Archive through April 27, 2014

[rgreenly]

Jim...Wow, definately a strange circumstance there. I was hoping i had an easy fix for you, but that's not the case. I guess my effort falls in the catagory of "it's the thought that counts". It's gonna be interesting if and when you figure out. Good luck to you, maybe somebody else can come up with a senario.

 

[jharder]

Thanks Ron. I am thinking about throwing a fuel pump on it because that's about the only thing left I would think. Maybe the diaphragm is slowly coming apart? But maybe not.

 

[skliethermes]

More help on my 1250 reverse problem please - fluid, gasket, and filter have been replaced, and swapped in a working relief valve, but still no reverse (and swapped the forward valve over just to make sure). Forward's great, but I can't even get the lever to move more than about 2" below center. No obvious binds or bends on the linkage. Any ideas what to try next? (and thanks for the help so far!)

 

[dtanner]

Sarah Kliethermes

I would jack up the tractor and set it on two jack stands so the back wheels can spin freely. Then remove the linkage (rod) and turn the plate by hand from full forward to reverse with the brake off with engine running above idle. If you get any binding, the two pins could be broken in the swash plate . Find another pump would be your best cheapest bet after this test with no reverse.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - sounds like you're moving right along and even found another deck, geez, now that's some luck. You mentioned it didn't have the grease zerk for the idler arm. I see a hole drilled in the cover of the 1st deck so you can grease the arm. That's a first for me and a great idea. The grease zerk was a later addition to the bolt holding the spring, might have even been added by CCC after IH, not sure. I'd have to recommend everyone drill that hole in their cover to get at the zerk instead of having to remove the cover - course you need the new style bolt with the zerk fitting too.

You do need to find your T-handle rod for the snow thrower. She'll work without it but likely end up throwing snow back at ya.

Sounds like you're on your way with the belts you found to. Study up your deck manual so you can figure out how to level the deck up. You'll be cutting grass real soon.

Sarah K - I'm with ole Don T and his recommendations. Those pumps hardly ever fail but you'll find out soon using his testing method.

 

[bellwood]

If I cant find it, I'll fashion something attached to a battery drill for electronic rotation action!

I'll have to check the hole in the cover and see if it feels "original"... I did check the parts lists for the three decks they made and I have the 1968 - 1971 style (my runners are round bar) and dont see the cover with a hole in it, nor the new style bolt with zerk... Not sure if you saw, the front roller on that second deck was lathed from a block of wood

I did read the deck manual and also the user contributed comments on how they like the level the deck, hopefully I can get that squared away today

 

[dfrisk]

JIM H. - The topic of ethanol spiked gas comes up on another forum I lurk at about once a month. It's amazing how many additives people feel they have to add to their gas to make up for poor quality gas from the pump.

I'm lucky, and have 4-5 Kwik-Trip gas stations within 5-10 miles that sell a 91 octane "recreational fuel" that's got a stronger dose of detergents and NO ethanol. I run the same gas in my gas powered car too.

As International Harvester used to say in ALL their operator's manuals, "Buy clean fuel Keep it clean". Still sound advice 50-60 yrs after IH started printing it in all their manuals.

 

[bellwood]

So this may be a silly question but whats the best way to wash my tractor and thrower to get the grease and grime off? Is a diluted simple green solution an acceptable means? I was honestly expecting to find a "how do I clean my tractor" FAQ item up there...

Again, maybe its a silly question to begin with but as you've probably noticed, I love asking questions

 

[jclazar]

Brian E, I usually wash my International Cub Cadets 2-3 times a year with soap and water, depending on what happens after each use of the machine. I will use compressed air to dry. Then, about 4-5 times a year, I will use compressed air, and spray down the entire tractor with WD-40, and let sit in the sun for a hour or so. Next, I wipe down the tractor with clean, cloth rags. Wow, do you have a winner!

People look at me like I'm crazy. I give the ignition switch a liberal dose as well. I have never-never-ever had any problems with:

1. Corrosion and bad electrical connections or grounds.

2. Ignition switch failure

3. Rusty parts and stubborn components

When using WD-40 on my equipment. What's the old saying about an ounce of prevention? A clean machine is a great running machine!

True, you don't want to spray down a tractor and then go run it around in the dirt. This is basically how I keep my IH running great 365 days a year!

Side note: Thank you for the reply to my previous questions. I'm not sure what I will have when the engine comes out of the 1450 for the cradle modification. I'll know more by then....

 

[meross]

Has anyone used an IH CC 108 to pull a subsoiler? I want to use my tractor to pull a subsoiler through sandy soil to a depth of at least 18 inches. Unfortunatly the subsoilers I have looked at require 20hp. I was wondering if any one has used a 108 to do this?