OK tougher ? then how easy (or can It be done) is to rebuild the 105's mule then? 1)Cut welds off rod. 2)get new rod 3)drill holes for pins 4)buy (ouch) new arm 5) install arms 6) weld new rod in 7) mount and go......
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Archive through April 27, 2009
- Thread starter jcleer
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Bruce :
I'll wait 4 minutes next time
I'm betting William's uncle is braver than I am if it's the ACR spring (I don't start anything up with my fingers stuck inside it, you end up with nicknames that way).. I think he was pushing on the points
I'll wait 4 minutes next time
I'm betting William's uncle is braver than I am if it's the ACR spring (I don't start anything up with my fingers stuck inside it, you end up with nicknames that way).. I think he was pushing on the points
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
Okay guys, I've been out of town the last couple of days. Went to the St. Louis Zoo to visit with family... actually did meet up with some real family members there.
Anyway, I see what you mean now by the pic Brendan posted about the arms on the box blade not moving. So Richard's comment about the top link only changing the lift height now makes sense to me.
Jerry B,
Sorry I couldn't make it out to help plow. Looks like rain all week now too. Did you end up using the rented tiller to work up the garden plot? Maybe I can come out to play in a couple of weeks...
Oh, I did pick up the back blade Friday. There was no adapter in sight. But I made sure to get the ripper and side plates though. I'm surprised that there is no bolt on cutting edge. I'll let you know how it works and you'll know where it's at when you're ready for it.
Keith
Anyway, I see what you mean now by the pic Brendan posted about the arms on the box blade not moving. So Richard's comment about the top link only changing the lift height now makes sense to me.
Jerry B,
Sorry I couldn't make it out to help plow. Looks like rain all week now too. Did you end up using the rented tiller to work up the garden plot? Maybe I can come out to play in a couple of weeks...
Oh, I did pick up the back blade Friday. There was no adapter in sight. But I made sure to get the ripper and side plates though. I'm surprised that there is no bolt on cutting edge. I'll let you know how it works and you'll know where it's at when you're ready for it.
Keith
Joe, yes the mule drive can be rebuilt. I had to rebuild mine. The right pulley (on the left in this photo) with the tension spring had worn on the rod so much that it was tilting and throwing the belt. I had to sister a piece of scrap metal on it and replace the rod.
Brendan, Mike, anyone, looking to add a custom rear exhaust. Here's some food for thought from the archives. This one was done by Doug Barnett back in 2003. He didn't need to be able to mount a mower deck on his loader tractor so he ran it right down the middle. Also he installed a wide frame axle on it and modified the spindles.
KRAIG - Yep, I remember doing something similar to the mule drive on the 72 also years ago.
You know You should really BORROW Art's welder and practice welding. Not much You can't fix on these old Cub Cadets if You have a welder. I'd loan You My little Miller MIG but it's almost out of gas, I called the welding shop today and a new bottle of gas was $58.83 incl. tax, an "S" size bottle, 7" dia x 4 ft tall. Last bottle about 4 yrs ago was something like $24. I think I'm changing gas suppliers. I heard their pricing got totally SILLY a year ago but I won't pay that much. I've got four tanks in the shop, the CO2/Argon on the MIG, straight Argon on the TIG, and oxygen & acetylene tanks on the torch. All through the same place.
HOW much is everybody else paying for welding gases? I may switch back to ARC welding and use up some of My old rod!
You know You should really BORROW Art's welder and practice welding. Not much You can't fix on these old Cub Cadets if You have a welder. I'd loan You My little Miller MIG but it's almost out of gas, I called the welding shop today and a new bottle of gas was $58.83 incl. tax, an "S" size bottle, 7" dia x 4 ft tall. Last bottle about 4 yrs ago was something like $24. I think I'm changing gas suppliers. I heard their pricing got totally SILLY a year ago but I won't pay that much. I've got four tanks in the shop, the CO2/Argon on the MIG, straight Argon on the TIG, and oxygen & acetylene tanks on the torch. All through the same place.
HOW much is everybody else paying for welding gases? I may switch back to ARC welding and use up some of My old rod!
Dennis I just use co2 on my wire machine. Has always worked ok. 20 pound bottle fill is about $18 here. Thats one reason I stick with soda pop gas! My o/a tanks havew not been refilled after I moved and everyone else is not using my shop anymore.
