Archive through August 01, 2007

[wheinsohn]

Nic B.
That PTO clutch has the wrong spring in it. It should have the earlier style with the bent ends. Get the right rebuild kit, rebuild it, adjust it properly per the instructions, and you should be good to go.

 

[mdomenic]

OK, all this talk about the PTO bearings got me wondering about the wire. I looked at my supply of used but good bearings and found two out of three did not have a wire nor a place for it. I always positioned the bearing flush with the end of the crank and locked it down tight with the collar, never had any trouble..

 

[tcbusch]

Bad news from the crank shop today. They said the crank is in bad shape. It had already been ground once and they would have to weld and turn it down to fix. It would cost about $150 to $200 to fix. I decided to wait on the crank until I get the block bored. Its possible that the crank in the loader will be in good enough shape that I can just use that one. Then I'll just wait for another crank to fall out of the sky into my lap.

 

[jkoenig]

Nic,

In the PTO engaging arm, IS THAT A BOLT? There should be a press fit OEM fiber button or a bolt in brass?/bronze? modified piece from a (former?) sponsor. No ferrous metals should be involved. That pic looks to me as if there is the remains of a hex head bolt.

Keep at it, we'll get it fixed.

 

[jpmoore]

I'm pretty new at this but here's my 2 cents on Nic's PTO clutch. I agree with Jim that what is on there now looks to be a bolt...can't quite tell but that bolt might be ?welded? to a flat washer to hold it on the other side of the arm? Also hopefully that bolt head hasn't done enough damage to the inner ends of those 3 'ears' to prevent them from staying in position once Nic gets a new thrust button. And for what it's worth...I'd highly recommend a brass wear button instead of the OEM fiber ones. I just recently rebuilt my PTO with a new thrust button and a new fiber wear button and the first time I disengaged the clutch the fiber button turned to dust.

Sure, the fiber button was only 5 or 6 bucks...but it was gone quicker than I could have burned a 5 dollar bill. The stud part of the fiber button that fits through the hole in the arm was still there, but the rest was gone--it didn't even snap off and go flying...just a small cloud of dust.

 

[digger]

Just a little tip for you guys still using the old fiber buttons.
Before you go to install them, make sure and chamfer the end of the button before tryin to push it in the engaging lever.
Also, Do not hit it with a BFH, it's best to use a small C clamp with something between the clamp and the button.
Just my 3 cents.

 

[jpmoore]

Charlie...I'm quitting, cold turkey! Yep, that's the last fiber button I'll ever use.

Ya know what's strange is I had your tips from before about being careful with it so I used a clamp and a small flat square of wood and slowly worked it in...ahh well...it's brass from now on for me.

 

[digger]

Jarrod,
It's cause you dint hold your mouth right the first time.

 

[mmasheris]

All loaded up for Little G on Sat.Twins have final decals Turbo Hydro Hope to blow some black smoke on the sled

 

[ccote]

Nic,

Your PTO looks exactly like the PTO in my 106 when I got it. The previous owner rebuilt it, and used a hardened steel bolt in place of the fiber button. I bought a new fiber button (wish I had known about the brass buttons at the time), a rebuild kit, a new thrust button, and new fingers. I put it all back together, and found that it wouldn't disengage. The bolt should work, since the PTO should only turn a few revs after it's disengaged, but in my case (and yours) it kept spinning, and the bolt ground the thrust button and the fingers down. It took a bit of fiddling to get the clutch to disengage, now it works great. Get the right parts, and follow the instructions in the FAQ, and you should be all set!