added to the list of what to look for. Has anyone ever noticed this and is it fairly normal? I've worked this tractor for two years now but I did drain and replace all fluids before I started.
Thought I would try to tune the 48" deck today while it was off. There's always a surprise when you look at a new-to-you piece of older equipment up close for the first time, eh? There is more welding needed here than I had previously thought, but that's not the part that concerns me.
I found one damaged spindle, and, possibly prematurely, have ordered a replacement, but I'm a little mystified by what is happening with the spindle pulleys. According to the parts lookup, the manuals, and some quick and dirty research, the left blade pulley should be 4.62" OD (IH-489394-R2, 756-3008), the right blade pulley should be 4.86" OD (IH-481095-R92, 756-3026), and the center pulley should be 5" (IH-489395-R2, IH-489395-R3). Well, my center pulley is 5", but both of my left and right pulleys are 3.88".
From the notes I have, it looks like a parts counter guy convinced the previous owner that this was a smaller deck than it really is, possibly leading directly to the mounting of incorrectly sized pulleys. Is there any good reason why anyone would want to spin the two side blades faster without increasing the speed of the center blade?
Also, please take a look at these two pictures, and tell me if you see anything weird. I'm curious why I have a grease fitting on the idler pivot that is not mentioned in any literature that I can find, and I'm also concerned that perhaps the spring pin assemblies and the steel plates beneath them aren't supposed to be sandwiching the deck material, instead of being stacked on top of the deck. In my mind, it would make more sense for those plates to be under the deck and providing support. The way it is now has allowed the bolts to start pulling through the deck.
I found one damaged spindle, and, possibly prematurely, have ordered a replacement, but I'm a little mystified by what is happening with the spindle pulleys. According to the parts lookup, the manuals, and some quick and dirty research, the left blade pulley should be 4.62" OD (IH-489394-R2, 756-3008), the right blade pulley should be 4.86" OD (IH-481095-R92, 756-3026), and the center pulley should be 5" (IH-489395-R2, IH-489395-R3). Well, my center pulley is 5", but both of my left and right pulleys are 3.88".
From the notes I have, it looks like a parts counter guy convinced the previous owner that this was a smaller deck than it really is, possibly leading directly to the mounting of incorrectly sized pulleys. Is there any good reason why anyone would want to spin the two side blades faster without increasing the speed of the center blade?
Also, please take a look at these two pictures, and tell me if you see anything weird. I'm curious why I have a grease fitting on the idler pivot that is not mentioned in any literature that I can find, and I'm also concerned that perhaps the spring pin assemblies and the steel plates beneath them aren't supposed to be sandwiching the deck material, instead of being stacked on top of the deck. In my mind, it would make more sense for those plates to be under the deck and providing support. The way it is now has allowed the bolts to start pulling through the deck.
Mike, battery is fresh but Im planning to get a heftier one in the future, it doesnt have a whole lot on the cranking side unfortunately.
Zack, was it much trouble mounting the V61's on the standard 6.5" rim? I figured the extra width wouldnt allow them to fit worth a darn. Have any other pictures? E-Mail em if you prefer
Also, need to make a filler neck extension on my fuel tank for the cub since my hood doesnt open, ideas? I was thinking a piece of fuel tolerable hose or PVC with a cap and or friction fitting my current cap on it.
Zack, was it much trouble mounting the V61's on the standard 6.5" rim? I figured the extra width wouldnt allow them to fit worth a darn. Have any other pictures? E-Mail em if you prefer
Also, need to make a filler neck extension on my fuel tank for the cub since my hood doesnt open, ideas? I was thinking a piece of fuel tolerable hose or PVC with a cap and or friction fitting my current cap on it.
KCA - The outer pulleys may have been changed trying to get it to cut better ? My 50" skips on the slightest left turn off center line on the left side.
Yes on the factory zerk on the tensioner.
Have you got the "QA 38-42-48 Deck Operators Manual-3.pdf" ??
No backing plate ON TOP of deck.
Look Ma , A notched belt ...
Yes on the factory zerk on the tensioner.
Have you got the "QA 38-42-48 Deck Operators Manual-3.pdf" ??
No backing plate ON TOP of deck.
Look Ma , A notched belt ...