Denny, yes I need to learn how to weld. The welding on my mule drive was done by my father-in-law with an old stick welder.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
Amen on Kraig needing a welder in his shop...
I'm paying about $55.00 for my 99%Argon on the TIG (120 Cu F). IIRC the last tank of 75/25 for the MIG was about $48.00. The real rip is the Acetylene and OXY - (80 and 60 C.F.) which used to cost $11.00 and $7.00 and now run about $36.00 and $19.00 last time..
Out in the shop building a drain pig to drag with the 129....stay tuned, pictures to follow tomorrow (or when it quits raining).
Amen on Kraig needing a welder in his shop...
I'm paying about $55.00 for my 99%Argon on the TIG (120 Cu F). IIRC the last tank of 75/25 for the MIG was about $48.00. The real rip is the Acetylene and OXY - (80 and 60 C.F.) which used to cost $11.00 and $7.00 and now run about $36.00 and $19.00 last time..
Out in the shop building a drain pig to drag with the 129....stay tuned, pictures to follow tomorrow (or when it quits raining).
Just trying to mull over some future plans for my cubs regarding tires. The 129 has the very lightly ribbed wide turf tires up front, which works well when I use it as a mower in the summer. In the winter, I attach my QA-42A snowblower, but even with all the weight of the blower up front, they tend to ride on top of the snow, rather than dig in and tend to steer very poorly. One option I'm considering is putting some tri-ribs on a set of narrow rims, and just change them out when the seasons change. Another option is to find a compromise tread for the rims that are on the tractor now that would work okay for both mowing and moving snow. I am also open to other suggestions as well (ag treads, ATV tires, etc)
Kendell, drain pig cam? Sounds like good fun.
Got the new 70 running today, bad connection on key switch resulting in no spark. Fast and idle settings need adjusted on carb but for sitting 3+ years in a shed it fired right up and sounded real good. now to study up on the shifting forks and tranny problem.
Got the new 70 running today, bad connection on key switch resulting in no spark. Fast and idle settings need adjusted on carb but for sitting 3+ years in a shed it fired right up and sounded real good. now to study up on the shifting forks and tranny problem.
Andrew, check here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
junderwood
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- John Underwood
Well, guys gas prices have gone through the roof. I paid $100 to fill my acetelyne last year. That's an 125 cu bottle. I just bought a 75/25 40cu cylinder to have a portable cylinder for my small welder and it was $43 fill and $120+/- for the cylinder. So hold on to your shorts when you go get gas.
Well, actually my F-I-L only welded up the pulley bracket and rod. The small angle iron welded onto the front of it was welded on loooong ago by a neighbor of my parents, a guy named Leon Riemenschneider (Small detour down memory lane: Leon always had gear drive Wheel Horse GTs. After his 3, [older than me], sons chided me for having a HP robbing hydrostatic GT I challenged them to a tug of war; my "underpowered" [they claimed the hydro robbed at least a couple HP] 12hp hydro Cub Cadet against their 12hp gear drive Wheel Horse, they balked at the idea and not another word was said about HP robbing hydrostatic transmissions.
) So anyway, first Leon had to, ummm, straighten it then he welded the angle on. The angle iron was to keep the front of the mule drive from bending, again, should a certain stupid 9 or 10 year old kid run into something, again..... 'nuff said.
lpalma
Well-known member
Brian Johnson,
PBR's
I scraped the paint off the block where the sg bracket/ ground wire from the battery mounts.I also scraped off the s/g where it mounts to the s/g bracket. The voltage reg has a ground wire lead on it that runs to the wire harness and goes to the battery ground. I even ran a direct lead from the vr to the battery and I still have no output.
PBR's
I scraped the paint off the block where the sg bracket/ ground wire from the battery mounts.I also scraped off the s/g where it mounts to the s/g bracket. The voltage reg has a ground wire lead on it that runs to the wire harness and goes to the battery ground. I even ran a direct lead from the vr to the battery and I still have no output.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jesse E.-
The M18 is basically a KT17 with better lubrication and magneto ignition. The PTO clutch and carb will fit. You'd have to add a relay to make the wiring work, but it's very simple.
The M18 is basically a KT17 with better lubrication and magneto ignition. The PTO clutch and carb will fit. You'd have to add a relay to make the wiring work, but it's very simple.
